Anyone have rod to block interference problem - Eagle rods
#1
Anyone have rod to block interference problem - Eagle rods
Started installing pistons/rods today.
This build is a 455 .030 over bore, minus .010 on crank, new Icon pistons, new Eagle rods. The story so far goes like this;
Put in #7 piston, assembly lube bearings and journal, torque rod bolts to the specified 63 ft/lb, spin crank a few times. Life is good.
Now install #8 piston/rod same way. Now when attempting first crank rotation, it stops dead. Turns out, #7 rod is hitting the bottom of cylinder #8.
Without #8 piston/rod installed, #7 was riding closer to the center of the journal and hence had no issue. When #7 is forced on its side of the journal, the area of the rod that the bolt threads into, clips the block at the bottom of #8 cylinder.
The rod side clearance is .011". The rods are installed in the correct orientation.
Eagle Tech support wants to see a stock rod to compare profiles. I can start that process on Friday as the old rods are at the machine shop and it's New year eve.
Anyone have this problem before?
Anything I might have done?
Can't believe I'm the first person to have a problem with Eagle and a 455 block.
George
This build is a 455 .030 over bore, minus .010 on crank, new Icon pistons, new Eagle rods. The story so far goes like this;
Put in #7 piston, assembly lube bearings and journal, torque rod bolts to the specified 63 ft/lb, spin crank a few times. Life is good.
Now install #8 piston/rod same way. Now when attempting first crank rotation, it stops dead. Turns out, #7 rod is hitting the bottom of cylinder #8.
Without #8 piston/rod installed, #7 was riding closer to the center of the journal and hence had no issue. When #7 is forced on its side of the journal, the area of the rod that the bolt threads into, clips the block at the bottom of #8 cylinder.
The rod side clearance is .011". The rods are installed in the correct orientation.
Eagle Tech support wants to see a stock rod to compare profiles. I can start that process on Friday as the old rods are at the machine shop and it's New year eve.
Anyone have this problem before?
Anything I might have done?
Can't believe I'm the first person to have a problem with Eagle and a 455 block.
George
#3
LOL what do I win
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...455-build.html
now if I could just remember my wifes birthday i would be good
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...455-build.html
now if I could just remember my wifes birthday i would be good
#5
Hey George Im in mass i sold you a ss3 ctr cap a while back.... sheesh your memory is worse than mine LOL
tell ya what hoist one for me tonite and Ill do the same for you Ive got some nice wachusett in a growler Ill be enjoying in about an hour
hope your garage is warmer than mine im at about 38 in the garage and 8 outside Brrr.. hope your 455 gets asembled easily from here on in !!!
tell ya what hoist one for me tonite and Ill do the same for you Ive got some nice wachusett in a growler Ill be enjoying in about an hour
hope your garage is warmer than mine im at about 38 in the garage and 8 outside Brrr.. hope your 455 gets asembled easily from here on in !!!
Last edited by RetroRanger; December 31st, 2013 at 04:58 PM.
#6
My memory is $h!t for sure, but I remember your first name from that time you helped me.
I'm already hoisting tonight, so I'll get up and make this one in your honor.
Cheers and the very best to you in the new year.
George
I'm already hoisting tonight, so I'll get up and make this one in your honor.
Cheers and the very best to you in the new year.
George
#8
Rod to Block to Oil Pump Clearance
We have a build going on the dyno next week, went through this problem a few weeks back, you need to grind the block at the lower bores. Here's a link to the post.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...embly-tip.html
I haven't done any strokers but would suspect the conditions to be worse with add'l stroke? This was a stock stroke build.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. You need to watch the rod passing the oil pump also. Ours was just touching the cotter pin on the relief valve spring. Made a very slight "pinging" sound after the pan had been installed!
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...embly-tip.html
I haven't done any strokers but would suspect the conditions to be worse with add'l stroke? This was a stock stroke build.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. You need to watch the rod passing the oil pump also. Ours was just touching the cotter pin on the relief valve spring. Made a very slight "pinging" sound after the pan had been installed!
