72 CS AC Compressor Clutch Assy Squeaking

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Old November 12th, 2015, 05:04 PM
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72 CS AC Compressor Clutch Assy Squeaking

Hello

Had our 72 Cutlass Supreme (Rocket 350) out today and notice a squeaking sound from under the hood. Upon opening it sounds like it is coming from the AC unit. The AC unit doesn't work and is not engaged. I'm guessing the AC clutch assembly bearing is going bad at a rapid rate.

AC Model is Frigidaire 5910781. Anyone know what the clutch assy part number might be and where I can find a replacement. Also any tips on disassembly would be appreciated.

Thanks
Dean
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Old November 12th, 2015, 06:25 PM
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rockauto has this for ~$53...if you search this site you find find a discount code for 5% off as well

OLDSMOBILE 1972 CUTLASS SUPREME 5.7L 350cid V8 Heat & Air Conditioning A/C Compressor Clutch

ACDELCO 1541 {#05914719, 5914719} Professional
Info
Engine VIN H; Engine VIN K; A6 compressor, CLU DRIVER
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Old November 12th, 2015, 07:08 PM
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Thank You

I see they have an AC Compressor Bearing for sale too. Is that a part of the clutch assy? Are they separate items that should both be replaced. Any way to narrow down one or the other. Will it free spin once I take the belt off?

Thanks
dn
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Old November 12th, 2015, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by dnohe
Hello

Had our 72 Cutlass Supreme (Rocket 350) out today and notice a squeaking sound from under the hood. Upon opening it sounds like it is coming from the AC unit. The AC unit doesn't work and is not engaged. I'm guessing the AC clutch assembly bearing is going bad at a rapid rate.

AC Model is Frigidaire 5910781. Anyone know what the clutch assy part number might be and where I can find a replacement. Also any tips on disassembly would be appreciated.

Thanks
Dean
1972 should be an A6 compressor. First, be sure that the noise is coming from the compressor. Since the A/C is not working correctly, you could stop the noise by removing the drive belt. You will need to do this anyway to replace the bearing. Assuming that it is only a failed bearing you will not need to replace any of the clutch. Specialized tools are required for disassembly. There are no workarounds on this. The GM number for the compressor pulley bearing is 907257 unless it has been revised. They are readily available. Get a manual which shows disassembly and get the correct tools.
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Old November 12th, 2015, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by dnohe
Thank You

I see they have an AC Compressor Bearing for sale too. Is that a part of the clutch assy? Are they separate items that should both be replaced. Any way to narrow down one or the other. Will it free spin once I take the belt off?

Thanks
dn
After you remove the belt the pulley will free spin assuming that the bearing has not seized. It should feel smooth without any looseness or binding. The front of the pulley is the drive surface of the clutch. The driven portion is the part in front of the pulley. After dis-assembly you will be able to tell what needs replacement.
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Old November 12th, 2015, 07:38 PM
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If the a/c is inop just remove the belt and worry about it when you go to repair the a/c.
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Old November 13th, 2015, 01:10 PM
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Thanks all - Belt is off and the noise is gone. I didnt have much time this morning to play with it other than to pull the belt, but will investigate further tomorrow. Being lazy and not walking out to the car, does this have a compressed fit clutch or is there a center nut that will allow the clutch to be free off the pulley. Will a local auto store likley have the compression removal tool to loan or rent if needed.

I can never recall the AC working in the car. Its likely that it was INOP last time my Grandfather drove it in 1986. Is there a way to test it or do I need to charge it up and see if it all leaks out in a week or so.

THX
dean
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Old November 13th, 2015, 06:51 PM
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Have someone put some gauges on it, and see if there is Freon in the system. If it is charged, then you will need to have it evacuated, to replace the bearing in the clutch assembly. Chances are that it has no charge, and it might need a flush and some parts replacement. The bearing is a sealed unit, that you can open up, clean, and re grease. If you have the proper tools, it isn't a difficult job, but without the tools, it is an impossible job. If the car is a driver, and you don't care about matching numbers, then just purchase a reman unit, and install it. You could probably sell the original compressor to someone that is looking to put a car back to original for more than the core charge on the replacement compressor.
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Old November 13th, 2015, 09:41 PM
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Post

Originally Posted by dnohe
Thanks all - Belt is off and the noise is gone. I didnt have much time this morning to play with it other than to pull the belt, but will investigate further tomorrow. Being lazy and not walking out to the car, does this have a compressed fit clutch or is there a center nut that will allow the clutch to be free off the pulley. Will a local auto store likley have the compression removal tool to loan or rent if needed.

I can never recall the AC working in the car. Its likely that it was INOP last time my Grandfather drove it in 1986. Is there a way to test it or do I need to charge it up and see if it all leaks out in a week or so.

THX
dean
There is a retaining nut which holds the driven part of the clutch on. You will need a thin wall socket to remove it. Then you will need a removal tool to remove the driven plate. There is also a specialized tool to install this part. Some Auto Zone stores will loan the needed tools. Be sure you get the correct tools for the A6. If it's been inoperative for 29+ years it is likely that it no longer has a complete charge even if the compressor would be functional with a replaced bearing. I have replaced pulley bearings on fully charged systems if there is sufficient access at the front of the compressor. Check to see if you can turn the compressor by hand. If the compressor has seized there is no use to repair the bearing. If you do replace the bearing, and the compressor has not seized or has any other problem, then it is time to check for a leak. This will require a partial charge. If nothing has been changed it is an R-12 system which has another set of complications due to nearly unavailability of the refrigerant. If you are unfamiliar with working on these systems get a factory manual which covers it; then read & understand all of it before starting or bring it to someone who is completely familiar with it and be prepared to write a big check. Successfully completing work on these systems without suffering any serious pitfalls if you are uninformed is like walking through a minefield.
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