67Olds442X2

Well it has been two months and to be honest, haven't gotten anywhere or done anything since the tear down. I'm thinking the reason that the bearing spun maybe is that the wrist pin was too tight in the piston. Actually #1, #2 and #3 are a little too tight and I knew it when I put the motor together. Could this have been the reason?
All I know is there is nothing worst than having the car sitting in the garage with the engine apart and not getting anything done for one reason or another.

Lee_A

In virtually every spun rod bearing I've seen, it has been the result of insufficient tightening of the rod bolts.

If you are not using a stretch gauge to determine when to stop tightening a rod bolt, then you are simply guessing.

Too many variables - torque wrench accuracy, type of lube used, burr on the thread of the rod/bolt - if bolt isn't quite tight enough, it will be springy. If it is springy, you'll eventually pop the bearing loose and you know the story from there.

Lee

coppercutlass

What about two 450 holleys and 1:1 linkage. The old 440 six pack cars had well over 1000 cfm and they used it well with no issues. They ran of the center carb on the street and the rest came in on vacuum of course you can't do that with dual quads but you can make it 1:1 and get a more even fuel supply. I think progressive linkage will lead to an un even burn since around town you probably only run on the primary side and some dual quad setups aren't open plenumns it probably feeds some cylinders more some less . We ran into this issue on my buddies triple duce set up on hin inline six we tried progressive linkage with bigger jets on the out side carbs it ran like crap we jetted the carbs all the same and went 1:1 linkage and all lean symptoms where gone

ah64pilot

It helps to read the whole thread. He has more...pressing (lol) issues than what carburetor he is going to run. Beside, he has a couple of friends on here that may be able to get him hooked up with a DaVinci Holly for less than retail.

**Lee, Dan is a CO friend of mine...if he can come up with the money I wouldn't mind asking Mr. Smith if he'd hook a(nother) brother up Haha!

coppercutlass

oh i know he has more issues but since it was brought up i thought id mention that about the uneven fuel issue since his two center header pipes looked lean i thought id mention that

67Olds442X2

When I do get it back together I'll be either re-jetting the carbs I got or getting 500's. I plan on running them both together as you mentioned and not just the rear one or having a progressive setup. If I was smart I would go the one carb route and not use the dual set-up. Maybe later on I'll change it. Thanks for your replies.

67Olds442X2

May have it back together sooner than later.

Back when it ran.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCXviITO0Ig

ah64pilot

Really? What gives?

67Olds442X2

I have the green light to sink some money into it. Figured I can put it back together for less than 1K.
Back the way it was that is, no new parts. Carbs will have to wait along with a few other mods I want.

ah64pilot

If you use your stuff, the machine work to get it all done right shouldn't cost you that $1000...it'll leave room for gaskets and such. Go for it Dan! I can't wait to see it come together! I just wish you lived closer so I could be there to help

67Olds442X2

Well dropped off the crank and rods at the machinist. $560 to turn the crank, resize rods and to fix the wrist pins on three pistons. Three pistons were a little tight and didn't move freely on the rod. I could have bought all my parts and then some to put the motor back together with that much money. Hoping to have it running again by the middle of Sept.

gregvm

Hope that you decide to include an engine balance job with that...Cheap insurance to keep reciprocating members intact.

67Olds442X2

Yes I need to do that also.

64Rocket

I'm going out on a limb and say that if the machine shop is only going to turn the crank, re-size rods and fix only three pistons, is in my mind, is about $200 to high. Also if it was me, I would have all 8 pistons fixed, to make sure all 8 are perfect. Even if he charged $100 to fix all 8 pistons,$150 for the crank, $125 resize rods, that is how I see it. I'm surprised that none of the pistons skirts are not scuffed or galled.
For the price he quoted, that should include the balance job. Now I'm going by the prices in my area, I'm in Calif, which I would say we are on the high side, but maybe not.
Don't get me wrong, I would do some research, and see if you can do better.
If he will include the balance, he will need a set of rings, rod brgs.
Also, are you going to hone the block and have the mains align hone? Maybe deck the block and mill the heads, to make sure they are straight. Just some food for thought.

