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Norm, Sounds like your paying the price of living in coastal paradise!
It's a peculiar rust though. It remains as surface rust & doesn't take much to remove it; yet, that depends on the type (quality) of metal. Anything I replace I use Stainless Steel 314.
I constantly fought point corrosion on a H-D Sportster when I lived in California. Constantly heating up, after shut down (I learned) the points enclosure formed moisture (after shut down). Carried crocus cloth in my tool bag all the time.
The corrosion isn't unusual on older parts, but I still like old stock ignition parts over just about any modern product. Exceptions being NAPA Echlin and Standard Motor Parts/Blue Streak. After two coil failures I'm a little leery of Accel, plus their points have really heavy spring tension that wears the rubbing block quickly. Good for high-rpm operation, you just have to set them more often.
Various factors contribute to point corrosion - how often the vehicle is started, driven long (cruising) distances, versus short distances, constant burn-outs, constant heat build-up then shut-downs (e.g. constant running around turning vehicle ON/OFF repeatedly for short distances), style of driving, quality of materials & environment. Points are not expensive in and of themselves. With practice you can replace points in a heartbeat and maintain good performance of your vehicle - they're basically the life-blood of the ignition system. I generally change mine once every two years based upon my current driving style (daily driver). As the rubbing block wears, points need to be evaluated and simply re-setting them and maybe a brush of emery cloth - done.
You want really fine abrasive to dress the point contacts. You don't want to remove any more than necessary. A light pass with crocus cloth if you have it, or every tuneup tools kit should have these.
While sorting tools last week I found several of these things stuffed in various tool boxes.☺️
Sandpaper is acceptable - ~200grit - 300grit; emery cloth or crocus cloth is good, also.
I wouldn't get near a set of points with 200 or 300 grit. Emery would be the minimum and Crocus would be preferred.
Originally Posted by Vintage Chief
Various factors contribute to point corrosion - how often the vehicle is started, driven long (cruising) distances, versus short distances, constant burn-outs, constant heat build-up then shut-downs (e.g. constant running around turning vehicle ON/OFF repeatedly for short distances), style of driving, quality of materials & environment. Points are not expensive in and of themselves. With practice you can replace points in a heartbeat and maintain good performance of your vehicle - they're basically the life-blood of the ignition system. I generally change mine once every two years based upon my current driving style (daily driver). As the rubbing block wears, points need to be evaluated and simply re-setting them and maybe a brush of emery cloth - done.
When the rubbing block wears, you adjust them with a dwell meter. A set of points can last several years and most people can confirm that.