Basic tune up specs - 66' Toro 425

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Old January 31st, 2023, 05:15 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Sugar Bear
Norm, Sounds like your paying the price of living in coastal paradise!
It's a peculiar rust though. It remains as surface rust & doesn't take much to remove it; yet, that depends on the type (quality) of metal. Anything I replace I use Stainless Steel 314.
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Old January 31st, 2023, 05:19 PM
  #42  
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I constantly fought point corrosion on a H-D Sportster when I lived in California. Constantly heating up, after shut down (I learned) the points enclosure formed moisture (after shut down). Carried crocus cloth in my tool bag all the time.
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Old January 31st, 2023, 08:41 PM
  #43  
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Glad you're up and running again.

The corrosion isn't unusual on older parts, but I still like old stock ignition parts over just about any modern product. Exceptions being NAPA Echlin and Standard Motor Parts/Blue Streak. After two coil failures I'm a little leery of Accel, plus their points have really heavy spring tension that wears the rubbing block quickly. Good for high-rpm operation, you just have to set them more often.
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Old February 1st, 2023, 04:00 AM
  #44  
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Just wondering, must be pretty common to get corrosion on the points. Sandpaper an acceptable way to remove the corrosion?
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Old February 1st, 2023, 04:08 AM
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Sandpaper is acceptable - ~200grit - 300grit; emery cloth or crocus cloth is good, also.
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Old February 1st, 2023, 04:21 AM
  #46  
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Various factors contribute to point corrosion - how often the vehicle is started, driven long (cruising) distances, versus short distances, constant burn-outs, constant heat build-up then shut-downs (e.g. constant running around turning vehicle ON/OFF repeatedly for short distances), style of driving, quality of materials & environment. Points are not expensive in and of themselves. With practice you can replace points in a heartbeat and maintain good performance of your vehicle - they're basically the life-blood of the ignition system. I generally change mine once every two years based upon my current driving style (daily driver). As the rubbing block wears, points need to be evaluated and simply re-setting them and maybe a brush of emery cloth - done.
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Old February 1st, 2023, 10:56 AM
  #47  
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You want really fine abrasive to dress the point contacts. You don't want to remove any more than necessary. A light pass with crocus cloth if you have it, or every tuneup tools kit should have these.



While sorting tools last week I found several of these things stuffed in various tool boxes.☺️
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Old February 2nd, 2023, 08:50 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Vintage Chief
Sandpaper is acceptable - ~200grit - 300grit; emery cloth or crocus cloth is good, also.
I wouldn't get near a set of points with 200 or 300 grit. Emery would be the minimum and Crocus would be preferred.

Originally Posted by Vintage Chief
Various factors contribute to point corrosion - how often the vehicle is started, driven long (cruising) distances, versus short distances, constant burn-outs, constant heat build-up then shut-downs (e.g. constant running around turning vehicle ON/OFF repeatedly for short distances), style of driving, quality of materials & environment. Points are not expensive in and of themselves. With practice you can replace points in a heartbeat and maintain good performance of your vehicle - they're basically the life-blood of the ignition system. I generally change mine once every two years based upon my current driving style (daily driver). As the rubbing block wears, points need to be evaluated and simply re-setting them and maybe a brush of emery cloth - done.
When the rubbing block wears, you adjust them with a dwell meter. A set of points can last several years and most people can confirm that.
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