Going to look at this tomorrow. What to look for/check. tia

 

Does it turn freely without binding?

Oil in it that does not look spotless like it was just added or changed.

Do the cylinder heads match? The one pictured is a J.

Freeze plugs in place, any popped?

Pull the spark plugs and look at their condition.

Look at the raised casting number behind the water pump next to the oil fill tube to confirm it is a 455.

Pull a valve cover to have a look.

Look on the pad on the block below the #1 spark plugs for stamped #'s and letters.

 

Thanks Sugar Bear! Never thought to check some of the obvious you've mentioned! It is said to be a 396021F, derivative 33M. That's all I know at this point. I assume look for "J" heads?

 

How much is the guy asking for it ? Make sure you get the harmonic balancer.
33M means:
"3" Olds division,
"_3" 1973,
"M" might mean Lansing built.

 

Asking $500 I am hoping for accessory brackets and such also.

 

Not an unreasonable starting price with all the accessories like starter, alternator, carburetor, distributor. fuel pump and perhaps exhaust manifolds.

 

Look for steel shim head gaskets, if present the heads were probably never off the engine. If they were off it may have been bored.

If you can look in through the fuel pump mounting hole into the front cover cavity and see a nylon tooth timing gear it is a safe bet it has not been bored. A cell phone borescope is useful for this inspection and to look into the cylinders for corrosion and/or wall scoring.

 

Taking notes as fast as I can Sugar Bear! I plan on getting a cell borescope on my way to look at it. I sure hope the gentleman will allow me to check all angles. I wouldn't think it would be to much to ask to pull the plugs, valve covers and fuel pump... It would be nice to find an untouched original. At least I would know what I have to work with. He said the engine came with a Cutlass that he bought years ago and since sold. Now selling the engine.

This is my maiden voyage for inspecting a used Olds engine out of the vehicle not running. Much appreciated info. Thanks again.

 

If the water pump looks to be a replacement, may be a good chance the timing chain's been replaced at some point as well.

the script valve covers are later-model I believe - '74 or 5 I think, maybe someone else with more knowledge on that will advise

as noted above, make sure both sides have J heads, that would increase your odds the motor's largely untouched inside

I had a '73 that I ditched the J heads from for a set of untouched 1970 big-valve E heads (442 heads) - that was part of my plan for building it though then I went a different direction and sold the block but kept the E heads....

 

If you plan on rebuilding it and it turns over, has steel shim head gaskets and no popped frost plugs you're very likely good to go.

 

Question: Where is the best place to check for the steel head gaskets. Would like to check that on my '71 455 in my VC.
Thanks.

 

Anywhere that you can see the edge of the head meeting the block, look into the edge. If the gaskets are replacements especially FelPro Blue gaskets the difference will be obvious.

 

Thanks, will try that!

 

Does the engine have a flywheel?