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Upper, lower on the front will not make it. How about narrowed rear end, tub’s, back half, to put some tire under it.
if this is just a street car, all your going to do is burn off tires .
just asking to find why you need so much power and how you plan to use it.
Last edited by 64Rocket; Sep 12, 2019 at 11:59 AM.
Were I am we have a lot of half mile and roll race events at a local airstrip. So being able to start from a dig is not as important. I have read Dick millers book on hooking and launching many times and once the engine is in and knowing weights will be getting springs and anti roll bars to help it along. Plus there is a decent amount of high HP turbo & SC manual cars (V8 and smaller) around me. So lots of people to learn off of suspension wise.
Finishing more disassembly today I confirmed I have COMP Cams Magnum Steel Roller Tip Rocker Arms in the heads with 1.6 ratio that seems to be in good shape. So that's likely one less then I need to get new.
Besides flowing the heads one of my next steps is to have the blower intake and pulleys made and to do that I will send them my engine with crankshaft and heads only installed so they can make sure everything lines up. As a result I need to send it with the harmonic balancer I will use. I was thinking ATI since that what BTR book recommends and using the chevy pulley bolt pattern likely will make things easier. Summit seems to have multiple ATI options at various prices however besides steel vs aluminum I can seem to tell what the differences are between a lot of them. Anyone have any suggestions? Thinking this one (Aluminum + steel) https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...ake/oldsmobile or maybe this professional products one if people have had good experiences with it ( https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...iew/?rrec=true)
TCI Rattler is also an option. First ill state that yet i dont have anything to comment about it on running engine. Tho ill believe few have competence anyways to rate balancer other than it "seems to work". Atleast they got my crank balanced with it.
Only reason i mention this alternate option, is that stock pulleys work with it since they make Oldsmobile-specific one.
If you are having crank pulleys made anyways, get an ATI for internal balance on an Olds Snout size. Have your crank/rotating assembly internally balanced, and make sure your flywheel is also an internal balance one when you have it all done. You should go with an SFI flywheel.
ATI is the best in the business, and rebuildable if ever needed. Stay away from prw and other “sfi-rated” Chinese-made balancers. You are asking for trouble with those, as many have seen failures of the balancers with the ring coming off the hub!
Last edited by Battenrunner; Sep 13, 2019 at 10:41 PM.
If you are having crank pulleys made anyways, get an ATI for internal balance on an Olds Snout size. Have your crank/rotating assembly internally balanced, and make sure your flexplate is also an internal balance one when you have it all done. You should go with an SFI flywheel.
ATI is the best in the business, and rebuildable if ever needed. Stay away from prw and other “sfi-rated” Chinese-made balancers. You are asking for trouble with those, as many have seen failures of the balancers with the ring coming off the hub!
Would it matter if I got the steel outer shell vs the Aluminum shell?
If you are having crank pulleys made anyways, get an ATI for internal balance on an Olds Snout size. Have your crank/rotating assembly internally balanced, and make sure your flexplate is also an internal balance one when you have it all done. You should go with an SFI flywheel. Flywheel or flexplate?
ATI is the best in the business, and rebuildable if ever needed. Stay away from prw and other “sfi-rated” Chinese-made balancers. You are asking for trouble with those, as many have seen failures of the balancers with the ring coming off the hub!
Do you have first hand knowledge of this? If not then please don't post that.
I've used a dozen of the SCAT SFI balancers in recent years (which are Chinese), 0 issues, 0. Now would I pick it over an ATI? No, but they have their place. And the Scat has both bolt patterns, BBC and Olds. Something to consider.
Do you have first hand knowledge of this? If not then please don't post that.
I've used a dozen of the SCAT SFI balancers in recent years (which are Chinese), 0 issues, 0. Now would I pick it over an ATI? No, but they have their place. And the Scat has both bolt patterns, BBC and Olds. Something to consider.
Yes. I had a friend who ran one on a small Block Ford and it blew apart. I had another couple of builders who had bad luck with the Scat ones for small Block Chevy’s on dirt track engines, as the outer rings would move and slip around.
