ardo00

I have a 1968 442 with a 400 engine. The car is all together and I found out that i have a cracked exhaust manifold. I have purchased new manifolds and plan to replace both. The passenger side is easy to get to and is not problem. The problem I have is the driver side one. Does anyone have any tricks on how to change it without taking the engine out and ripping the car all apart?

Olds64

The driver's side manifold should come out just as easily as the passenger side manifold. I would think there would be more room since the AC components are on the passenger side.

Make sure you get a can of PB Blaster and spray all of the bolts liberally the day before you plan on removing the manifolds. FWIW, you could have had the cracked exhaust manifold repaired at a good welding shop. I've had many cast iron intake and exhaust mainfolds welded.

droldsmorland

Agreed with Olds64. It comes out ok. You need to finagle it out around the starter & frame but it will come out. It helps if the head pipes out of the way too or at least loose enough so you can work around it. Don't forget to apply copper anti-seize to the bolts. Back off on the torque rating 10% if anti seize is used. Re-check fastener torque after a few thermal cycles.

Octania

Remember that you can just remove the motor mt thru bolt[s] as req'd and just lift the engine A LITTLE. Say, with a floor jack. Just move and remove as much as necessary...

And, '68 xst mans are 1-yr only, so I would not scrap a lightly cracked one. Or, any one.

joe_padavano

If you care about correctness, replace with the X/Y manifolds, otherwise I'd go with W/Z manifolds. I've never had a problem on the driver's side, but it's pretty easy to unbolt the steering shaft if it makes you feel better.

ardo00

The car does not have A/c. So you guys are telling me the best way is to go out the bottom of the car?

Hairy Olds

Having changed both on my 67 442 the easiest way on the drivers side is to remove the starter and bracket. Pull the head pipe out of the way and snake the manifold out.

droldsmorland

Correct from the bottom. Get er' up on jack stands and ratchet away. Disconnect the battery neg to prevent any shorting around the starter.

And as Joe mentioned the W/Z manifolds from 69 up have siamesed center ports where as the 68s have a common center port. W/Zs are easier & cheaper to find and are being reproduced and worth a couple of ponies to boot.

lunaboy

The drivers side X 389269 LH; Cutlass, 442, some VC and SX is the same pn for 66 - 67 . The RH ribbed one is hard to find. I have a 68 date X 389269 LH; if its the one you need.