Crank and two piece rear main
#1
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Crank and two piece rear main
I know there are several threads on this, but I am just trying to get a consensus and clear up some confusion I have from reading them.
When using the 460 two piece rear main seal on a 455 is there any work that needs to be done to the crank?
I have read that the hashmarks on the rear of the crank must be completely machined off. Some think that is too much and say to just give it a light polishing. And still others will say it is a direct replacement, no crank work required or desired.
I am just a little confused here. Were there different cranks? Is there a difference between the hashmarks on a stock crank verses an Eagle aftermarket crank?
Thanks,
Steve
When using the 460 two piece rear main seal on a 455 is there any work that needs to be done to the crank?
I have read that the hashmarks on the rear of the crank must be completely machined off. Some think that is too much and say to just give it a light polishing. And still others will say it is a direct replacement, no crank work required or desired.
I am just a little confused here. Were there different cranks? Is there a difference between the hashmarks on a stock crank verses an Eagle aftermarket crank?
Thanks,
Steve
#3
I have used the rubber seal with no problems as is. When I have the crank polish they run a quick run over that area just to take the ruff edges and move on. No major polish, no changes to that area. so far so good.
Gene
Gene
#5
I've used the Ford 2-piece replacement seals in both big blocks and small blocks with excellent results.
I also heard the knurled area on the crank should be removed.
I used fine emory cloth on one crank to just smooth the knurl some, didn't remove it completely.
The seal worked fine.
I also did nothing to the knurl on another crank. Seal still worked fine.
So, from my experience, it didn't make any difference.
One tip I did read that seems like a really good idea that I never considered before which I did on the last seal installation
is to rotate the seal in the block so that it actually stick out of the block about 1/4" on one side,
then install the other half in the bearing cap the same way so that the points where the two halves meet
are not lined up at the surfaces where the cap meets the block to reduce the risk of leakage.
I also heard the knurled area on the crank should be removed.
I used fine emory cloth on one crank to just smooth the knurl some, didn't remove it completely.
The seal worked fine.
I also did nothing to the knurl on another crank. Seal still worked fine.
So, from my experience, it didn't make any difference.
One tip I did read that seems like a really good idea that I never considered before which I did on the last seal installation
is to rotate the seal in the block so that it actually stick out of the block about 1/4" on one side,
then install the other half in the bearing cap the same way so that the points where the two halves meet
are not lined up at the surfaces where the cap meets the block to reduce the risk of leakage.
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