#9
We have a build going on the dyno next week, went through this problem a few weeks back, you need to grind the block at the lower bores. Here's a link to the post.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...embly-tip.html
I haven't done any strokers but would suspect the conditions to be worse with add'l stroke? This was a stock stroke build.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. You need to watch the rod passing the oil pump also. Ours was just touching the cotter pin on the relief valve spring. Made a very slight "pinging" sound after the pan had been installed!
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...embly-tip.html
I haven't done any strokers but would suspect the conditions to be worse with add'l stroke? This was a stock stroke build.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. You need to watch the rod passing the oil pump also. Ours was just touching the cotter pin on the relief valve spring. Made a very slight "pinging" sound after the pan had been installed!
I'll be sure to check the oil pump as well.
Nice to have a heads up on that one. Thanks much.
George
#10
We have a build going on the dyno next week, went through this problem a few weeks back, you need to grind the block at the lower bores. Here's a link to the post.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...embly-tip.html
I haven't done any strokers but would suspect the conditions to be worse with add'l stroke? This was a stock stroke build.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. You need to watch the rod passing the oil pump also. Ours was just touching the cotter pin on the relief valve spring. Made a very slight "pinging" sound after the pan had been installed!
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...embly-tip.html
I haven't done any strokers but would suspect the conditions to be worse with add'l stroke? This was a stock stroke build.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. You need to watch the rod passing the oil pump also. Ours was just touching the cotter pin on the relief valve spring. Made a very slight "pinging" sound after the pan had been installed!
I'll be sure to check the oil pump as well.
Nice to have a heads up on that one. Thanks much.
George
Gofast,
I forgot to ask. Which cylinder bores needed to be relieved?
I've only gotten as far as knowing #8 cylinder is an issue. I'd probably expect
2, 4, 6 & 8 will be the same. I don't know about the odd number bores yet.
George
#11
Conn Rod to Block Clearance
Hi George, all 8 rods hit here, we just went ahead and notched all the lower bores beforehand!
One more item to "clearance check" is the space between the bottom of the distributor gear and the block where the oil pump drive comes through??
The customer's original dist gear was actually "rubbing" on the block. On the new distributor we set the end play (.005") and machined the bottom of the gear by about .025" for add'l room.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. Adjusting the dist end play to about .005" doesn't guarantee there will be room at the bottom, it really has little effect on the gap down there.
One more item to "clearance check" is the space between the bottom of the distributor gear and the block where the oil pump drive comes through??
The customer's original dist gear was actually "rubbing" on the block. On the new distributor we set the end play (.005") and machined the bottom of the gear by about .025" for add'l room.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. Adjusting the dist end play to about .005" doesn't guarantee there will be room at the bottom, it really has little effect on the gap down there.
#13
One more item to "clearance check" is the space between the bottom of the distributor gear and the block where the oil pump drive comes through??
The customer's original dist gear was actually "rubbing" on the block. On the new distributor we set the end play (.005") and machined the bottom of the gear by about .025" for add'l room.
P.S. Adjusting the dist end play to about .005" doesn't guarantee there will be room at the bottom, it really has little effect on the gap down there.
The customer's original dist gear was actually "rubbing" on the block. On the new distributor we set the end play (.005") and machined the bottom of the gear by about .025" for add'l room.
P.S. Adjusting the dist end play to about .005" doesn't guarantee there will be room at the bottom, it really has little effect on the gap down there.
Check the end play on the distributor itself first. You should have .012-.015 between the gear and the distributor housing.
Then install the distributor and clamp it down. Then grab the dist shaft and try to move it up and down. If you have play there then you're fine.
I've never seen one not fit correctly. Maybe you got an incorrectly machined distributor or block.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
68conv455
Big Blocks
18
January 3rd, 2009 08:40 AM