Good day oldsmobile family . I'm new here so thanks in advance for your guidance. I'm a home engine builder on a budget but know my way around an engine kind of . I'm rebuilding a 73 455 , it had "E" heads on it when i bought the engine and also with the purchase I was given a set of Ka heads with 2.07 valves and a new elderbrock 7112 cam . I read that the heads are to not go past .500 lift with stock valvetrain, the cam states it has .496/.520 lift . The cam calls for elderbrock #5712 valve springs which are discontinued. What valve springs would be good to use on which heads ? And also I've gathered that I should cut my valve guides down to avoid coil binding and use the positive valve stem seals ? Are my stock push rods good for this as well? The 455 is going in a 79 cutlass daily driver with an occasional tire chirp with an awesome choppy lick is the goal .

 

Welcome!
Unfortunately that cam is not a good choice for an 8.0:1 455, kinda big.
I’d consider a smaller cam. That would also help getting the right parts for the rest of the valvetrain.
However if you’re dead set on using that cam it would be best to have your local machine shop check the guide to seal to retainer clearance, and also set the right spring pressure with the right spring. If all this isn’t checked thoroughly, cam failure is likely.
And no you’ll probably need different length pushrods as well.
Hope this helps.

 

Another thread about valve springs ?
Machining the valve guides will not keep the springs from binding. You need the correct valve springs, set at the correct installed height and capable of valve lift +.060" to keep from having the coils bind up. You also need to know if the heads originally were machined for valve rotators.
Perhaps go back to your other thread about "Valve Spring Help" and reread it.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...g-help-171766/

 

welcome.

You might consider milling the heads, and running thinner head gaskets to bump up the compression a little. Of course, then you might have to kill the intake for a proper fit. Maybe custom pushrods.

Where does it end?

 

Thanks for the reply guys much appreciated! I'm learning more as I continue to use the forum . Using it on my phone Didn't know I had reply to my other thread as well . "Cutlassefi" I've heard or read your name here and on YouTube alot , thanks for replying. And no I'm not dead set on using that cam it was given to me so figured I'd try to save a little $ where I could , but beginning to see its best to just buy one that fits into the under .500 lift category but still gives me nice low end torque and sound . Any recommendations. Thanks

 

You should first make sure what pistons the engine has before assuming it’s a 73. E heads came on 1970 engines so if the heads were original to the engine, it’s a much higher compression than a 73

post a pic of the piston tops…we’ll tell you what you have

then you can decide on a cam.

 

Canadianolds my friend how are your today thanks for your interest in helping I greatly appreciate it . Here are some block piks of block ID tab on driver side under head location, on top of block behind timing cover and back of block beside distributor. The head ID numbers. And some piks of the piston it has a C on top and an F on the bottom not sure if them letters mean anything. O and one more thing that has me thinking I f**cked up , I've ordered two sets of piston rings, reason being is the first set the top ring took a .26 filler gauge and second ring took like .28 filler gauge when I checked them in the bores . ( three randomly chosen) so I thought I had the wrong rings second set same thing . What's going on ?

 

Definitely a low compression factory piston.

What rear gears and transmission/ TQ converter does the G body have that its going in?

 

Std bore on that should be 4.125. Ring width is 5/64, 5/64, 3/16. Very basic ring pack.

 

I think I got the piston ring situation under control I took my micrometer and made sure it was level all the way around the bore , may had been a little off but I got it to .022 ? Only checked in 1 Bore kind of busy today . Could these mahle's be pre set ? What's the max ? And I did do a 3 stone hone with fine grind stone before I home bathed it . But canadianolds my rearend is 2.29 gears in a 79 cutlass transmission th400 not sure on the torque converter. I do plan to lower to like 3.08 or 3.23 gears. The more I get into this I'm learning my 79 is not going to be the torque machine I was going for hopefully it'll chirp the tires tho .

 

Any 455 in a G body will be a fun car!! Build the short block correctly, with the parts you want. Cut the corners on the top half of the engine. It’s far easier to upgrade heads, intake, camshaft, etc later as funds allow.

 

Matt69olds you are right brah . Can anybody help me with this piston ring gap situation. Im Sure I'm not doing it right just making sure it was close to level I got a .026 feeler gauge to fit , down from a .030 . Do they make rings to where we don't have to file them ?

 

What is the part number on the Hastings rings ?

Unless your cylinders are in perfect condition and have no wear you are going to have larger ring gaps. Try measuring the bore down near the bottom where there is normally not much wear. With a 4.125 bore size even .001 wear in the cylinder is going to increase ring gap by over .003" If you are not going to bore the engine just stop worrying about it and put it together with the Hastings rings.

If you get file fit rings and fit them to the top of the bore they will probably be too tight at the bottom where there is no wear.

 

Billk I think the hasting rings part number is 661 .? Ok so fellas I know yall tired of my 21 questions lol but I tell you after this engine my next one will be a beast of an OLDS ! Thanks to you guys education ! I measured the lobes on the cam that was in the engine when I bought it the lobes are smaller on it is there any type of way to identify a cam ? I went threw my threads and seen I never spoke on the purpose of the rebuild . Once home I was going to just do all upper gasket from heads up . When I removed the valley pan I noticed #8 cylinder pushrod bent I want to say it was intake but not for sure I inspected everything and since the free cam came with lifters that's why I was just going to put that in with new pushrod. So I know that lifter is garbage so can I use the other lifter set and does anyone have piks of what a bad cam lobe would look like ?

 

You can probably tell by just looking at the bottom of that lifter where the pushrod was bent.

That should be correct

 

One more question and I promise I'm do e till I get the pistons in lol . The lifters that came with the 7112 elderbrock cam kit can I use them and just buy a good cam by itself? And again thank you all for educating me . It might be arithmetic to yall but until now it was calculus to me ! Thanks guys . Big OLDS Power!