I'm a rookie on how to degree a camshaft, here's the specs of one I have to degree now. What does it mean where is says "these specs are for cam installed @ 110.0 intake center line". I thought that you start at TDC and the intake should open at 44 and close at 84. Thanks.

 

Basically, your ensuring the timing chain, camshaft/crankshaft machining tolerances don’t stack up to put the cam off position.

Tgere are lots of YouTube videos that explain the procedure and theory far better than I could.

 

110 intake centerline is when the center of intake lobe is indexed to 110 crank degrees. So if the cam centerline is at 110 the opening and closing numbers will be those numbers. Go to the comp cams web site they have a tutorial with illustrations read the whole thing.

 

This looks like a '68 Hurst/Olds W-45 cam.

 

The problem with these aftermarket cams is that while the max lift and advertised duration may be the same as OEM cams, you don't know if the lobe profile or LSA are the same. 113 deg LSA is pretty wide, for example. Olds didn't release specs on duration at 0.050. Some of these aftermarket clones of OEM cams are NHRA Stock "cheater" cams with the same overall specs but much more aggressive ramps on the lobes that make more power but beat up the valvetrain. I don't know if this particular cam is that way or not.

 

This might help.

 

This cam shaft is going in my '68 H/O, used the same cam in my '69 H/O years ago and it worked out great. My engine builder degreed that cam and now I want to do it my self for this car.

 

I have few lessons-learned about degreeing a cam.

1) Get the Cloyes adjustable timing set with nine keyway slots in the cam gear.




2) Get a complete cam degree kit with a large degree wheel. I have this one from Summit.




3) Get a rigid piston stop. The thin sheet metal ones are too flexible and bend when you run the piston up against them. Mine looks like this.


4) Get a Chrysler crank snout socket with the retaining nut for the degree wheel. Yes, this fits the Olds crank snout.

 

There is two chain options for that Cloyes timing set, get the more expensive premium chain, only $20 more. I really need to pick up the socket Joe pointed out. It is a pain constantly using an impact to remove the crank bolt. I have only done two cam degreeing, far from an expert. Start with checking that the timing set is accurate as made, a few are not and true TDC. Follow the experts advice, if you run into a snag. Both Mark's, Cutlassefi and Vortecpro were very helpful on my last one. Good luck.

 

Good info in this thread.

 

Joe P. While Oldsmobile never released the degrees duration at incremental valve lifts, they did release valve opening and closing events and valve lift. The words on the cam card list it as an "OL replacement for 402194". Since the duration and valve lift are the same as the '68 H/O cam, #402194 sounds like a "good number" (factory part number in my memory bank), and "replacement", seemed like a reasonable assumption. It happens to be one of my favorite factory cams and I have used it in a couple different engines. #402569 is another "factory" cam favorite of mine.

While neither of us can confirm or deny the cam opening and closing rates and incremental lift numbers, its close enough for his application. Only the missing information (Oldsmobile and CompCams) can tell whether the cam is using "new technology" (faster opening and closing valve lift) or the "factory" valve lift ramps.
Those old NHRA "cheater cams" with faster opening and closing rates is now "new technology" because they didn't realize what Lunati and a few other cam grinders did more than 50 years ago.

 

That cam has been a favorite of mine for years. I have picked up a couple of them, brand new, including a "blueprinted" version in the last few years that came up for sale.

 

You are correct. 402194 is the 308/308 W31 cam also used in the 68 H/O without A/C. 397328 is the 308/308 cam used in the 66-67 W30 motors and Track Packs. I'm just always skeptical of aftermarket claims of "replacement". We've all been to that movie before. Trust but verify.
And of course 402569 is the 328/328 cam used in 68-69 W30 motors and 1970 W30 MT motors.

 

The issue with that cam card is they are measuring the events at .001. Further, that cam has an “advance” built into it. The original 402194 had no advance.

Follow Joe P. Instructions and just plot your cam card.

 

Thanks for all the great advice, the Engle Cam cards are quite different.

 

Ok, the deed is done. The cam card called for 110 degrees centerline and with the timing gear dots lined up it came out between 111 and 112 degrees so I'm calling it good.

 

Once the engine has some run time and the chain wears in, I bet if you recheck the degree procedure it will be even closer. As the chain stretches the cam timing will retard just a bit. Almost like the engineers knew what they were doing!

 

are you saying when the chain wears it will be closer to 110 ?

 

Yes, as the chain stretches the cam timing will retard. If it’s at 112 now, a little run time will bring it closer to 110

 

Oh my God 😁

think about what you just said

 

Ok, autocorrect changed CAM to can, what did I miss?

 

It will retard camshaft. I would put it in 106 to 108 for bottom end street performance. The cam will retard some on instant start up. Usually 1 degree, then with some miles maybe 1 more. Maybe

 

you missed the fact that it will retard , not advance.

 

And it’s already retarded at 111-112.