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Just want to mention that method works "ok" for most hydraulic cams but the eoic method is the best. Depending on the grind some cams actually are starting to open at tdc. With the eoic method you can be sure you are on the bottom of the lobe. If you have the intake off it doesn't matter because you can look at the cam to see if the lifter is on the base circle .
so im finally back at this build after taking some time for deer season and the holidays. Got the rockers adjusted, installed my mondello windage tray ,installed the intake. Placed the valve covers and carb on for looks.Need to get some accessories so i can try to get it hooked up on my engine run stand. along with some plugs for the intake and carb.not sure what ill use for exhaust when we break it in but i got time to think about it.if anyone sees something im missing or should do differently im always open for suggestions .
One change I made recently was that I swapped out the casters for taller ones from Harbor Freight. I got really tired of having to jack up the run stand so my engine hoist legs would fit under it. That makes life a lot easier.
Hey Joe, did you ever end up hooking up the original switch and gauges on your run stand ? Im at a loss as to how its all wired there was no diagram that came with it
Hey Joe, did you ever end up hooking up the original switch and gauges on your run stand ? Im at a loss as to how its all wired there was no diagram that came with it
Yeah, I ended up having to do a lot of continuity checking and trial and error to get it to work. The switch is cleverly not labeled. I had to use a continuity tester to figure out which terminal was which. I'll try to get you a photo.
The gauges were especially troublesome, as they are faintly labeled on the back, but mine were completely wrong. I had to switch the wires to get them to work. A friend of mine got the same stand and his gauges were labeled correctly. I finally got real gauges for mine (Autometer).
Originally Posted by OLDSter Ralph
Where did you get the engine run stand ? What price range is it ?
thanks joe pics would be great! OLDSter Ralph i got it at walmart for around 300 there are some things that could be better but its pretty nice and a fraction of the cost of some stands i looked at.
ive been right at it the last couple days making some progress should be ready to fire in a week or two. got the key switch and gauges figured out and wired ,rigged up a cooling system ,fuel lines and carb.i found my 72 starter complete with the brace in a box of parts so will use that for now(how many of those braces got tossed?)
Yet another setback, spent several hours getting exhaust manifolds ready and gathering the parts to make it work only to bolt them on and then realize im using my toro oil pan (against the advice of others)needless to say the crossover pipe won't work .so its either ditch the pan and reinstall another, or wait and buy the headers i intend to use in the 80 cutlass .i doubt anyone will read this entire post but maybe will learn from my mistakes ,(or say f-that not getting involved with a build at any rate ill be back!
to keep moving forward i cut an old crossover pipe and added a length of 2 inch flexpipe .now i have a universal crossover pipe! of course this is only for break in.ive looked into headers for this engine in an 80 cutlass the best fitting options ive come up with so far are ARH or Dick Miller both north 1000 dollars .
to keep moving forward i cut an old crossover pipe and added a length of 2 inch flexpipe .now i have a universal crossover pipe! of course this is only for break in.ive looked into headers for this engine in an 80 cutlass the best fitting options ive come up with so far are ARH or Dick Miller both north 1000 dollars .
There is a lot of debate. I am going that route, for 10 to 15 hp and torque, some will say more, low ground clearance isn't worth it to me. My 88 G body has barely enough ground clearance with well bent dual 2.5" exhaust and Sanderson headers. Their BBO design looks like bigger primary tubes, probably 1 3/4" primary tubes and have an actual 2.5" collector. I have to run the SBO version or go Sanderson again or go Hedman. I need the SBO version, it has 1 5/8" primary which is OK but tiny 2.25" outlets, hard to say how negative it will be on 424 ci. The good part is going on my 70S, I can buy 2.25" or 2.5" pipes that bolt right on, you will need to modify or go custom. Good luck on first fire and break in.
Im building a 455 here shortly. Just got done with a wicked little 355 and I built a run stand last spring to fire it up. Even cheap turbo mufflers where loud lol. you may want to find a cheap muffler to use. Specially during break in you want to listen for noises and stuff during the critical time.
copper nice job on the stand .my plan is to turn that thing sideways and try to pipe it out the garage door to get the noise away from us.its funny thats the first thing my brother in law said when he seen it "we need to be able to hear the engine".
My cam shaft was already broken in (used) so i didnt need to break it in. It was loud with turbo mufflers lol . https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3p5xC34yQBs
My cam shaft was already broken in (used) so i didnt need to break it in. It was loud with turbo mufflers lol . https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3p5xC34yQBs
yeah really loud. Maybe should have recorded from the other side.
today was the day to fire it up ,nothing went well ,we had problems with the carb ,starter ,and battery ,but we got all that sorted out and finally started the motor it sounded real good but overheated we could only run it at about 2000 rpms for 10 minutes max and temp was at 240 so we had to shut it down.we did set the initial timing to 16 degrees btdc but didnt have time to play with it .after tweaking a few things we refired it ,but again only ten minutes and overheated .so im done til i figure out why it gets so hot .i have my old radiator from the 72 hooked to it with a clutch fan and 2 other fans blowing on the radiator as well as it being 25 degrees out garage doors wide open.any thoughts on where to start?maybe bad thermostat? maybe the rad isn't efficient enough ? thanks to all who have hung in here with me on this .
Looks like you had the vac. Adv. Disconnected ..it really needs it during break in the low load high rpm needs alot if timing initially .Hook it up and watch it run cooler ..just from what i can see atleast
Thanks I’m going to try that tomorrow ill Hook it to manifold vacuum and advance the timing to 18 and see what happens . I hate it that we didn’t get the proper break in time but I guess that’s how it goes .
You can also buy a cheap curve kit from autozone or orileys and throw the lightest springs on it so the timing ramps up real fast and comes in right off idle all in by 1800 rpm. Keep in mind at those RPMs and no load you can run a lot of timing and not run into issues its underload where timing and pre ignition come into affect when cylinder pressures spike creating heat.
Last edited by coppercutlass; Jan 26, 2019 at 06:56 PM.
Hey Jeff, do you happen to have a 3 row cross flow rad around ? That's one thing I would try, they seem to flow much better as the thermostat begins to open.
I see the second video has a cross flow on the stand now, may need a 3 row, the fins don't look so healthy either. Just my thoughts
If you can run it outside, leave the drain on the radiator open,and have a continuous flow of water from a hose in the radiator. Obviously this isn’t the best time of year to have the garden hose out. I assume you have all the air burped out of the cooling system?
eric thats all i have for an extra radiator for now your right about its condition .matt i considered that option it may be above freezing today so i think i will try it ,with more advance i might just get through this break in process .thank you all for the help ill keep you posted
Just not happening ! Hooked up the vac advance set the timing at 18 btdc filled with cold water opened the draincock and provided a steady stream of water and it started puking out hot water inside of ten minutes it’s like there’s is no water cycling through the engine going to remove the thermostat and hook water hose directly to the water pump and exit it through the top hose
at any rate ill be back!
