Anyone have rod to block interference problem - Eagle rods

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Old December 31st, 2013 | 03:04 PM
  #1  
rootney's Avatar
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Anyone have rod to block interference problem - Eagle rods

Started installing pistons/rods today.
This build is a 455 .030 over bore, minus .010 on crank, new Icon pistons, new Eagle rods. The story so far goes like this;
Put in #7 piston, assembly lube bearings and journal, torque rod bolts to the specified 63 ft/lb, spin crank a few times. Life is good.
Now install #8 piston/rod same way. Now when attempting first crank rotation, it stops dead. Turns out, #7 rod is hitting the bottom of cylinder #8.
Without #8 piston/rod installed, #7 was riding closer to the center of the journal and hence had no issue. When #7 is forced on its side of the journal, the area of the rod that the bolt threads into, clips the block at the bottom of #8 cylinder.
The rod side clearance is .011". The rods are installed in the correct orientation.
Eagle Tech support wants to see a stock rod to compare profiles. I can start that process on Friday as the old rods are at the machine shop and it's New year eve.
Anyone have this problem before?
Anything I might have done?
Can't believe I'm the first person to have a problem with Eagle and a 455 block.



George
Old December 31st, 2013 | 03:50 PM
  #2  
RetroRanger's Avatar
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I think eric jensen77 just posted about that recently and cutlassefi mark responded w a solution
Old December 31st, 2013 | 03:51 PM
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LOL what do I win

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...455-build.html

now if I could just remember my wifes birthday i would be good
Old December 31st, 2013 | 04:17 PM
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rootney's Avatar
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Retro,

Thanks for the lead.
If I read this in Nov. I certainly don't remember.
Where are ya? I'm in CT
Can I buy you a beer in person or Pay Pal? LOL

George
Old December 31st, 2013 | 04:53 PM
  #5  
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Hey George Im in mass i sold you a ss3 ctr cap a while back.... sheesh your memory is worse than mine LOL

tell ya what hoist one for me tonite and Ill do the same for you Ive got some nice wachusett in a growler Ill be enjoying in about an hour

hope your garage is warmer than mine im at about 38 in the garage and 8 outside Brrr.. hope your 455 gets asembled easily from here on in !!!

Last edited by RetroRanger; December 31st, 2013 at 04:58 PM.
Old December 31st, 2013 | 05:14 PM
  #6  
rootney's Avatar
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My memory is $h!t for sure, but I remember your first name from that time you helped me.
I'm already hoisting tonight, so I'll get up and make this one in your honor.
Cheers and the very best to you in the new year.

George
Old December 31st, 2013 | 10:39 PM
  #7  
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A friend of mine just went through the same thing when rebuilding a Chebby 350 motor.
Old January 1st, 2014 | 06:38 AM
  #8  
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Rod to Block to Oil Pump Clearance

We have a build going on the dyno next week, went through this problem a few weeks back, you need to grind the block at the lower bores. Here's a link to the post.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...embly-tip.html

I haven't done any strokers but would suspect the conditions to be worse with add'l stroke? This was a stock stroke build.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. You need to watch the rod passing the oil pump also. Ours was just touching the cotter pin on the relief valve spring. Made a very slight "pinging" sound after the pan had been installed!
Old January 1st, 2014 | 07:43 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by GOSFAST
We have a build going on the dyno next week, went through this problem a few weeks back, you need to grind the block at the lower bores. Here's a link to the post.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...embly-tip.html

I haven't done any strokers but would suspect the conditions to be worse with add'l stroke? This was a stock stroke build.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. You need to watch the rod passing the oil pump also. Ours was just touching the cotter pin on the relief valve spring. Made a very slight "pinging" sound after the pan had been installed!
Thanks,

I'll be sure to check the oil pump as well.
Nice to have a heads up on that one. Thanks much.

George
Old January 1st, 2014 | 07:49 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by GOSFAST
We have a build going on the dyno next week, went through this problem a few weeks back, you need to grind the block at the lower bores. Here's a link to the post.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...embly-tip.html

I haven't done any strokers but would suspect the conditions to be worse with add'l stroke? This was a stock stroke build.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. You need to watch the rod passing the oil pump also. Ours was just touching the cotter pin on the relief valve spring. Made a very slight "pinging" sound after the pan had been installed!
Thanks,

I'll be sure to check the oil pump as well.
Nice to have a heads up on that one. Thanks much.

George

Gofast,

I forgot to ask. Which cylinder bores needed to be relieved?
I've only gotten as far as knowing #8 cylinder is an issue. I'd probably expect
2, 4, 6 & 8 will be the same. I don't know about the odd number bores yet.

George
Old January 1st, 2014 | 11:48 AM
  #11  
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Conn Rod to Block Clearance

Hi George, all 8 rods hit here, we just went ahead and notched all the lower bores beforehand!

One more item to "clearance check" is the space between the bottom of the distributor gear and the block where the oil pump drive comes through??

The customer's original dist gear was actually "rubbing" on the block. On the new distributor we set the end play (.005") and machined the bottom of the gear by about .025" for add'l room.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Adjusting the dist end play to about .005" doesn't guarantee there will be room at the bottom, it really has little effect on the gap down there.
Old January 1st, 2014 | 12:34 PM
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Gary,

I'll look for that.
Thanks very much.

George in CT
Old January 1st, 2014 | 02:58 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by GOSFAST
One more item to "clearance check" is the space between the bottom of the distributor gear and the block where the oil pump drive comes through??

The customer's original dist gear was actually "rubbing" on the block. On the new distributor we set the end play (.005") and machined the bottom of the gear by about .025" for add'l room.
P.S. Adjusting the dist end play to about .005" doesn't guarantee there will be room at the bottom, it really has little effect on the gap down there.
Don't over think this.
Check the end play on the distributor itself first. You should have .012-.015 between the gear and the distributor housing.
Then install the distributor and clamp it down. Then grab the dist shaft and try to move it up and down. If you have play there then you're fine.
I've never seen one not fit correctly. Maybe you got an incorrectly machined distributor or block.
Old January 1st, 2014 | 08:22 PM
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Gary, Did you check the upper bearing ?
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