Good Memorial Day all,

I've been lurking around on and off for years but finally (18 years later) have the time, money and space to do something with the 66 F-85 my dad and I bought when I was in high school. The first thing I want to do is build a 455 to replace the stock 330/4bbl combo and create just a solid street and stoplight tire squealing machine. I don't have a ton of mechanical experience, but am generally handy. On my last deployment a few years ago, one of the other guys and I had some in depth conversations about classic cars, and he'd told me when he was 19 he bought "How to Rebuild Your Hemi," followed it meticulously and successfully rebuilt the motor in his Challenger. I'm now working through "How to Rebuild: Oldsmobile V-8 Engines" and am confident I can do this.

So few questions then, since I don't have any specific HP or torque goals in mind, just an easy build for a first time guy, it seems like the easiest way to go is to buy a short block (S&J, Carolina Machine, etc.) and a top end kit like Edelbrock's and bold it all together. The next level would be a short block, but then figuring out heads, cam, etc on my own. Finally, just finding a core and going from there. The things that make me a little more hesitant to do options 2 and 3 for my first build are that there are so many different combinations and opinions out there on how to go, and my goals are not specific.

I've seen a few recipes for different builds here as well, and am a fan of that (I'm a pilot, very checklist driven, linear and not creative) for my first build. I'll build the motor first, no idea how long that'll take depending on how I decide to go (and kids, and job, and etc.), then have the car shipped out. I'll probably pair it to a well built TH350 from a shop I saw suggested in a thread here that's local to me in West Sacramento, and try to find some headers as well.

Looking forward to hearing thoughts,
Andy

 

I looked at both web sites that you listed. Carolina Engines looks promising. Does anyone here have any experience with them?

 

I was also impressed with Carolina Engines. Doing just the short block is simple to complete the assembly and a good price. I wonder how far out they are for rebuilds.
Steve

 

Thanks, I was able to find reviews about them on several other forums and the BBB website, and there wasn't a huge number of bad reviews on them like there were some of the other places. Not that I'm on a super restrictive budget, but since I don't have a core to donate, their $1200 core charge gave me pause. That's where I get to thinking if it's going to be that much, plus shipping to Sacramento, I might as well find a block here and do it all. There are quite a few marine blocks available around and a few auto at just a quick glance, but that route would open up a few more cans of worms...or some would say opportunities to excel.

 

Then I find something like this and think maybe this is the way to go. $500 seems like a deal and a good starting point for something that's going to take me a while anyway.

South SF 455

 

All I can say is, what ever direction you choose, be very.. very careful when choosing a machine shop. When he starts showing you his high HP Chevy builds and his 9 sec Chevy shop car, just leave. Unless the machine shop is familiar with Olds engines and heads and has a proven track record and actual running builds don't do it.
Remember your building an Olds not a Chevy.

 

A few short years ago I took a marine 455 and dismantled it. Took the block with main caps and pistons on rods to a local machine shop for a .030 over bore and decked the block to up the compression a bit and provide a good flat surface for the head gaskets. Had them supply the new pistons, installed on the original rods, rings, and all bearings. Only decission I had to make was choose the cam shaft (XE274H). Any cam manufacturer will be happy to help you choose this based on your plans for the car. I used stock heads (Ka). I took them apart and hand lapped all valves and replaced seals. They already had the correect springs for the camshaft I choose. (I guess they were not entirly stockheads).
I assembeled everthing here at home with basic hand tools.
I don't recomend this...but I didn't measure anything in the lower end as I assembeled it. Afterall I had just paid a reputable shop to do that. I did spend a bit of time shimming the rocker mounts to get the lifter preload where I was comfortable.
I've put 3 or 4 thousand miles on it in the past few years and I'm very happy with it. It pulls like a freight train. And I'm proud I did it myself. It was the second engine I ever built and the other one was a chevy almost 30 years ago.
I spent $1600 at the machine shop. ( bore, deck, pistons, rings, pistons installed on rods, full gasket set.) I bought a new oil pump, timing chain/gear set, cam and lifter kit, intake, carb, headers, and torque converter. I used everthing else from the 350 I removed from the car. I'm even still runnng the TH350 transmission. I'm probably into the entire swap under $3000 and I'm really happy with it.

 

Good luck with the build! Looks like we have some similarities with our projects, the difference is I have the motor already. No build experience. But yes, no one is going to understand how exciting fixing your Dad's Oldsmobile is unless they're living it themselves!

 

Thanks guys. McIntosh, appreciate the insight on the marine motor and Ka heads, that will open up my search a bit, and hearing how you did it is what I was looking for to boost my confidence headed into this.

4dr, definitely an exciting project, would be nice if dad would make the trip out to help, but he’s not terribly mechanically inclined. He’ll just have to come out for a cruise when I get it done.

