Coolant Leak, help!

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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 08:36 AM
  #1  
olds88royalvert's Avatar
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1970 Delta 88 Royale Conv
 
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Coolant Leak, help!

Overnight I have lost about a gallon of coolant. The car went for a drive around the neighborhood ( less than a mile) twice. It is dripping coolant, and it is a steady drip. i am on my way out to jack it up and see where it is coming from. It is a 2bbl 455 in a 1970 delta 88 royale convertible. What are the chances the block is cracked? When I put in the distilled water yesterday, since i saw it was low, there was some antifreeze in it. My granfather mentioned something about soft plugs when i was talking with him this morning. I am hoping it is a hose or a plug, and not a cracked block.
What are the chances it is just a plug?
If the block is cracked can they be fixed? Is it worth it the money to fix it?
Old Sep 6, 2009 | 09:32 AM
  #2  
olds88royalvert's Avatar
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1970 Delta 88 Royale Conv
 
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pictures

since pictures are great, i crawled under the car, and these are the pictures i got of where it is leaking.

http://www.matthewryanjennings.com/carrepair.htm

the 3rd picture is a good one, are these the soft plugs? can you still get them?
Old Sep 6, 2009 | 09:39 AM
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ok take a metal punch with a smooth tip (so you dont knock a hole in it ) at the bottom of the freeze plug hit the bar with a hammer to lossen the plug then knock it out into the water jacket only turning the plug in the hole till you can get on it with some channel loks grab it and pull it out of the engine ...you also want to take out the drain plug on the side of the engine that is leaking to drain the water out first....yeah you can still get them i suggest brass ones clean the hole good and use some locktight

Last edited by 84 rocket; Sep 6, 2009 at 09:49 AM.
Old Sep 6, 2009 | 12:44 PM
  #4  
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1970 Delta 88 Royale Conv
 
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Thinking

I have looked and thought, it seems easy enough, but I think I am going to have my radiator shop do the plug for me. For the simple fact is that I am going to take it in to the cooling system flushed. I am not sure if it has ever been flushed, and since they have chemicals for the system to give it a good cleaning. Any thoughts? I would prefer to do it myself, more so, cause i could drive it today, and I am really wanting to drive it because it is nice out. Oh well, Soon I shall be driving it.
Old Sep 6, 2009 | 01:40 PM
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it looks pretty rusty is there coolant in there? if not take the block drain plugs out they might be pluged stick a screw driver through the hole and let the block drain then chase the holes with a tap and go about as said in my previous post you could run a garden hose through the uper hose to the engine but will have to remove the thermastate

Last edited by 84 rocket; Sep 6, 2009 at 01:43 PM.
Old Sep 6, 2009 | 02:54 PM
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For what its worth, let a shop do it...Its a real PITA to get at...probably worth the $100 or so it will cost you...Unless you enjoy cursing, swearing...stress on the heart
Old Sep 6, 2009 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 442scotty
For what its worth, let a shop do it...Its a real PITA to get at...
Not to mention nasty and wet!
Old Sep 6, 2009 | 07:09 PM
  #8  
olds88royalvert's Avatar
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1970 Delta 88 Royale Conv
 
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I don't mind cursing or swearing, and I am always up for a good challenge, however I don't think my neighbors with little kids like it though. I would like to attempt it, but with not knowing anyone who would come over and help also not having a lift, I would prefer to have it done, also for the aspect of getting it super clean and having it done right. Also, if it is only going to be around 100 or so, it gives me a piece of mind knowing it is done correctly, and that the system is in good condition to run. I plan on driving it for a few weeks, as it runs good and smooth (my dad is jealous of it I am pretty sure) before I start tearing into it. New Valve Cover gaskets are on the to do list. I am going to rebuild the carb, and possibly see about putting a 4 bbl on it, and winter mods if time and the bank allow, I am thinking of new valve covers (edelbrock?) putting on dual exhaust, and whatever else I can do. Also to come this winter is a heated garage. My dad and I have it slated for the beginning of october to insulate and install a wood burner in the garage to have it heated for work.
Old Sep 7, 2009 | 04:59 AM
  #9  
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if that freeze plug is rusted through then the others may be soon to follow. i would replace all six on the engine block. the two behind the motor mounts are a little harder. to get on the road you could do the one but remember that the others later. may be a good winter project.
Old Sep 7, 2009 | 08:32 AM
  #10  
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1970 Delta 88 Royale Conv
 
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This winter I will probably go through everything and all of the small stuff to repair/replace. These will go on my list. This winter I am also going to repair the a/c, it doesn't work at the moment, and since i will have to change it over to 134a from r-12.
Old Sep 7, 2009 | 05:14 PM
  #11  
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I've hears 20 mule team borax is a good green rust remover ...