Gene

67Olds442X2

I'm in southern Maryland and the shops are far and few between. I just went to a local that works out of his house. He's got a lot of equipment and has done good work before. He's charging $240 to do the rods, $120 for the pins on all pistons, course only three are bad, and $200 for the crank. I have no idea what's a good price or not. I forgot to mention balancing and he didn't mention it, that's probably another $100 or so and in the end there's no guarantee that the motor will hold together. I can't afford to do any of the block work, it was done before so not sure if it needs to be done after my short time running the motor. Expensive hobby that I may have to give up.

By the way, thanks Gene for the input. I don't have a clear mind right now and probably shouldn't be writing right now.

I'm so tempted to throw in a standard set of bearings with the new crank and be done with it.

ROBZ442

Glad to see you may be getting this back on the roadsoon. I am in the same boat as you. Twice I have put too much money in a motor that should last forever and twice it has gone bad in a short period of time. Keep your spirits up and keep moving forward, thats what I'm trying to do anyway. I love the car and think the dual quads are great. I am no engine genius but I also feel the same way about hte machine work I had more money in machine work and balancing than parts and still had a failure. I'm sure the failure was not related to this but I also know of a lot of factory assembled engines that have taken a beating and never fail. I feel if you can afford it go for it. If not do what you can afford and see what happens.

Good luck, I will be watching.
Rob

cutlassefi

I agree with Gene, that's high. Even the best shops here only charge the following;

$120 to resize 8 rods
$40 to hone pin bores
$40 to R&R pistons
$200 to grind the crank

Hope this helps

64Rocket

Again, it is a matter of clearance's. The pins were to tight. The rods need to have a clearance factor along with the mains. The other thing is balance. The pistons are heavy, along with the rods. For me i take weight off the pistons and the rods and what I take off those I take the same amount off the crank. Think of it this way, you can throw a hard ball pretty far, now try and throw a soft ball the same distance. So if you have big weight at 6000 rpm, just think what it is trying to do. Some of these shop balance to the lightest one and make all the others come close. Close is not good enough when you start running it hard.
If you can't do it right the first time, how are you going to do it right the second time.

Gene

67Olds442X2

I think I'm going to get the crank done for the $200 and the one rod resized, the one with the spun bearing. The other rods look good. Don't see why they would need work. Could be wrong.
Also I just made a deal to sell my 66 442 motor and 4-speed set-up so I'm debating if I should just sink money from that into a rotating assy, have it checked and be done with the bottom end.

ah64pilot

Dan, whatever you do don't take shortcuts. You will waste more money in the long run. Have it done right one time. Do all of the bottom end or you will end up right back where you are now. You don't need a whole new assembly, just make sure you have the stock stuff machined properly and balanced. Even if you get the Eagle stuff the only way to install it correctly it to have it machined to fit together, nothing is ever perfect even if they say it is.

67Olds442X2

Thanks guys, I think with the extra dough it would be best to put it in the bottom end. Looking at a set of Eagle rods and either Probe or KB pistons. Have it balance and fitted to the crank and be done with it. As time goes on, change intake set up and then maybe alum heads.
I'll post when I get it running again. I just want it running for one event coming up on the 22nd of September so I got my work cut out for me. It's going to take maybe two weeks just to turn the crank.

64Rocket

two weeks to machine a crank, WOW. They are the only gang in town or he is supper busy. 3 day turn around seems more like it.

Gene

67Olds442X2

The only person within 10 miles. He is slow, actually he sends the crank out. You know I might just pick up the crank and go elsewhere.

ah64pilot

I took mine 35 miles to Nicken's Brothers Racing Engines...it was well worth the trip. A good machinist is hard to find these days...I just happened to find one with a really good reputation.

67Olds442X2

I might check this shop out. About 1 hr away.

http://www.cresapmachine.com/shop.htm

Steve O

Id run those carbs so they both open together one to one

I always wanted that setup

I have one thats been going strong for almost 8 years now with the tunnel ram and dual 600 AFB's hooked up 1 to 1, it's fun

67Olds442X2

I'll be doing that the next go around. Need to downgrade the carbs though or re-jet. Might even add another spacer.

67Olds442X2

That shop is 3 hrs away, 209 miles. Gee.

Steve O

The pics of your rod bearings worn only on the top look like detonation, even if you cant hear it it can happen...

Im reworking one of my motors right now that had the same problem minus the knocking...

Cant trust 93 octane to really be 93 these days...

The 750's are vacuum secondarys and should work, but I like the dual 500's idea better

67Olds442X2

Maryland International Raceway is 40 mins away, may have to start getting some gas there.