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This may be a dumb question but what is a NASCAR style power steering pump?
It is basically a smaller universal pump and they come in different styles where some have remote reservoirs and different mounting styles, like front or rear mounting. Some even are long enough to go through a motor plate. Actually I see a lot of newer cars using this style, be inventive go to rockauto.com and look to see what pump will work for you. Almost all pumps have the same pressure, sometimes you have to change to a smaller pump pulley so you have enough pressure at idle. Did you go to the website link I had posted above, click on it.
Last edited by 74sprint; Nov 28, 2019 at 04:39 PM.
Neat I had never thought of that. I would have been nice to have that option before a put holes in my motor plate.
My current plan is to add an idler about half way between the PS and ALT to help stabilize the belt a bit.
In other news I am going to go with Aluminum heads as the cost of redoing my iron heads considering they are not ported is probably not worth it. Considering having Bernard Mondello or CutlassEFI do up a set of speedmasters for me.
Lastly I am planning on using two Quick Fuel Slayer Series Carburetors SL-750-VS. There price is really good and anything else I've looked at it significantly more expensive. Locally this seems to be the recommended carb for what I am doing. Anyone have any options positive or negative on using these carbs for this build?
Quick update. Engine is going to get the intake, blower pulleys and blower snout after Christmas locally. I expect it back in Feb. Then a bit more work to finalize the external parts before the big dollars get dropped on cam / heads / crank / rod / pistons
Question for those out there on Classic Olds. What would be peoples thoughts on the performance difference between the as shipped assembled edelbrock heads for my build vs. ported speedmaster heads from Bernard or CutlassEFI?
Question for those out there on Classic Olds. What would be peoples thoughts on the performance difference between the as shipped assembled edelbrock heads for my build vs. ported speedmaster heads from Bernard or CutlassEFI?
Porting level wise I would think a max effort port on the exhaust and mid? level on intake.
opposite.... the better your intake ports flow, the more power you will make at lower boost pressure. Olds intake ports are very weak flowing on all stock and aftermarket heads.
opposite.... the better your intake ports flow, the more power you will make at lower boost pressure. Olds intake ports are very weak flowing on all stock and aftermarket heads.
I would have thought that the supercharger would help with the intake flow. The 671 provides no help getting the exhaust out
In other news while my engine is quarantined I have been working on other things. Got this hyd. clutch assembly installed. In order to get the angles correct and not grind down the stamping in the firewall I had to have a bit of a funny angle on it. If anyone does this themselves keep in mind you will have to bend the clutch switch in order to clear the new clutch rod attachment to the pedal.
I would have thought that the supercharger would help with the intake flow. The 671 provides no help getting the exhaust out
In other news while my engine is quarantined I have been working on other things. Got this hyd. clutch assembly installed. In order to get the angles correct and not grind down the stamping in the firewall I had to have a bit of a funny angle on it. If anyone does this themselves keep in mind you will have to bend the clutch switch in order to clear the new clutch rod attachment to the pedal.
Of course the supercharger rams additional air into the intake ports, which is how it will make more power, but the more power the engine makes naturally aspirated, by improving the intake port flow overall, the more power it will make with the same boost pressure.
In other words, the exhaust flow is not typically what holds most engines back. Exhaust is under much more pressure on the exhaust stroke, as opposed to a piston sucking a fresh charge in with only the force of the vacuum of the port and the piston movement on the intake stroke, even using exhaust scavenging to help suck more intake charge in.
When you optimize the intake port flow and valve size, and your goal is 600hp, for example, you may be able to make that with 8psi of boost instead of taking 10-12psi of boost.. The airflow is the same to make 600hp, but there is less induction "stacking" and less drag from the supercharger as well.
Ok need some guidance. What is the difference between the Scat 4.5" stroke crankshaft listed for 7.100" rods and one listed for 6.800" rods? Both options list 2.200" as the rod journal size I would think that a crankshaft doesn't care what length rod it's connected to?
I ask because their website has listings for both?
I appreciate the help. Must be a typo in their catalog as their main listing shows the same rod length with both 4.25" and 4.50" stroke but their clearance crankshaft section lists 7.100 rod length for the 4.50" stoke.
In other news I have replaced all the front brake lines and am just finishing up relocating the battery to the trunk. Next up is cleaning up the under-hood wiring. Really looking forward to getting the engine back so I can get going on the build.
New crankshaft has arrived. Now waiting on the supercharger intake and then progress should be more rapid.
In the mean time I have been thinking about my fuel system. Currently I have a holley blue electric fuel pump and regulator. I'm thinking that up sizing that might be a good idea as an insurance policy. Does anyone here have a recommendation? Holley HP150 maybe?
Hello all,
progress has been slow but progressing. Currently I am at the point where I am about to decide on and buy the rest of the main components (heads, cam, rods pistons). I am thinking that it might be worth waiting a little longer and getting the rocket racing block and selling my J&S full girdle. This way there is no question the block is up to the task.
Pros:
-no modifying the oil pan to clear girdle
-exchange rate improvements has made the block about $1000CAD cheaper for me.
