gasket and torqueing order
#1
gasket and torqueing order
i purchased an alluminum edelbrock performer intake manifold. summit also sold me on the idea i needed an intake manifold gasket for this. they said something about it being aluminum and this aftermarket manifold might work better with this other gasket when i'm using the valley pan. i just bought a vally pan as well.
so.. i use the vally pan AND this intake manifold gasket both?
another question. i'm putting the heads back on and want to know if anyone had the order you torque the bolts back into the heads/block?
i also want to do away with the non funtioning cruise control contraption thats fixed to the throttle cable area. is there anything/ suggestions i need to know about doing away with this.
i also want to do away with all the EGR stuff and just add breathers to the valve covers. i just purchased the little covers for the carb from summit and hope that takes care of any open ends left from eliminating the emmisions stuff.
so.. i use the vally pan AND this intake manifold gasket both?
another question. i'm putting the heads back on and want to know if anyone had the order you torque the bolts back into the heads/block?
i also want to do away with the non funtioning cruise control contraption thats fixed to the throttle cable area. is there anything/ suggestions i need to know about doing away with this.
i also want to do away with all the EGR stuff and just add breathers to the valve covers. i just purchased the little covers for the carb from summit and hope that takes care of any open ends left from eliminating the emmisions stuff.
#2
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_.../3000/3711.pdf
Edelbrock has a recommended gasket for all of their intakes, but I just use the Turkey tray and a bunch of sealant.
If you end up using a new tray, you will have to cut an opening for the exhaust port underneath the carb.
Edelbrock has a recommended gasket for all of their intakes, but I just use the Turkey tray and a bunch of sealant.
If you end up using a new tray, you will have to cut an opening for the exhaust port underneath the carb.
Last edited by J-(Chicago); October 25th, 2007 at 12:49 PM.
#3
Most will only use the turkey tray with the factory cast iron intake,everyone that I know of uses seperate intake gaskets and end seals or rtv to seal the ends of the manifold,alum and the steel turkey tray seem to be very leak prone.Some cut the intake gasket part off the turkey tray off and use the valley part as a valley cover and some buy aftermarket trays to do the same ie Mondello's.
#5
Most will only use the turkey tray with the factory cast iron intake,everyone that I know of uses seperate intake gaskets and end seals or rtv to seal the ends of the manifold,alum and the steel turkey tray seem to be very leak prone.Some cut the intake gasket part off the turkey tray off and use the valley part as a valley cover and some buy aftermarket trays to do the same ie Mondello's.
#8
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If you want to kill your EGR, there's a quick and dirty way to do it...Although I don't recommend doing it if you aren't sure you know what you're doing it.
Find your two EGR pipes, remove them from the engine, and bend one end (the end that doesn't go on the block) over twice, and crimp the end shut. If you have a welder, I would bend them over and weld that end shut. I don't have one, nor a heat torch, so I used a vice to bend them over and crimp them shut (I lost about five pounds from manhandling the vice). Make sure nothing will get by them. Even if it looks shut make sure nothing will get by it, or it'll leak. Then build a blockoff plate for your EGR valve (A chunk of metal, I wouldn't say more than a 1/4 inch thick) and get some high temp sealant to seal the plate to it. Cut the Blockoff plate to fit over your EGR valve. Make sure it's a bit bigger than the EGR itself, of course.
I've only done this once, and the pipes leaked a little. Oh well, wasn't my car and I was doing all the work for free :|
Although..I'm sure somebody has a more efficient way to do it. hehe.
Find your two EGR pipes, remove them from the engine, and bend one end (the end that doesn't go on the block) over twice, and crimp the end shut. If you have a welder, I would bend them over and weld that end shut. I don't have one, nor a heat torch, so I used a vice to bend them over and crimp them shut (I lost about five pounds from manhandling the vice). Make sure nothing will get by them. Even if it looks shut make sure nothing will get by it, or it'll leak. Then build a blockoff plate for your EGR valve (A chunk of metal, I wouldn't say more than a 1/4 inch thick) and get some high temp sealant to seal the plate to it. Cut the Blockoff plate to fit over your EGR valve. Make sure it's a bit bigger than the EGR itself, of course.
I've only done this once, and the pipes leaked a little. Oh well, wasn't my car and I was doing all the work for free :|
Although..I'm sure somebody has a more efficient way to do it. hehe.
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