hi every1 my cam change has just turned into a complete engine rebuild because the cam bearings are beat!!

i just broke down my block and im shocked i just found a 39736 crank with a big N and little ak under the N but the dam thing is all ready cut 20 and theres a little lip so it cant be polished, my 1st question is should i replace the crank with another N crank or just find a stock crank for the build?? how hard will it be 2 find a N crank and around how much for 1?? thanks again

 

You have a number missing, the last 3. That is just a normal 68-72 cast crank. Nothing special about it. See if it can go to .030, or if you can find .040 bearings. Should be very easy to find a different crank if needed.

 

I agree take it to .030 you should be fine. If you want a new crank. I think J-Chicago has extras.

 

I got a nice one off Ebay from TheRocket Scientist-Chris Witt

 

Give us your location. I'm sure somebody in your area can help you out.
As stated you can have the crank machined again, no problem.

Gene

 

I have a mid 70s 455 crank that is bored for a pilot bearing. However, you will be fine with .030" or .040" bearings.

 

If it's a mild performance build .030 or .040 will be fine. If you're going to make any amount of hp I wouldn't go that far.

I had a similar scenario recently. Called Clevite, they told me that the outer shell thicknesses are the same for std and .010 then .020, 030 and .040. If you have to go .040 scrap it if you're going to make any hp. Jmo.

 

your right there is a 3 missing i just checked it and half of its there they cut most of the last 3 off when they ballanced it

ill take the crank in 2marrow and see if it can go 30 it has a lip in 2 of the 4 so im a little worried, ill keep you guys posted

THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL THE HELP EVERY1

 

Sounds like some metal went through this block, as I've never heard of bad cam bearings!
Was the cam and/or lifters bad?? Would account for the damage described!
As they 'boil-out' the block, make sure they brush out and flush ALL the oil passages to remove any residue!
Apon start-up, use cam lube and oil with zinc to avoid a re-occurance!

 

yea medal went threw the block, the car sat for some months and i 4got 2 disconnect the coil when i started it and the cam lost a lobe, when i drained the oil i could see specks everywhere i fushed the block with 20qts of oil and 2 filters i was only going 2 change out the cam/lifters but the cam bearings were a little ruff so i decided 2 go threw it, ill never make the mistake of dry starting my car again!!!

 

How about going roller?

 

i dont have a extra 1000 2 spend on just cam/lifters, i would love 2 go roller but ive put way 2 much money into it in the last couple months, ive decided 2 use forged rods/pistons so my total is adding up fast

 

$675.00 with lifters, any grind.

 

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