I think I know what I need, but I wanted to ask those who are much smarter than I am...lol

The guy I am getting the 66 Starfire from said the cam lobe that drives the mechanical fuel pump has gone flat. It has an electric pump on it now, but I was told it needs a different regulator with a fuel return instead of the strait regulator. The gas cap has to be left loose so it doesnt overload the carb and flood it out. I dont care for leaving the gas cap loose, so I guess i either need a new cam or a new regulator. I wouldnt mind the cam later on since I could go with a hotter unit, but my budget says I need a regulator. What are your opinions on my issue?

So if I get a new regulator, I know I will need the fuel line to run to the tank and a way to plumb it in, not a big deal. Is there a certain regulator I should get or anything else I should know?

Would this one work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bille...Q5fAccessories

Thanks, James.

 

Quite simple just buy a new replacement fuel pump and take that crap off, keep that car as original as you can. An OEM fuel pump will work Just great!!

 

How will it work if the cam lobe that runs the pump is bad? Thats the whole reason for the electric pump, trust me I wish it were that easy.

 

I would check the cam lobe with an indicater and a mag base and just see what the ofset is,I have not heard of a cam lobe for a fuel pump wearing out enough to stop it from pumping.If the lobe is that bad then all of the valve train lobs should also be wore out.

 

It's not a cam lobe. It's the fuel pump drive eccentric that's worn out. If that's worn out, expect the timing chain to be worn out too because it's obvious it's not getting any lubrication.

All 65-90 Oldsmobile V8 engines use this part so even if you have to junkyard for it, it won't be difficult to find. I'd worry more about finding a good fuel pump that the diaphram isn't dryrotted or that has been set up for modern rotgut gasoline, which tends to literally EAT old diaphram material.

 

Ok, I will check into those things, especially the chance that the timing chain is not getting lubed.

How hard is it to change the fuel pump drive eccentric, i believe he tried a new fuel pump before he even messed with the electric pump. I will find out more this saturday when i go check it out again.

Thanks again everyone!

 

The fuel pump eccentric is attatched to the front of the cam gear and so you have to take the front off the engine and this will reveal the timing chain and other neat things lurking in there...

 

hi ive got a holley elect pump on mine with a inline reg from autozone and i dont use the return line capped off theres a breather line at the tank so you can have the fuel cap tight mines a 66 too

 

also the eccentric is on front of the cam timing gear cant miss it

 

Since there is a fuel regulator on the car you could try adjusting it for proper fuel pressure at the carb, quadrajets don't like more than 6 or 7# max fuel pressure. You can run the electric pump without a return.

 

I would look that car over real well cause from what he told you he appears to be an idiot!

 

2x on that

 

No not an idiot at all, one of my good friends. You have to realize that people are not near as versed on Oldsmobiles and engines in general as you guys are, which is the reason I am asking here. Just because your theory is wrong doesnt make you an idiot. He is one of the best fab guys and painters I know. Numerous magazine features and cover vehicles to his credit. Now he admits he does not like doing engine work, but can and will if he has to. This is a car that he got cheap when a friend was moving out of town and he did what he had to to keep it running and driving. The electric fuel pump worked, so he went with it, later realizing he needed a return.

I am going to mention and check the vents, that seems to be what is going on. The first thing on my list is going to make sure it is getting lubrication to the timing chain and to see if the eccentric is the problem.

After that it is on to brakes and a fresh flat black paint job.

Thanks for the advice guys, it is appreciated.

 

Ok, I will ask here, do i need to take the front accessories off and pull the timing cover to check for lubrication of the chain? I have done some external engine work, but never actually tore into a motor.

 

You must remove the water pump and any bracketry that is in the way of the water pump backing plate/timing cover. The plate has a gasket on it and a rubber seal that is part of the oil pan front seal. This seal is sorta locked into the oil pan and some of the oil pan bolts usually need to be loosened to remove the timing cover. You will also need a balancer puller to remove the harmonic balancer. This will need to come off to remove timing cover. When this can of worms is opened you may have oil leaks from the pan afterwards. If the engine has never been apart or rebuilt it would be wise to replace the oil pan gasket totally rather than just the front seal. If you go this far you may as well replace the timing chain set......If I were you I would simply look into the hole where the mechanical pump is to see if the eccentric is there at all. Since your friend is not an engine guy and his theory and wording was pretty far off about the venting and cam lobes and return lines, and regulator, possibly you just need a new mechanical pump and there is nothing wrong with the fuel pump eccentric or oiling.

 

The eccentric looks like a big soft plug, stamped steel. I think it more likely that it is just loose as it has the one cam bolt holding it tight, and a locating tab that goes into the hole in the cam gear that the cam dowel pin goes into from the back side. You really should go in there and fix the problem, regardless of whether you continue with an electric fuel pump. you can leave the pater pump attached to the front cover with the four 3/8" head bolts, and just remove the 1/2" head and 9/16" head bolts, then pry off the front cover/dwater pump gently. When reinstalling, clean the front seal and use RTV to help slide the cover into place; loosen the front oil pan bolts so it can flex out of the way. Or, if you absolutely can't get the cover on, replace the seal entirely with a huge bead of RTV. There are two dowels in the block that index the front cover.

 

LMAO, you hit that one right on the head. I am going out there Saturday to ask a lot more questions and check things out. I will make sure he tried a new mechanical pump, even though that would seem obvious to me. It would be a lot more work to add an electric pump than just replace stock pump. It could have been an issue he inherited from the owner before him and he just took his word on the issue.

So what else would I hear or see if the timing chain is not getting lubed? Would it be noisy?

Thanks a ton for the wright up, I dont think this is a deal breaker since I am only giving $1k for the car. I am giving him 1k and a 49 chevy truck that the freind gave me about 8 years ago....lol

 

I bet the fuel pump eccentric wasn't installed when the timing chain cover was removed the last time. It is easy to forget. I almost forgot to install it when I was assembling my engine.