I think I’ve decided to find a motor here and have a local shop do the machine work and get it back together as a short block and go from there. Now my search for an appropriate shop begins. Any Sacramento or Central Valley types around here with an idea? Just spent the morning with my MIL’s cousin who owns an independent restoration shop, he never sees an Olds, but has connections, so I’m starting down his list.

 

You don’t need to do much to a 455 to make them perform. 9.5:1, cam, headers, 850 carb, performer intake. Keep it simple with good machine work and prep.

That’s all I have with stock J heads and rockers (the heads no one wants) and the car is as much fun as I could need.

 

Gene, goes by 64rocket lives in Union City. He has a lot of experience building Oldsmobile engines. I'm not sure exactly how far that is from you but if its within driving distance you might send him a PM to talk with him about your plans. Not sure if he has the time to do the work for you, but you could ask what he'd charge.

 

Have heard about but have no personal experience with
Rex Hutchison Racing Motors in Sacramento.

 

Thanks guys, appreciate the replies. I’ll shoot Gene a message. I saw on an old thread while I was searching a guy in Union City and one in Daly City, but things change in the 8 years since that thread.

Looked at Rex Hutchinson and looks like a good shop, but after talking to Cal at Pearl Performance for a while, it sounds like I have my guy. He’s got blocks, cranks and heads and went further into detail about building Olds engines than I’d expected in the first conversation. I’ll buy the block and crank from him and have him do the machine work, and we’ll work together on a build sheet for the rest. Then I’ll take it home and put it all together.

He mentioned the Speedmaster heads as being a good option for stock replacement with the benefit of better performance and lighter weight, but he also has stock heads he would rebuild if I’d rather have those. Any thoughts on that or other components?

 

Be sure your accessory brackets will clear the taller valve covers which are required with Speedmaster heads.

My 1964 power steering pump bracket would not clear the taller valve covers

 

A bit down the road, but I'll ask the dumb question now anyway so I can come back and reference this in a few months when I get to that point: my goal is to make it look as stock as possible under the hood, paint and all, do the stock 455 valve covers fit with aftermarket heads like Speedmaster?

 

No the stock valve covers won’t fit the Speedmaster heads. They are too short for the adjustable valve train in the Speedmaster heads.

In my opinion you will be pleased with rebuilt stock iron heads and the Speedmaster heads are not worth the hassle.

 

Sorry not true. Std stamped steel valve covers will work with a thicker gasket, side baffles removed(an easy task) and the right stud/polylock, rocker combination.

 

sounds like a good recipe. did not know this when my motor was going together. Speedmaster heads got shelved as a result.

Aluminum heads will save 50 pounds off the nose of the car whatever that’s worth.

 

Add an aluminum intake manifold with those aluminum heads and you drop a BUNCH of weight.

 

That's my thought, Performer intake and Speedmaster heads. Not sure on the carb, but reading through everything, it sounds like that combination plus 800 CFM will put it toward 450 HP, butt dyno is what I'll be using. Looks like probably stock dual exhaust manifolds so I don't have to mess around with denting and shoe-horning headers to get it into the A-body.

 

Dyno the engine to make sure it’s jetted right etc.
Don’t install the heads without going thru them and addressing the intake entry.
And you shouldn’t have to dent the headers to fit an A body. Most fit pretty well. Manifolds suck, they’ll cost you 30hp easy.

 

Good to hear on the headers, I feel like most I’ve read here is some trouble getting the 455 with headers into the A body. I’ll probably talk to the engine guy again next week or two then maybe reach out to you on heads. I put a call into Bernard Mondello, but haven’t had a return call yet.

 

There is still time to reconsider

 

I’m watching your header thread to see how it goes, definitely interested in the results.

In Pismo this weekend and noticed a distinct lack of Olds at the show, very disappointing. Guy with a Vista Cruiser mentioned he had Mondello in Paso Robles build his motor…iirc from reading here, that’s the Mondello shop that’s taken a turn for the worse. If not, we drive right past it on the way home tomorrow and might stop in. Would really only be to talk heads and general build stuff since I think I’m starting to firm up most everything else.

 

The Mondello in California is a joke, Lynn has managed to destroy a business in a few short years what it took Joe Mondello decades to build.

Whatever parts you have, Lynn will tell you they are wrong. Whatever parts Lynn currently has in stock will be perfect for your application. Lynn can do no wrong, and if something is wrong it will be your fault. He will be more than happy to fix his mistakes, but at your expense.

It’s been 25 years since I last did business with this clown. He will never get a penny from me again. Occasionally people will mention Mondello in California, so obviously Lynn is still capitalizing on the Mondello name.

Any COMPETENT machine shop should be able to machine and build a Olds engine, assuming they are willing to deviate from what works with Chevy stuff. Olds engine need a little more clearance, build a olds with tight Chevy clearances, it will clearance itself, with the material removed from the bearings and crank ending up in the oil filter.