Bill Trovato told me he won’t sell or use them anymore, if that helps your confidence in the source, since it has to be a proven expert apparently.
Not saying that that they are all crap, and that all will fail, but cheaping out on the damper for an expensive Blown Olds build, or any higher level build is false economy. If you choose to use these in builds for your customers, good luck to them 5 years down the road when the rubber gets old and stuff starts to show problems.
Earl seems like a great guy with a really fun project, and I wouldn’t recommend anything for his build that I wouldn’t do myself in the same situation. Earl is going to go from a Roll, and sounds like some high speed runs are very normal, so he needs very good parts. This is not a build for someone who never mashes the throttle to the floor and never intends to race the car. Cheap quality parts, when pushed hard, tend to fail.
by the way, he has a TKO600, 5 speed tranny, so yeah, a FLYWHEEL
No problem, you mentioned both a flexplate AND flywheel that’s all.
And yes I’m all for quality parts. It’s just that all too often people read something on the internet from 10 years ago and all of a sudden it becomes bible. Maybe next time tell us your personal experience upfront. Just a thought.
Hi guys i got my current 20 year old possibly ported heads back from being flow tested. Results are below. See about right for basically stock. So whatever port or polish work
I am sorry for the disappointing results on the heads. The good thing is that you do know what you have now. My Mondello-ported Battens didn’t flow worth a flip either when first tested before a lot more work was performed on them....
My other question for you that I was hoping the shop checked was about the valve guide and valve seat condition. Are the valves sealing up well and not leaking when vacuum tested?
If they are at least solid, albeit not flowing very well, you can still use them for now, and upgrade to aluminum later. If the valves aren’t sealing well and/or there is guide wear, that upgrade decision towards aluminum heads might need to be sooner rather than later.
Last edited by Battenrunner; Oct 5, 2019 at 10:26 AM.
Is there really that much of a cost differential between a diesel block build and a big block build with the extra support needed for the big block bottom end? I'm genuinely curious.
Is there really that much of a cost differential between a diesel block build and a big block build with the extra support needed for the big block bottom end? I'm genuinely curious.
Less block prep on the diesel but more crank prep to make it work. 6 of one, half dozen of another but in the end the diesel is definitely stronger.
Or the ultimate would be a diesel block with spacers and 4 bolt billet caps with a crank like I have available, 5140 Billet, SBO mains, SBC Rods, 4.00” stroke.
For me the ability to use some of the parts I already had was only part of the reason for not going to the DX block. The USD/CAD exchange rate means any part from the US is about 25% more expensive plus shipping. The big one for me is that where I am in Canada I haven't seen a 5.7L DX block for sale in over 7 years and the last running Olds Diesel I saw running was my Grandparents Custom Cruiser which they sold in the early 90's. 455 blocks which were also popular as irrigation pump engines are still common.
Less block prep on the diesel but more crank prep to make it work. 6 of one, half dozen of another but in the end the diesel is definitely stronger.
Or the ultimate would be a diesel block with spacers and 4 bolt billet caps with a crank like I have available, 5140 Billet, SBO mains, SBC Rods, 4.00” stroke.
OK, kinda what I was thinking but figured I'd check with people in the know. Thanks!
So quick update. ATI Aluminum shell balancer, Canton Oil Pan, Milling HV oil pump and pickup arrived. I do have to say the Canton pan with all it's baffles looks to be a real nice piece.
I also dug into the engine a little more and it looks like I have an aftermarket timing chain. Not that I know what I am looking at, but it's condition seems fine.
My one question is what timing chain do I have? The only part number on it is SRS 3113A on the top gear and SRS 3113B on the bottom ? Is it Comp Cams maybe? Google doesn't seem to bring anything up with this number.
Slowing making some more progress on the engine. Got the pan off. Looks like my crank might not even be an N crank. No big N cast anywhere. Just one really small N (see pictures)
On the plus side it looks like the last owner used a milling HV oil pump so that was a good choice on their part.
Why use a used timing gears and chain. Step up buy new. Engines with power find weak links .Jmo I keep hearing shipping cost story though out this thread. