Yeah that's the thing....I really didn't know i was going efi....is it hard to modify the intake? I could still do the modification....that's alot of possible HP loss.

I am going to see what's out there for a square bore intake.

When you say "bought Qjet version", do you mean the Holley Sniper?

 

So would a Edelbrock Torker 2730 or Performer Intake 2151 perform better than the stock intake manifold either way...EFI or Carb setup?

 

Yes Sniper Qjet.
And yes I’d replace the stock intake with a 2151 and not look back.

 

Okay thanks, yeah i ended up getting the sniper off of friend that took it off his car as he went back to carb. I had originally planned for carbed and even bought a proper edelbrock fuel regulator to change the electric pump pressure to carb psi.

I'm going to go for the 2151 there quite a few on ebay. Once I go 2151 I wouldn't even need to go with a spacer would I?

Thanks......that would have been bad to lose HP.

Thanks Cutlassefi

 

"Here's your sign" - B. Ingvall

 

I went through some of the similiar processes that you are going through on my latest restoration. You can follow them in my thread in my email signature if desired. My engine builder (Mark Jones- VORTECPRO) built me a fantastic 455 engine with over 560 HP and I started out with a Q-Jet carb for dyno testing, then switched to the SNIPER Q-Jet EFI setup (which I hated for many reasons), then I swapped out the W-30 OEM aluminum intake for the Edelbrock 2151 Performer intake and the SNIPER 4150 model with the Hyperspark Ignition components. The car runs literally amazing now with those parts after I got it all tuned with my laptop. I wanted to continue the use of my OAI Ram Air hood, so I had my intake carb pad cut down a bit and I also cut down the center divider on the dual plane intake in order to share the air/fuel charges between the banks for my SNIPER. It runs super good. You won't be disappointed if it's done right. No adapters of any kind are needed for what you are planning. Good luck!

 

Thanks for the kind words......I have subscribed and saved your build thread and will be reading all of it.

 

I wouldn't go that far honestly.as this being a sign.

My friend thought something was wrong with his Sniper unit so he took it all off and sent it back to Holley for a once over which was covered under the warranty. During this time he installed his carb back on the motor. When Holley said everything checked out with the unit. He did more research and going onto the Holley Forum, he narrowed it down to the MSD box. He was getting tonnes of electrical interference from his MSD box being mounted on the firewall near the Holley Sniper and and Hyperspark. He was told that he would need to remount the MSD box either into the cabin or near the front of the engine bay. He didn't want to do that as the firewall and engine bay was flawless and would require him to fix the holes and repaint.

So at the end of the day, he decided to sell it to me and I couldn't refuse. I will not be running any MSD or anything similar. I am sure everything will be fine....just alot of tuning.

 

If you don’t use the timing control you’re missing the boat, big time.

 

Be careful about firing up your fresh engine with an EFI set up. very rarely will they fire right up and you be able to get a 20 minute 2,000 rpm right off the bat. this is for flat tappet.

I always use a good known carb for the initial break in..then switch after.

you want it to fire off instantly

 

^^^^^^^^

 

Thank you

 

thank you.

 

I do have a Holley 556-551 CD Box I purchased separately after I had picked up the Sniper. It totally slipped my mind. It does let you control your timing.


https://i.postimg.cc/4y28cq8j/20241005-134133.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/pLF090K1/20241005-134158.jpg

 

I purchased a Edelbrock Performer 2151 Intake, should be here anyday. I also got the proper Edelbrock Manifold gaskets, the cast iron Heat Crossover block offs for the heads, bolt kit for the intake and an adapter plate and gaskets....almost forgot got a new Spectre 5727 oil Dipstick and tube.

Have my quadrajet ready as well......thanks for the heads up CANADIANOLDS.....the last thing I need is my engine to get messed up during break in.

I pulled the stock intake manifold off today and prepped it for the Edelbrock, and boy was it a heavy intake for me to pull off...and i am not a small guy, 6'5- 260lb. I have re-installed my mechanical fuel pump. Hopefully this weekend I can pull the holley Hyperspark Distributor and install the stock distributor back in. While the distributor is out I will prime the oil again......I have a mechanical oil Pressure gauge setup as well.

Oh almost forgot, I installed a shifter cable into my retrofitted Dual Gate setup....works flawlessly and shifts in every gear......once I fire the car up I will tweak where necessary.

https://postimg.cc/gallery/zGPZtRp

https://postimg.cc/rK135gRW

 

Hi when i was cleaning up the intake mounting surface on the heads I noticed quite a bit of pitting. I don't know of that's a bit much or not for sealing. I am going to put some JB weld on all 4 of them and let them cure a day or two and sand them down with about 150 - 200 grit.

https://postimg.cc/gallery/dK4mGdR

Also is there an easy way to remove this heater connection off the back side of the manifold? Or is there a replacement NPT/ barb style part I can get that would work in the Edelbrock 2151 intake?

https://postimg.cc/gallery/74H0QLx

 

Another important question I had was, what type of Break In oil or additive did you use or do you recommend for breaking in of the motor for the first time. As you had assumed I do have flat tappet cam.

I have been looking at the Lucas Hot Rod & Classic 10w30 oil as it is high in ZDDP. They come in 5 Quart jugs. Was thinking of getting 2 jugs . Basically after the inital break In I would do an oil change and Filter change and put in more of the same Lucas zddp.

Do any of you buy regular 10w30 and just add a 12 ounce bottle of ZDDP additive to the motor oil for break in?

My engine builder did put regular Pennzoil 10/30 and a bottle of Comp Cam break in additive and 1 Quart of Comp Cam 10w30 break in oil Zddp enhanced, today i drained all the oil out of the car as I just wanted Peace of mind to be 110% sure, that I was doing the correct steps. I kept the oil in a 5 Quart jugs...didn't dispose of it.

Any help or suggestions here will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks A.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/l...EaAlB6EALw_wcB

You need 6 qts per oil change. Depending on which headers you're running, the filter is a Wix 51049

Once done with the break in, I'd step up to a 15w-40

 

Just use VR1 20-50 for break-in and keep using it afterwards.

 

Thanks!! I ordered 3 of these off Rockauto and went with the Vr1 oil.

 

Ordered 12qts of this oil...thanks!!!

 

I was reading some posts and see that the following heater control valve works for the manual AC cars....it works opposite of how the OEM worked. So vaccum on and the heater control closes off the coolant, when the vaccum is off it let's the coolant flow. If I was to use this on a non AC car and leave the vaccum off and open to atmosphere would the valve not work as if I had the pipe thread for the heater core flow?

 

Use straight Hod Rod and classic 10W30 for break in..don’t need any extra additive. Leave that first oil in for 500 miles but change out filter right after the initial 20min.

I use the HR& classic for the first couple of oil changes. Customers can run reduced zinc after but should be at least 1,000 plus ppm.

fill your carb bowl with fuel , don’t crank it with a dry fuel pump

 

thank you.....ordered the HR......thanks for the chart!

 

So the other night I had spread some JBweld on the coolant crossover port surfaces as there was quite a bit of pitting. Waited a couple days and carefully block sanded them down today and wow I am amazed how good the JB weld worked. I cleaned up the entire surface on both sides and what a difference!

Pickimg up the intake tmrw morning along with bolts and heat port blockoffs...getting closer.....


https://postimg.cc/gallery/tZt4Tmz

 

Lotd of good info. Lucas and others actually have a dedicated break in oil, very high ZDDP, even higher than their Hot Rod oil. I used the 20W50 Lucas break in oil with a known good carb for cam break in. Still had a dying fuel pump and a popped fuse for my fan controller that caused me to stop half way on the cam break in. Honestly, I should gone with an aftermarket harness for this old car with EFI, it isn't designed for the increased amperage. I have many electrical issues since. I installed a MSD noise capacitor on the fire wall. Whether it helps or not but can't hurt and is a simple install. The out of box tune was horrible on my Terminator X Max. I am still fighting cold idle issues but Cutlassefi's tune was so much better than stock, which wouldn't run anything properly. Good luck on the break in and tune of the Sniper EFI.

 

Thank you, as CanadianOlds mentioned earlier to be careful trying to break in with a EFI setup that hasnt been setup yet, I'll be doing a break in with a carb and mechanical fuel pump. Once the break in is done I will e switching everything over to the Holley Sniper setup and Electric Fuel pump.

 

I picked up the Performer Intake yesterday and dropped it off at reputable engine shop and had them pit through there jet wash and clean it up.

I picked it up a removed all the brass fittings that were on there and cleaned up a bit more and cleaned the mating surface and Sprayed it with some Cast Aluminum Engine Enamel. Came out pretty nice.

I have the exhaust passage plugs coming on Friday and will install everything this weekend. I have a question in regards to the coolant crossover ports on the rear left and right of the Intake. Does it matter what side on the rear of the intake the Heat control valve is placed??



One fitting looks to be 1/2 and the other looks like 3/4. I ordered a Heater control Valve for it which I am hoping I can use instead of the pipe that is in my factory Intake( i couldn't get it out of the factory Intake).

After reading up on the 74601 heater control valve on the forum. It opens without vaccum to let the coolant flow to heater core , and closes once vaccum is applied. As I don't have A/C I am going to leave the vaccum line off so that way the valve can just be open.

Here is pictures of the Intake after some paint....I have the thermostat housing just loosely placed and as well as the coolant sensors for the holley and dakota digital setup, I Sprayed the brass fittings as well.



Can't believe how much lighter this Intake is, probably 1/3 of the weight of the stock intake manifold

 

Either of the threaded ports on the rear corners would work. i didn't realize they were different sizes - they look the same in your pictures.

 

Hey guys,

Have a quick question in regards to the Coolant crossover ports on the intake manifold. Does it matter where i place the coolant temp sensors, Port 1, 2 or 3? Why i ask is i would like to keep the wiring tucked and out of the way as possible. The holley has a sensor and also my Dakota Digital has a sensor. I would like to use port 1 & 3....and block off Port 2.

 

I dont know that it matters. I used #2 for my ECT sensor for the SNIPER and #3 for my Dakota Digital cluster. You still need the DD oil pressure sender up near location #3 anyway so there will be other wires there.

 

Sounds good.....I wanted to run my Oil and Coolant temp sensor together up the drivers side of the intake and my Sniper sensor to port 1.....just wanted to not run any wires down the top passenger side of the intake.

Thanks 'Dude'

 

The heater control valve should go on the rear passenger side.
Given your choices, I'd keep the temperature sensor up near the thermostat housing, near the factory position in #3.
I wouldn't run a temperature sensor in the rear driver side port as I don't think you'd get an reading that was as meaningful as the one by the thermostat will be.

 

I got the Edelbrock Exhaust Crossover plugs fitted and installed.





Installed the new 12pt Bolts i got from Olds Rocket Parts. Really nice quality.




The intake is installed with Edelbrock gaskets.


Carb is mounted and tightened down.


Quick question regarding the power steering pump....is it able to be clocked to the right? It seems to be leaning too much to the left....I feel fluid will be leaking for sure




Slow and steady.....tmrw i will be back at it for a few hours....gotta figure out the clocking of the power steering pump.

Thanks

 

The Power Steering pump positioning should look more like mine in the pic I posted above. I'm guessing a longer belt would do the trick and allow the pump to push outward a bit towards the inner fender well. The pump does not really have a way to "clock" in a different orientation. Hopefully that makes sense.

 

^ correct !
Pump bolts up only one way and adjust according to belt size.
Put a larger belt on and adjust accordingly.

 

Your belt may stretch, mine always do quite a bit. I even had a serpentine belt stretch enough that it started squealing. The reservoir won't need to be full enough to cause an issue with leaking out.

 

Did some measurements and bought a 45.5" AC Delco v-belt, fit perfect. Thanks for the help guys.

 

Great work. You will be fine now that you have the right belt. I've found that if you buy the good belts---any stretch is negligible. It's the cheap belts that stretch, squeal, and break prematurely.

 

Sorry I am just now responding to this post but I was out of town last week and didn't see them all. I would recommend keeping the SNIPER ECT sensor close to the front of the engine near the thermostat since that's where the best temps are for the coolant exchanges that are happening between your engine and the radiator. Accurate ECT readings are critical for the proper fuel delivery and calibration. The best place to tap coolant temps is always in the cylinder head but many cylinder heads don't have the ports. Additionally, you want to keep all the critical signals that the SNIPER depends on like the ECT, TPS, IAC, and O2 away from sources of RFI or EMI. In this case, that means---keep them away from the distributor and the ignition coil. You will fight to tune the system if you have those interferences. If you are using the Hyperspark SNIPER components...those are way better at keeping the RFI/EMI to a minimum. Also invest in the Holley recommended MSD spark plug wires that reduce RFI/EMI. Just some things to think about. Sensor and cable routing is critical to an EFI system like the SNIPER that works and works well!