-should handle any amount of power I could practically throw at is with my 671 and pump gas.
*room for future growth
Cons:
-delays completion by about 6-12 months due to cost
-possible shipping and boarder related extra costs and issues
-adds $6300CAD + shipping to the build
Is there any downside I'm missing? Practically speaking do i need the extra strength?
Quick update. Supercharger setup is on it's way to me and my block from RR has arrived. During the wait I've done the following:
-Boxed the frame
-run new fuel lines and installed holly black fuel pump
-new break lines
-relocated battery to the trunk and run new battery cables
-replaces steering center-link and tie-rods
If anyone is interested I'll be posting my J&S full girdle and DMR main caps for sale on here shortly if I can't sell locally. PM if interested.
Next steps will be to get heads / cam / pistons figured out.
About the rocket racing block. This thing looks great. Noticeably thinker along the mains. I think a very good investment for what I am doing.
I am admittedly a "little" jealous of your setup and looking forward to great results from you at the same time!
Rocket block + supercharger = extra fun!
Keep it up, and more pics and updates are always appreciated
So I'm looking to find someone or place to build me a blower intake for 1970 rocket oldsmobile..rocket racing headed
..or is their a company that already makes one..looking at 671 on gas
After having the local guy who was going to make my blower intake fail to do so due to some serious medical issues I just bit the bullet and got an intake and drive kit from Dyers. Currently mocking it up on my old engine. That accessory belt is an AC Delco belt and a whopping 72" long. I am getting differing opinions if I need an idler around where the green tape is.
1) first school of thought is yes due to possibility of the belt jumping (belt slap) on a sudden engine speed change.
2) the second of thought is that with the ability to tension both the alt & PS pump I should easily be able to have the belt tight enough to not have any problems.
I'll update with more photos once I have the new blower snout on
Making progress is always slow, way to keep at it!!
As for your v-belt drive setup….
my $.02:
It is going to slip like crazy from the crank to every pulley. That long belt will turn into a burning, slipping rubber band when you start trying to accelerate it quickly.
Can you potentially go to a serpentine pulley from the crank and install matching ones on your driven items? With just a few well-placed idlers on a serpentine, you would be just fine, as they have a much better traction on the grooves than a v-belt. You don’t need a spring-loaded tensioner, just the correct tension from your adjustable alternator arm.
When running idlers on the v belt, I just don’t see it working unless you have one next to every pulley on the whip side, and even then, I don’t know if you can get enough tension on that long of a v-belt.
By the way, did you scrap the idea of running the Rocket Racing heads since the dyers intake is for stock Olds-intake pattern heads?
Last edited by Battenrunner; Aug 8, 2023 at 02:49 PM.
On this setup a serpentine setup would require even more custom pieces than I already have so not in the cards. As for the Rocket racing heads I was always going to use the OEM Olds style heads. That said there is another person on hear who was asking about a 671/871 intake for RR heads which would be a very cool setup.
As for the long V-belt I'll need to lookup what OEM application that AC delco belt is used in. I suspect its from a mid 60's Chrysler or Imperial as they sometimes had V-belt idlers with certain A/C setups.
This accessory belt setup maybe something I'll just have to try as a " f*ck around and find out" situation.
If I use an idler I'll likely modify the MOPAR one like below to suit.
The problem you have, is that your belt is running both accessories. The section of the belt that is running under the crank pulley only touches the pulley for about 90 degrees of the circle. Which may not generate enough friction to run both the power steering (potentially high load) and the alternator.
If you notice in the Mopar setup power steering alone touches the crank pulley for about 180 degrees. The water pump about 145 degrees. The alternator and AC unit touch for about 120 degrees times two belts. So total about 240 degrees. So perhaps if you can you can run two belts in a matched set and perhaps that will generate enough friction.
So after some researching the belt I have is the "Ac belt" from a 1955 DeSoto with a "firedome" engine. Not a lot of good pictures on the internet but seems to be a similar arrangement as what I am trying to do.
Belt is an AC Delco part: ADO-15715
Quick update. They Dyer snout hits the tri plate cover on my 671. As a result I had to give it a little trim with a bench grinder. In addition the oil fill hits the bottom of the blower as well. I gave my stock one a little love with a welder to make it fit. If you happen to have the curved tornanado oil fill tube that would likely work.
This will be my last update for a bit until I do the final order for the remaining engine parts.
Have you thought about a manual steering set up? It would be a lot simpler to run a two belt set up one for the alternator and one for the power steering. You can plug the oil filler tube with a core plug / freeze plug and fill oil through the valve cover. You can also get or make a short filler tube. A lot of guys like to have there accessories alternator, power steering more out of the sight line as in lower down than your currant set up. Peyton Hunt makes custom engine parts he is on face book, check out the work he does.
The project is supper cool looking forward to up dates.
Last edited by Bernhard; Aug 23, 2023 at 10:10 AM.
Unfortunately since my last post I had two involuntary job changes which reduced my saving to finish this. I really want the car driving again but family comes first. Also being Canadian the exchange difference has become more extreme which has increased the budget.
