1973olds98

in was thinkin of putting a hei distributer set up on my 455,,,I was lookin at ebay and they have brand new ones for around 50.oo plus 12.99 shipping,,comes with a 3 year warranty and looks to be high qualtiy,,,,check link and give me your thoughts


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OLDSM...Q5fAccessories

BLUE72RAGTOP

I considered this as well. Anyone else? I bought a different one quite a while ago and planning to work on it this week. Going to try it on the 350 before I replace it with the 455. Keep us updated

1973olds98

I talked 2 them today the seller on ebay and he pretty much guaranteed me satisfaction on one of there units...I checked autozone and there prices were over 250-300 for one..

72 cutlass455

As long as it is a stock intake manifold it should be ok. Some after market intakes have a hump in the back that prevents the hei unit from seating.

Olds64

The most notorious intake for this is the Edelbrock O4B. It won't fit an HEI distributor.

citcapp

Check out where it is manufactured. A lot ot that stuff is chinse junk and the drive gears strip out, parts cannot be bought to fix & replace, etc. This keeps coming up in a lot of forums across the internet. I understand you are better off going to a junk yard and pulling a HEI distributor off of a later model Olds, cheaper to. Or go with the one of the popular conversion kits. There is a reason there only 50 bucks as compaired to quality piece at 200 and above dollars

1973olds98

I will check into getting one off a later model olds...It is the stock manifold and it camed from the factory with points..

MX442

Don't do it. I've heard some horror stories on these cheap units. You are asking for trouble!

Get a used GM unit and rebuild it yourself. It will be a great learning experience. Check RobbMC for a rebuilt core, shipped for $31. Add MSD HEI kit, or buy stock replacement pickup, cap, and module from NAPA.

1973olds98

yeah,,i did some research and there is alot of negative things about them,,,,Who is Robbmc

1964f-85

I have a stock Olds HEI, complete cap to drive gear. I'll let it go cheap ($50.00?). Located in Canton Ohio area.
e mail me at screnzenbrink@ppigraphics.com if you are iterested.

Scott

MX442

He was selling rebuilt HEI cores. Couldn't find them on his website now.
http://www.robbmcperformance.com/index.html

Allan R

HEI is a more reliable system than regular points and coil. That being said, if you change yours over re read the manufacturers statement that they do not guarantee fitment of the air cleaner to let the air can fit properly. Most conventional cars without HEI do not have the offset at the back of the air cleaner. I know because I changed over to HEI too. You have to either :modify your air cleaner, get a smaller one, or get one from an HEI car that will fit. It won't be stock anymore; but it does start and run better..... Good luck with your project.

redoldsman

When I put the HEI (from a junkyard) on my 72 Cutlass years ago, I got a plastic spacer to go between the carb and the air cleaner. I think I got it at Supershops but I imagine Summit or somebody else has them. I had to use some of that flex stuff for the stovepipe. It is questionable whether you get any more hp but it sure starts better and your plugs last a lot longer. You will need to regap the plugs. If I were doing ti today, I would just go with a Pertronix conversion and not have to screw with the air cleaner. As far as the $50 distributor, if it sounds to cheap, it is. I learned a long time ago you get what you pay for. Good luck and let us know if we can help. Hopefully we have.

bigoldscruiser

Some years back I got an HEI from the bone yard to use on my '66 425. I couldn't get it to run for sh-- so I took it to have it checked. They had to rebuild it and re-curve it to match what I needed. It cost over $200 back then. I now run a Pertronix and it is very satisfactory. I did have to slightly modify my air cleaner bottom for clearance. Just a small dent that couldn't be seen when it was installed.

1973olds98

Who sells the pertronix unit

bigoldscruiser

www.cbsperformance.com They have an ad in JWO every month.

1973olds98

Man those are some high dollar units..I just dont know what to do at this point..

Olds64

I used this distributor. I am happy with it.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-850006/

Pertronix is a conversion kit to change a points style distributor to a variable reluctance unit.

bullet1

what plug# and gap should i use for my 68 400 when switching to hei?also what should the timing be set at also?
thanks

MX442

NGK XR-5. .045"

1 light spring, 1 medium spring. Start with 34 total mechanical advance, and go up or down 1 degree at a time from there. Don't worry about initial, but it will be about 18-20 depending on idle rpm and carb tune.

Olds64

Set your timing to the factory spec.

bullet1

at what rpm are you looking for total advance at 2500rpm?
thanks

MX442

I don't know the answer to that. But to compare, I have one light spring and one medium spring in right now and all in is at 2200. I was thinking about trying two medium springs to see how much higher it moves the curve, and if it makes much of a difference or not.

What are your build specs? How does it run? I wouldn't mind comparing notes, I've been trying to work out all the bugs on mine for a while. I'm getting there. I've got a low rpm bog that I can't seem to get rid of. I'm going to swap carbs next.

Olds64, factory timing specs for initial won't work on an HEI conversion. For example, an HEI dizzy with 15 degrees of mechanical advance needs higher initial than the factory spec. Because the stock dizzy probably has 25 degrees of mechanical advance, therefore an initial of 10 would about right.

When my balancer was off of the engine, I measured and painted a line at 35* BTDC. Anytime I check my timing, I run it to a speed at full mechanical advance and check that I'm about 34-35 degrees total. I check it with and without the dial back feature on my timing light to make sure it is accurate.

Redog

Na I wouldn't buy one from eBay.

When I put the HEI in my Delta with the 1968 350, I went to Advanced Auto and bought a HEI dis for a 1979 Cutlass with the 260 (I think it was a 260)

Anyway the part number is the same for all years and motors that had the vacuum can on them (because it is the same)

bullet1

where did you pick springs up at?i ordered new vacuum advance unit mine was shot ordered mr gasket one with new shims and springs going to give it a try.not sure what has been done to mine it has torker intake on it seems to run ok mine had a small stumble with 75 olds carb on.i installed original number carb on runs good now no stumble kind of slow to pick up rpm i think that is because of torker intake.factory converter the way it feels.idles kind of rough but may because of points ignition and older wires and plugs.i have a 68 455 to rebuild that i may put in next spring just trying to get everything in order for rest of this year getting shorter by the day.we have a cruise for cure first weekend in october usually have 100+ cars for cruise like to get her tip top for that day.then its about the end for this year.
thanks

MX442

Just get a cheap recurve kit and use the springs. Don't use the weights. Napa or schucks autozone etc.

Eightupman

You cannot set the timing to factory spec if you switch to HEI. the springs and weights are totally different within the HEI unit changing the timing curve completely. It must be set at 18*-20* or it will run like Kaa Kaa. I speak from first hand experience on my 72. Left it at 8* and it was a dog. Moved it to 18* and it was a whole different car.

Additionally if you can find a 1973-76 Cutlass air cleaner, it will have the notch at the back of it to accomidate the HEI bulk if that particular car was fitted with the HEI option. Will still give the factory appearance, and all your hoses and heat risers will be the same.

I had thought about the Petronix for a little while, but I'm just going to stick with a nice new or rebuild HEI when I get my motor done.

John