algershick

Hi guys, I'm very close to dropping my 72 455 block off to begin machine work and wanted to get an opinion before pulling the trigger.

This motor is going in an '86 Cutlass with a 4L80E and 3.73's.
I'm not sure whether I'll use W/Z manifolds or headers - I had gasket issues with my SBO.
Bernard Mondello Speedmaster heads
Edelbrock Performer

Would the "Comp cams Hyd Roller 230/238@.050, on a 112lsa. Lift is .580" cam still be the recommended choice as I've read in a few builds from years past?

Do you have any advice for me with what I should communicate to my machine shop? I haven't found any local machine shops that specialize in Olds, of course they all say they've built them.

Thanks for taking a look.

cutlassefi

Why not a built 200-4R? Just curious.
Not sure why you had sealing issues with those heads. Did you ever establish why?
What are your hp and budget goals? And I’m told header fitment on a big block in a G body ain’t great.

algershick

Hi Mark, I'm not hell bent on anything at this point other than the rear end. I have a good deal close to me on the 4L80e and while the controller would be an additional expense, it seemed like the safer option behind a healthy BBO. Would you lean towards the 2004R even with a 450-500 hp goal?

Honestly my SBO exhaust problems were probably due to poor fitup and cheap gaskets. Hooker has a funky long tube that goes over the frame rail, I don't know if that particular header is a decent option though.

Motor alone I think I'm looking at around 8k without all of the incidentals that will pop up.

cutlassefi

500hp in front of a well built 200-4R is nothing.
And seeing as how you already have some small block stuff, and it’s a better fit, why not just stroke your small block? I’ve posted a few on here that made really great tq and hp. Just sayin.

algershick

I appreciate your feedback, I'll give the transmission some more thought.

I hear what you're saying regarding sticking with the small block, but it was the original 307 and I outgrew it and its lack of aftermarket support very quickly!

cutlassefi

That’s exactly what I’m trying to tell you. There are now a whole lot more go fast parts available for the small block than ever before. Might want to check into it.

algershick

I hear what you're saying. I swapped a set of 5A heads from an '83 onto my roller cam 307 along with the intake manifold. I swapped the 2.14 gears for a set of 3.42's out of a 2002 Trans Am which made it a bit more fun but I was just looking for more.

With the small bore I think I was limited on head options. I sold the motor last spring and picked up a 455 core and that is what I've got to work with now. I've read a lot of your build threads here and from realoldspower, I've seen some of those stroked small blocks. Awesome stuff!

dragline

Thornton has shortie headers for g bodies in small and big block versions. I'd get a recommendation from Jones Cams from his website.

http://jonescams.com/street-performance/

http://thorntonmusclecars.com/produc...-block-headers

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OLDS-CUTLAS...IAAOSwv6Fbukop

algershick

Thank you, I hadn't heard of Jones Cams before. I submitted a form for a cam recommendation, we'll see what they say.

cutlassefi

Compression, carb, converter?

algershick

I think compression will be 9.5ish. I've always ran Quadrajets in the past but I want to try something new. I've seen Quickfuel recommended quite a bit.
I'm not sure what stall converter I'll run yet, the intent is this car to be a weekend car that will only see the track a couple of times per year.

algershick

The only engine I've ever built was a Chevy 327 20 years ago and it was a train wreck of mismatched parts. I was just getting into cars and was armed with a bunch of misinformation.
The engine was iron headed with 10+ compression. I had them put a factory spec cam in it because I didn't know any better. I bought a Holley 670 Street Avenger because that was what was on the shelf at the auto parts store. I installed a 3.08 open diff because that's what I found. I used period correct rams horn exhaust manifolds because they "fit". Everything was mismatched.
Long story short, I've worked on and installed bolt-ons to a lot of different engines but I haven't built one since. I want to do this right this time around and am just looking for some input from this well respected community.

cutlassefi

Use an 850 Quick Fuel.
With that I’d do something in a 231/237 on a 112 unless you get a better converter. Then I’d do it on a 110.
The 3.73 gear is fine but I’m sure you won’t be spinning it up that high so you don’t need a lot of exhaust duration, even with the W Z manifolds.

VinMichael

Stroked Olds 350 for the G body would be sweet!

algershick

I agree, but I don't have a 350 core!

VinMichael

What’s your plan for BBO pulleys and brackets? Will the SBO ones swap over?

algershick

My understanding is that the accessory drive from my 307 should bolt up, but nothing is ever that easy for me.

cutlassefi

They’re normally pretty cheap. I’d consider that first if time and money permit.

rccktmn2

BBO in a g body is pretty straight forward, pass side valve cover will hit heater core housing if your running tall valve covers and roller rockers, other than that the 350 or 307 brackets will change over with the exception of a few shims to get the pulleys to line up unless you go aftermarket. Biggest issue is exhaust, only a few manufacturers offer swap headers, dick miller, American racing headers, thornton with the shorty headers, etc, and yes all are pretty expensive. I ran the hooker super comp swap header but I don't think there being made any more. Good luck if you go this route it will be fun but it also depends on your goal for the car. Yes a small block is a lot easier and has available parts.