442craig

I agree and that's what I'm going with. Should have it back together in the next few days. Stay tuned!

Thanks guys!

Craig

442craig

I don't believe he re-tapped the heads.

MDchanic

I said the same thing, though I will admit that YouTube is a slightly lower quality sound transmission technology than two tin cans and a piece of string.

- Eric

442craig

It is perfectly in sync with my "tin ear"

gearheads78

Updates? We need to know

oldcutlass

X2?

442craig

Sorry for the late reply. We took .050 off the poly locks that were hitting the valve cover baffles. Put it all back together. Same noise. I found a few threads where guys were talking about roller rockers hitting the stock valve covers. I am getting a new set of chrome covers from Bernard Mondello that are supposed to have 1/2" more clearance. The problem is I have AC and have been told I will have to modify the bracket some. One problem leads to another! Could be worse, I could be pulling the motor, right! I am waiting for the covers. I will update when they are installed!

Thanks for the inquiry!

Craig

70cutty

Why not just run the motor without valve covers and see if that's the problem??

442craig

Makes a big mess on a clean engine and I have a PIA neighbor who barks at me when I fire it up. We are 99% sure that it is the problem.

70cutty

What rockers are you running?

442craig

Howard lifters and I think Comp rockers

70cutty

how about pushrods. Are you using the ones that came in the kit with rockers?
If you are check all your pushrods, that could be the problem, as I mentioned 60-70 posts ago, this is coming up as a problem more and more.
The pushrods supplied in the kit are made out of softer material than rockers and the tips are getting damaged. Chewed, flattened, etc.
I had ticking coming from the top, Compcam magnum kit, turns pushrods were getting damaged. Installed crome moly pushrods and no more problems.

Sampson

I hope this is the solution to your problem! Nothing worse than trying to sort something like this out on a new engine. Just seems like if it was a Rocker hitting the cover it would hit it all the time. Keep us posted.

MDchanic

Wait a minute.

You took 0.050" off of all 16 nuts, and then you ordered new valve covers, but you never ran it with the valve covers off?!?

Put down some old blankets and let 'er rip!

What do you care about some neighbor? What's he gonna do, call the cops? Unless you live in Switzerland, there's nothing the cops can do about some crazy person who says you started your old car.

- Eric

442craig

Push rods are custom.

Eric, I like your style! I had the engine builder over and I am going with what he is recommending. When I swap the covers I'll fire it up before I install the new ones. Maybe you can call my neighbor while I'm running it to distract him!

Craig

dc2x4drvr

If the tall valve covers delete all the noise, get ready to do a lot of fabrication to fit the a/c compressor bracket over the top of tall valve covers..

70cutty

Man, I hope it works for you. That's how my 350 was after the rebuild.
Spent all that money, put the motor in the car, ticking noise, pull it out. Checked everything, turns out cracked flex plate. Put the spare of my 455, put the engine back in the car, drove it for 200-300 miles, different ticking noise, after checking everything it turns out pushrods.

It sucks having problems on a new engine and not knowing what it is, it was driving me crazy, couldn't sleep for days.

I sincerely wish you best of luck man.

cutlassefi

Comp makes a poly lock that's .125 shorter. If you used that you wouldn't need the different valve covers. Then you wouldn't need to modify your brackets. Then you could see if that was really your problem, all for about $25.00. See how that works? Your engine builder should've known what's available, or at least checked.
I'm wondering who the stubborn one is here.... hmmmmm.

Just sayin.

442craig

Hopefully these will help! If they don't I'm seriously considering turning it into a glass top coffee table!

Wish me luck!

Stay tuned!

Craig

VinMichael

wonder what happened

RROLDSX

Any chance you've got some plug wires reversed? It sounds to me like it might be running on 6 or 7 cylinders. Just something to check on. Good luck!

442craig

Well, got a call from the builder. Apparently the mysterious noise was over sized rod bolts! He used ARP bolts and the nuts are oversized and barely hitting the block. Nothing damaged and should have it back together this weekend! CANT WAT TO HEAR IT ROAR AGAIN!

Thanks for everyones input, wish I had a parting gift!

Craig

gearheads78

I knew there was no way that was top end. Glad he found it before any real damage done.

coppercutlass

My only worry is how was this not caught ? ! Id be scared of the rest of the engine personally.

oldcutlass

x2, one of lifes little detours.

442craig

Naw, I'm in good hands! He knows what he is doing!

coppercutlass

If he knew what he was doing how was this not caught ? I have ran into bottom end issue issues before and I usually caught them by spinning the rotating assembly a few times . Im glad he took care of it but im still seeing red flags personally.

tru-blue 442

Glad you got it figured out Craig.
Like Eric said, I knew it was in the bottom end.
That engine sounded like Hell.

442craig

It idled fine it was when it was revved up. tight tolerances!

442craig

A sigh of relief!

Thanks!

MDchanic

Thank Heaven. Glad you got it sorted!

- Eric

442Classic

Once the noise is worked out take a look at the 1976 AC brackets. It is stamped pieces. You will have to fab up the bracket that supports the rear of the A6 compressor. I have them on my 1970 442 running an A6 compressor and an under dash AC unit from Nostalgic Air.

droldsmorland

X10 How the hell did an engine builder miss that one. Youd think while barring the rotating assembly over during engine assembly youd a caught that one. Id want to see everything... block, crank, bearings etc...! Normally when one uses larger hardware you clearance the pan rail to accommodate etc...Im just sayin.

Smitty275

The pan rail isn't where it was hitting. It was hitting the bottom of a cylinder bore. Most likely #7 or #8. I've seen this issue when using aftermarket rods with cap screws. Never seen it with stock rods and ARP bolts w/nuts though.

pogo69

that must be one big nut...or you got 'screwed by a big nut'' hope no damage

boese1978

How can you say that with a straight face? I'd be po'd. If the bolts were hitting the block there is "damage"......period.

cutlassefi

Me too. I wonder if he found something else and just said it was that.
Anybody got a bottem end pic of a stock rodded 455 with ARP's? I don't think that was it but it's good he's willing to fix whatever it was.

442craig

Ok guys,

It was a mistake, the engine is fully warrantied. He is fixing it. Call off the dogs! Just food for thought for future engine builds!

Thanks,

Craig

pogo69

newer arp nuts are shouldered and do extend a little more on the stud, if he used the wrong studs if thats possible i could see the end of the stud scrapping on the cylinder...i just wonder if he failed to torque the caps down

442craig

Thanks for the tip! I'll look into it!

Craig