The Doug’s 1 7/8” headers fit beautifully on my 455 but no room for a dipstick. I screwed a bolt in the hole to plug it but wonder how I can check the oil now.

 

You can wait for the red light to come on and the engine to stop. There has to be a way to get a dipstick in there.

 

I've run Thorley headers on BBOs before. The dipstick fits.

 

I also have those headers, and the tube fits.

 

It may help if you post a photo of the area in question as to why the indicator guide tube will not fit... There are several different indicator guide tube bends available that may work for you... As long as the indictor is correct for the tube the reading should be accurate...

 

Wonder if you could adapt one of the Lokar flexible ones if needed ?

https://www.lokar.com/engine-dipsticks.html

 

Yes, that can work, but the point is, he shouldn't have to use one. The stock tube fits - unless Doug's headers have changed significantly since I last installed a pair.

 

Here are the two different sets of headers. The first picture are the Doug’s 1 7/8” and you can see how tightly packed the tubes are. The second picture is the old headers which were only 1 5/8”. Plenty a room to fit the dipstick on those

 

Here are two OEM options available:

 

CRUZN 66 are those aftermarket or just different style Olds dipsticks? Are they for sale? Called Doug's Headers and they didn't have much advice other than try a low profile dipstick or bend the tube to fit around the header.

 

These are not aftermarket, they are OEM Factory NOS guides... The ones in the photo are for big blocks... The one in the wrapper is for 74/75 455 (Part Number 417091) and the other one is for 68/69 400 and 69/73 455 (Part Number 401357)... I do not have the matching oil indicators... I do have some available for sale, but I can not guarantee either one will solve your problem... You can use the part numbers provided to see what is available aftermarket...

 

Ok thanks. I’ll try to bend the one I have and make it work. If not, I’ll throw money at it like everything else until I find something. I’ll try to get some measurements that might help us figure out what tube fits.

 

Getting ready to have exhaust system put back on and mentioned the dipstick issue to the muffler shop. In addition, the front brake line now goes in between 2 of the tubes. Muffler shop highly recommended I find another pair of headers.
Looking for opinions on headers now. I want to stick with the 1 7/8” if possible. Is it possible I got a set that is a little out of spec and there should be enough room for a dipstick? Should the front brake line have to go between header tubes and is that safe? Summit said they can send another set to see if there’s any difference, or I could try another brand instead. If there’s no other choice, and it’s safe to run the brake line in between the tubes, I will pound the tube out enough to fit a dipstick tube.

 

X2 ^^^^^

It's a tight fit, but it does fit.

 

No chance on mine. Thinking I should have them ship me another set and see what I get. Ok to run front brake line between header tubes? I have the ceramic coated ones.

 

No, its not a good idea. Do you have a picture of the brake line and tube interference? Just use an aftermarket oil dip stick and tube.

 

Drivers side brake line


First 3 pics are drivers side. Last pic is passenger. Brake line is brand new from inline tube. Headers are Doug’s 1 7/8”. Mainly concerned at this point about brake line proximity to headers. No chance of any dipstick fitting as tube is too close to engine block.

 

You need to make the brake lines follow the frame.

 

Spoke with Doug’s headers rep and they were again no help. Guy didn’t believe me that there wasn’t nearly enough space for a dipstick tube. Took my chances and drove a tapered steel rod between flange and pipe. Worked perfectly and now have clearance to install a dipstick.

 

Sorry, I just couldn't resist.....

 

Ajr2820 where are your front brake lines? I kept mine in stock location but that means threading between header pipes. Did you reroute?

 

For what it is worth, I have a BBC in my 91 OCC, and I rerouted the brake lines to get the most air between them, and the headers. I also put an insulating fiber tube around them anywhere I thought it might get a little warm. The path is a little tortuous, but I have no trouble with the fluid cooking.

If you need to make bends in the oil dipstick tube at 90 degrees to each other, put one end of the dipstick in a vice, and twist it about 10-15 times. It will go around all bends in the tube. It will be a little shorter, but not much, and that will put a couple of ounces of oil in the sump. You can cut a little off of the top end of the tube to compensate (measure dipstick before and after).

 

Thanks Fred. I like the heat wrap idea for the brake lines. Already solved the dipstick tube issue with some blunt force.

 

I installed a Hydroboost brake booster. It runs off of the power steering pump. If you manage to get a low vacuum cam, it makes the brakes really responsive. You can get lines to install it from Rock Auto. The only issues are the mounting plate, and the eye for the brake pedal. I ended up welding an eye from a vacuum assist booster to the hydroboost that made it the same length as the vacuum booster for the car. The plate must pretty much match the mounting end of the vacuum assist unit. Mine was flat, and they are available on ebay for $25. If you must replace it, the tool (special oversized socket) for removing the mounting plate is $38+8 shipping.

 

The brakes lines are a little different from yours. I ran them along the frame rail, and go in front of the headers, then under the engine along the cradle to the other side where it follows a similar path around the front of the header on that side. After going back past the upper arm pivot, it goes along the frame rail, and to the connector at the flexible hose for the brake caliper. I used a tubing bender to shape the lines for clean bends between the straight sections. The lines are clamped to the frame at various points to stabilize them.

My proportioning valve is attached to the MC instead of to the frame. You do not have to move yours, unless it is unreasonably close to the header. Just route the lines so they look nice, and stay close to the frame, and away from the headers. Professional bends are not difficult, and the tool for bending them is inexpensive. You can lay out the design with a piece of safety wire, or ceiling hanger wire. You may want to make the one under the engine from 2 pieces, and use a union to join them. You also need a tubing cutter, and flaring tool. You should be able to borrow the flaring tool from one of the parts stores. After you mock up the lines with the wire, you can measure the lengths of the lines, and get brake lines of various lengths from the parts store to closely match the lengths you have determined. An inch or so either way can be compensated for with a couple of bends here and there. A single coil in the line also allows for expansion and contraction without stressing the line.

 

My engine is not back in the car yet. Sorry. Can't help with that one.

 

Pretty easy. Weld an overflow plug in the oil pan.

 

After all the wringing of hands and gnashing of teeth, I finally got a new oem style dipstick tube installed and the dipstick doesn't even go into the block! Not sure if it has anything to do with the 7 quart Milodon pan and related aftermarket parts. After trying a few different angles and different dipsticks I tried a coat hanger. Even that won't fit into the oil pan. WTF? Saw an older thread where a number of folks had the same problem but there was no remedy disclosed.

 

Is there a windage tray blocking the dipstick?

 

Just heard back from original owner who had the motor built. He remembers there being a hard time with getting a dipstick to fit “because of a windage tray or something”. Unless there is a relatively easy way to make it work knowing there is a windage tray issue, I’ll probably just cut the dipstick so I can install the cap and move on. I’m too embarrassed to disclose how many hours Ive spent on this problem.

 

Remove the pan and see what the obstruction is and then work around it. Not having a means to check oil will not end well.

 

Now that I know what the issue was thought I’d give closure to my old post. It took me almost 4 years but pulled motor over the weekend. It was much easier to change the oil every few hundred miles, especially when I only put 300-400 miles on per season, than pull the motor/tranny. After a quick inspection the windage tray was shimmed about 1/2”, which is what dipstick was running into. At first I tried removing the shims to allow the tray to sit higher and give clearance to dipstick but it was shimmed for a reason. Without the shims the rod bolts would hit the tray.
I massaged the bottom of the dipstick tube through a brake line bender to allow it to clear below tray and we are in business.