Been exhausting the search bar looking for a cure all to the seemingly ever popular oil dipstick tube mess, and so far the only luck I've had is the opportunity to buy another (my new one from ILT broke this morning while trying to install)

Went ahead and ordered a couple more from ILT so that I had a spare if I broke the second, but here's to hoping I don't. That being said, I've gathered I need to grind down the bottom two "ribs" of the tube, how far do I need to go? Second question, I've heard mixed reviews on freezing it, so while I plan on trying it is there a grease or anything I can stick on there that won't be bad for the engine? (assembly lube?)

For grins and giggles...would it be easier or more difficult to install this with the OE manifolds on? Currently, they're off but I feel like I'm fighting keeping the tube in the right spot more than focusing on equal pressure as I try to knock it into the hole.

Bonus points..is there a bolt-on tube option?

 

mine just tapped in with a hammer, i was skeptical about it

 

There are a lot of posts on how to install them, such as using a crows foot wrench against the bulge area and tapping the wrench.

The last one I installed I did with the headers on the car. I had to sand the bulges down as they were a bit too large to go into the block. Before installing the tube, I put some silicone around the bulge area just in case, then inserted the tube, and used a block of wood to tap the top of the tube VERY GENTLY. With the bulges sanded the right amount, the tube went in without a fight.

 

As said, the good tubes need mild sanding or filing to the raised ridges. I splurged on the pan mounted braided dipstick for the Canton 6 qt pan.

 

Once you know or have ground bead to a reasonable od, throw tube in freezer overnight, have your plan for installation and tools in place, remove tube from freezer, spritz bead with lube or sealer as you choose & promptly execute your install. On real, OE tubes they go in rather easily, repops are dependent on your verification and possible modification for a suitable od. If you end up needing to tap it in, have a suitable bolt available to put in top of tube to tap on so you don’t deform the tube. The bolt should fit easily in the hole and be short enough for underside of bolt head to rest on the edge of the tube. I just saw Kenneth’s post, yes, you can also tap it in on top of the bead with a crow foot, box wrench or suitable socket.

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I have used a flare nut wrench (or better a closed end wrench, if you have room to pull it off after install) then tap on wrench, so you don't run risk of kinking/damaging tube. Good luck!

 

As we've discussed here many times, every single aftermarket dipstick tube is formed too large at the two beads that press into the block. If you check the old and new with a micrometer or caliper, you'll find a significant difference in the O.D. of that area. On the tube for my 67 that I got from Supercars, the beads needed to be filed down 0.010" to match the diameter of the original tube. Once I did that, it pressed in smoothly and with no drama.

 

You have to remember the tube is only a certain thickness and what you sand off or grind off reduces the thickness at the bulge making it more easily to crack or break at that that point.

 

It will also crack or break if you try to force it into the block with those oversized beads. Once you get the bead into the block, there isn't a lot of load on it other than compression, which minimizes any cracking or breaking. Keep in mind that taking 0.010" off the diameter is only 0.005' wall thickness reduction.

 

Should I leave the starter and exhaust manifold off while waiting for the dipstick to arrive/installed? Really, those two things are all that are stopping me from getting the car back on the ground (assuming underneath isn't the preferred method of installation for the dipstick)

 

I would want as much open space as possible to access the tube port on the block. So yeah, leave all that off until afterwards.
It’s only time, right?

 

Oh yeah. I'm w/ Kenneth - leave as much room as possible. Patience.

 

Pretty sure Imma need Rosetta Stone to figure that out 😂

..ironically I thought I'd responded to this Saturday, but must not have let it confirm (you know, impatient)

I grabbed the file I have from my guitar box, I'll try this "patience" on the next tube rather than running it on the bench grinder.

 

Update on this...

The Inline Tube dipstick tubes came in today, and Dad had planned on coming over while I was at work and getting things done anyway so I had him address this. He said he was able to file it down a bit and get it in there. Its a little loose, but isn't going to go flying out..so I'll take that as a win. I'm sure as heat hits it, it'll expand. Otherwise, I may figure out a way to better seal it (silicone?) but at least now I'm not beating my head against the wall.

 

What you "may" be able to do is insert a tapered awl (or similar) into the end of the tube and ever so lightly nudge (tiny taps) the awl into the opening. It's possible you might be able to expand the diameter of the end of the tube just enough to get a better snug fit. Just a thought.

 

The end of the tube isn't the part that wedges in the block, and I'm afraid you'll be hard pressed to reach those beads with an awl. Silicone is the easy answer.

 

All the chrome tubes are like this except the Spectra brand. Use RTV or similar. I had no noticeable leakage with those tubes.

 

A little dab’ll do ya…

…

 

Was gonna jokingly call you old for that but then realized I know what you’re talking about.

 

I seem to recall reading that some have used LS engine dipsticks on a Olds, anyone ever hear of this? If it’s possible, I have no clue what modifications are needed.

If it works, that might be as close as any LS engine stuff will ever come to my car. Lord knows LS parts are easy enough to find.

 

I used a specter chrome tube with a little silicone, so far so good.

 

Ran some RTV around the base Friday..and when it fired up Sunday it pushed the tube out (not even as sealed as I thought)

Its going in for an alignment and to button up the AC, I've asked they address it there to make sure I have no further issues. If I felt like screwing with the starter again, I'd probably just take care of it myself but I think I'm a little too spoiled with the Mopar mini-starters I'd dealt with for years.

 

what do you still have left

 

regarding?

 

I used this little tool with my stud welder's slide hammer. Used the clamp to keep it on the tube.It's bent a bit more than when it was used, but it worked very well. I just touched the bulges to thin them a bit and clamped the nut around the tube just above them. A few light taps is all it took. With my long-tube headers, it had to go in after the headers were in place.

 

I'm not really sure what was used to get the tube stuck in there from the shop, but to this point I've not had any issues. That being said, I have made sure I hold the tube though when pulling the dipstick out..but thats more for peace of mind.

 

I do that too. I have not sealed the tube with silicone..........