Those are sheetmetal not soft plugs, replace with the highest quality plugs ...

then you have to surface , not clean, the seats ...

well worth the quote you got on labor ...

Last edited by mugzilla; Sep 8, 2009 at 09:10 AM.
Old Sep 8, 2009 | 05:37 PM
  #12  
olds88royalvert's Avatar
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1970 Delta 88 Royale Conv
 
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Really? Borax? I got an estimate today, 250 for the flush and freeze plug, so I am going to get another estimate, however, I may end up tackling this myself. we shall see
Old Sep 8, 2009 | 09:18 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by olds88royalvert
Really? Borax? I got an estimate today, 250 for the flush and freeze plug, so I am going to get another estimate, however, I may end up tackling this myself. we shall see

It helps if you can run the engine for a while with the 20 mule team borax. I usually remove thermostat, put heater on as high possible. I remove heater hoses and the lower radiator hose put them back on so you can remove them easily and fill system alternating heater hoses and drain with lower hose until clean.This is a good time to check for blockages, The water should drain quickly. At this point you wonder why you didn't go to the shop . Make sure you get a time guarantee as you may still have particulate and make sure you test drive and inspect.
Old Sep 8, 2009 | 09:22 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by mugzilla
. Make sure you get a time guarantee as you may still have particulate and make sure you test drive and inspect.
Time guarantee?
Old Sep 9, 2009 | 03:24 AM
  #15  
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Smile Plugs

Those frost plugs also come in not able to rust BRASS too, so if you want a better plug then brass yourself...
Old Sep 9, 2009 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Yellowstatue
Those frost plugs also come in not able to rust BRASS too, so if you want a better plug then brass yourself...
X2 Make sure you go with the brass
Old Sep 9, 2009 | 11:17 AM
  #17  
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From: dogtown
Originally Posted by olds88royalvert
Time guarantee?
Like, a three month or 6 month guarantee ...

Brass is good ...
Old Sep 9, 2009 | 06:13 PM
  #18  
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what is the deal with the new rubber freeze plugs?
Old Sep 9, 2009 | 06:41 PM
  #19  
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From: dogtown
Originally Posted by Oldsmobilliam
what is the deal with the new rubber freeze plugs?
Easy to install, they will dry out/rot eventually ...
Old Sep 9, 2009 | 06:52 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Oldsmobilliam
what is the deal with the new rubber freeze plugs?
they have ben around for years. but they do work good to get you by. just have to install them completely dry and no sealers. this may be the way to go for now. they are easy to install.
Old Sep 9, 2009 | 10:12 PM
  #21  
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the rubber plugs are easy to install but most the time people use them as a fix and they rot or get stuck in the block as someone that works at an engine shop and do the teardowns i would not suggest them
Old Sep 9, 2009 | 10:13 PM
  #22  
84 rocket's Avatar
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Originally Posted by 84 rocket
ok take a metal punch with a smooth tip (so you dont knock a hole in it ) at the bottom of the freeze plug hit the bar with a hammer to lossen the plug then knock it out into the water jacket only turning the plug in the hole till you can get on it with some channel loks grab it and pull it out of the engine ...you also want to take out the drain plug on the side of the engine that is leaking to drain the water out first....yeah you can still get them i suggest brass ones clean the hole good and use some locktight
i sugest brass ones x20
Old Sep 10, 2009 | 02:12 PM
  #23  
olds88royalvert's Avatar
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1970 Delta 88 Royale Conv
 
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So I tackled this this morning, as i was feeling pretty good and had the day off (had two wisdom teeth out yesterday). The plug went better than i thought, and I did put in a brass one, thank you guys for the pointers. Got her all flushed out and took her to the golf course this afternoon. Now time to really enjoy her, before the winter sets in and I start doing some things to her.
Old Sep 10, 2009 | 05:03 PM
  #24  
citcapp's Avatar
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Great, glad it work out.
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