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Sorry I am just now responding to this post but I was out of town last week and didn't see them all. I would recommend keeping the SNIPER ECT sensor close to the front of the engine near the thermostat since that's where the best temps are for the coolant exchanges that are happening between your engine and the radiator. Accurate ECT readings are critical for the proper fuel delivery and calibration. The best place to tap coolant temps is always in the cylinder head but many cylinder heads don't have the ports. Additionally, you want to keep all the critical signals that the SNIPER depends on like the ECT, TPS, IAC, and O2 away from sources of RFI or EMI. In this case, that means---keep them away from the distributor and the ignition coil. You will fight to tune the system if you have those interferences. If you are using the Hyperspark SNIPER components...those are way better at keeping the RFI/EMI to a minimum. Just some things to think about. Sensor and cable routing is critical to an EFI system like the SNIPER that works and works well!
Thanks for the info,
I decided to leave the ECT up front, I have all Holley product...Holley Sniper, Hyperspark, Coil, the recommended MSD Spark pkug wires and the Holley CD Box.
One thing I was thinking was to mount the coil and CD box on the firewall( to the left of the Distributor) above the heater box.
442Dude- Hmmm not entirely true on your assessment of the ECT.
If it goes from 40*-160*, whether it’s correct or not, it’s the range that is most important, not the actual temp itself. You can rescale all the temp tables to reflect whatever range you’re seeing.
I decided to leave the ECT up front, I have all Holley product...Holley Sniper, Hyperspark, Coil, the recommended MSD Spark pkug wires and the Holley CD Box.
One thing I was thinking was to mount the coil and CD box on the firewall( to the left of the Distributor) above the heater box.
Hopefully there is no serious RFI/EMI there.
That will work fine. I mounted my coil on the firewall and the CD box behind the right headlights. Everything is neat and tidy there. Keep us posted on the great work.
Just read this whole thread haha. Going to be buying a lowish miles 1968 Delmont 88 with a 455 and am looking at finding someone to freshen up the motor and possibly rebuild to something more powerful. How did this turn out??
Just read this whole thread haha. Going to be buying a lowish miles 1968 Delmont 88 with a 455 and am looking at finding someone to freshen up the motor and possibly rebuild to something more powerful. How did this turn out??
Turn out is still pending, progress on the car slowed down has my kids and my wife are all sick with the flu...son is a bit worse with pneumonia, So tending to them and busy making sure they have everything they need. It's been almost a few weeks now since I actually got anything with substance completed on the car.
I did get my Powermaster 9510 starter in and a bit more wiring done after the last post.
Should be able to post a bit more innthe coming days.
I got the Powermaster 9510 Mini Starter installed and wired....I am just waiting for a couple spark plug insulation boots which I am going to put around the wires at the starter end.....should keep out most of the heat off the wires from the exhaust.
Installed the Pypes DOF1OS Downpipes which are made to bolt up to the stock manifolds.
Also welded in a 02 bung and installed the 02 sensor for the Sniper 8 inches from collector per instrucions .
Got the Distributor vaccum line and transmission vaccum line and PCV line run to the carb. Got the fuel line run from mechanical pump to the carb with an inline fuel filter.
Found a battery tube locally from a late 70s GM car.... cut and welded the bracket to make it work.
All the wiring is done for the Holley Sniper. I decided to run the Coil + wire from the painless harness to a relay, which now sends 12v power on run and crank to the Hyperspark, Holley CDI, Sniper and single Coil+ wire that is being used on the non hyperspark distributor. I also ran the ground and battery from the Sniper and CDI box through a grommet behind the Coil and through a couple empty slots in my fuse panel, these will be wired directly to the battery to hopefully keep any interference away. I will be tyding up the wires soon on the underside of the fender.
I have a question in regards to the coolant system during the engine break in. Is it okay to run Distilled water through it for the 20 mins or should I actually use coolant?
Also I read some people breaking in there motors in 10 minute intervals, is this okay or should it be done straight for 20-25 mins while keeping the RPMS between 2500-3000?
Thanks guys and Happy Halloween!
Last edited by Big Dawg; Oct 31, 2024 at 07:31 PM.
I've seen the 10 min intervals recommended and it makes sense because of the heat generated. If running constant you need to keep the temps down with a fan blowing into the radiator and/or a continuous slow water flow. $.02
I've seen the 10 min intervals recommended and it makes sense because of the heat generated. If running constant you need to keep the temps down with a fan blowing into the radiator and/or a continuous slow water flow. $.02
Okay the 10 min Intervals was what I was thinking of doing as it gives me time to make sure everything is operating properly. I was going to temporarily have my electric fans hooked up and have a toggle switch on the ground wires, so when the coolant temp started getting up there I would activate them.
Now I am just wondering if it is okay to run just Distilled water for break in
So Everytime I think I'm almost ready to fire up the motor little things pop up that need to be taken care of.
All of the wiring is complete now and my standalone fuse box and relays are ll setup and wired up to the Sniper triggers for the Fans and fuel pump relay. I also ran the Holley Sniper EFI and the CDI box through the fuse box as well with 30 amp Fuses the same as the inline fuse that was on the original wiring for the Holley....the CDI box didn't have a fuse of any kind and isn't even mentioned in the instruction manuals, but just to be on the safe side I installed one anyways.
I installed the electric fans and radiator as well. I also ran a Transmission Cooler inline with stock cooler through the rad hookups...hopefully the TH400 stays cool on those summer days. I will hook them up to the battery for the break in period on a ground switch, once the motor is broken in I will hook them into the fuse box to run with the Holley.
The hydroboost is all plumbed as well amd the power steering belt is on for good now as well.
I had been looking for a set of nice Aluminum Valve Covers for awhile, either M/T or any others. I had reached out to DAVE442 and he had a friend with a set of Brand New Aluminum Edelbrock Valve Covers. We worked out a deal and got them last week, I ordered a set of Cometic Valve Cover gaskets as well. They will be bolted down with all new Milodon stud kit.
Tomorrow I will be finally getting the coolant in and than hopefully fingers crossed firing up the car this weekend.
Last edited by Big Dawg; Nov 19, 2024 at 11:46 PM.
Yo!!! How are things? I’m considering going to a sniper system for my 68 Delmont. I’ve got a 2
barrel carb that needs a rebuild and wondering if should just make the switch.