Hey guys, I found a pair of G heads near me (driving distance)

Not much information in the post other than they came off a Delta. 442.com (I know, not always accurate) says they would be 1971. They're not Ga heads, just G so can I assume they're pre-EGR? I messaged the seller asking for more info, including some pics of the valves/combustion chambers as there were none (a little suspect?). And the Delta's would have had the small 2 inch valves, yes?
They look pretty rough, like just pulled off a high-mileage motor, so I'd be picking them up as cores. Is there anything I should look for? Burnt valves would like like....what? Any way to know if they were overheated? Warpage?
Many of you know I've been having trouble with my ported J heads and the valves so I want to go into this better educated.
Thanks

 

You didn't say what type car you are putting this in. Looks like these are core heads. If they need rebuilding, they will probably need new valves, so I would just put in the bigger valves in, they are not going to cost you much more if any money.

 

Yeah, I'm thinking cores. I heard back from the dude and he said if he didn't already have big valve C heads, he'd bolt them on. I asked him to pull a couple valves and check for guide wear, FWIW. If they're going to need new valves, I might as well just take my J's to the machinist and have new valves put in (my problem is the valves are too short to get good geometry. You can see they were ground-down. And my roller tip rockers are etching the pattern, which leans to the exhaust side, into the valve stems). The guy said he thinks they'd never been apart so I would say they'd need new guides as well. And seals.
Decisions, decisions. I guess my question is, would they be better than ported and polished J heads. Any way to check them for straight?
This is for my 455, recently built, for my '71 Supreme with these specs:

Cam - 227, 233; .512 lift, 110 LSA
Hedman long tubes
Edel performer intake
Street Demon 750 carb
9.8:1 CR
200-4r trans w/ 2500 stall
3.73 gears

 

If replacing valves and guides is even in question, I’d strongly consider going aluminum.

Unless the original look is desired.

 

I have said this before, it’s getting harder to properly rebuild iron heads and be cost effective over simply buying aluminum heads. By the time all the machine work is done, valves, guides, new springs, etc, the cost adds up quick. Aftermarket aluminum heads are a 40-50hp bolt on, unless originality is important it’s a no brainer in my opinion

 

Well, let's have a look-see....

Non-original motor
Non-original trans
Non-original interior
Non-original rear end
Non-original suspension
Non-original wheels

I think aluminum heads sound pretty darn good, lol. Easier to port too, I would think. What kind of prices are we talking? And what heads are recommended? Edelbrock?

 

I heard guys having issues with AL heads and mechanical fuel pumps. Just a little shaving off needed? And driver's side alternator bracket and power steering pump? Any problems there? I have an aftermarket AC bracket that bolts to the front, only, for my Sanden-style compressor.

 

Procomps prepped by a Olds specialist. I think cutlassefi offers them. I can attest he's great to deal with.

I have both Edelbrocks and Procomps on my shelf. Procomp is a great value.

Fuel pump should clear fine, cant speak to your brackets. Don't forget you'll need new pushrods, roller rockers, tall valve covers, rocker studs, and guide plates, valves and valve seals.

DO IT!

 

Just remember aluminum heads will have to be gone through to be made correct, and what I mean by that is usually the valve job. I can't speak for Pro comp heads, but Edelbrocks you will want to ck them before bolting them on.

 

Keep in mind additional cost . i dont know of the pro comps or edelbrocks will come with 5/16 or 3/8 holes for the rocker arm studs, which then you will need new gear if tou have the smaller studs, then head bolts or studs if you still have stock. Etc etc. Just fwiw.

 

C heads seem to be cheap and plentiful.

 

Cheap and plentiful, but not local. I'll bide my time. No rash decisions. I have the winter to scrimp and save and think about which direction to go. But I think I'll pass on the G-heads. At least I figured out that much. Will pretty much any used iron heads need to go to the machinist? I think I just answered my own question

 

Believe it or not, I actually considered all that, lol. I'm learning! There something called rocketracingparts (or something like that) an eBay selling Olds AL heads with all the goodies (minus rockers and pushrods, of course) for about $1200 a set. Seems too good to be true, though.

 

Why tall valve covers? I have the shorty Polyloks.

 

Bernard mondello. Not mondello in Cal. Has a pretty good package deal. About 1800 i wanna say but i could be wrong. All set up right. Another option is to find a set of good used heads like from a racer that need very little done. My J heads and intake came from a buddy of mine who raced with them.

 

Bernard Mondello is in California........Corona. (951) 371-1432. The BAD "Mondello" (Mondellotwister) is in Pasa Robles, California. There is a "Mondello" in Tennesee that was started by Joe Mondello.

 

Are your polylocks 7/16"? Thats what you'd need with aluminum heads.

ARP head bolts are needed too.

Yes, Bernard Mondello appears to be on his game with the Procomp head packages.

 

I offer very competitive packages as well. Just an FYI.

 

Uh oh, I was afraid you were going to see this thread. Here I am talking about new heads and I haven't bought my AFR gauge yet. I'm like a kid in a candy store but with no money

 

Join the club, Mark will treat you right on the new heads. I believe with most mechanical fuel pumps on the BBO, just a slight shaveon Procomp or Edelbrock heads. Yeah just 7/16" studsand guide plates plus gaskets. Another bonus is the better chamber, almost guaranteed to eliminate your pinging with the same compression. A better chamber goes a long way.

 

You bring up a good point, 307. My chambers measured 83 CC's. If new heads have a smaller chamber, I'll need thicker gaskets. My current gaskets are .038

 

If my numbers are correct I'm running a dynamic CR of 8.98:1. Is that high?

 

I believe Procomp's are 77cc but they were originally 83 to 84cc untouched when produced. I would run the same if 0 deck. Mark could get the chambers polished if it worries you. Get a quote and his input.

 

Unfortunately they’re still 80-82, about 84 when we’re done with them. I can tell you they’ve NEVER been 77cc’s. BUT the better chamber and plug location helps no matter what.

 

See you won't gain any compression and Mark has seen multiple sets first hand, so trust what he says.

 

The larger combustion chamber is actually good news. But for now, new heads are just a pipe dream. I have a pile of stuff to sell on eBay (and elsewhere) but I'm just too buried in work right now. Christmas break is coming up so maybe I can make some headway then.
AS long as I'm not damaging anything but the valves and guides, I'm going to enjoy the last of the fall weather. I put in some NGK plugs and new low-ohm Taylor wires and an upgraded cap and coil, turned the initial back a couple of degrees, and added that to the vac can and she's running pretty smooth. I can easily smoke both rear tires, even with the wife in the car, which wasn't the case with the small block and a peg-leg, so I'm doing okay for right now.

I did find a used pair of aluminum heads yesterday. The problem is they have a '65 Chevy Nova wrapped around them. I'm pretty sure it's a package deal. I know, it's a Chebby, but it's a sweet little ride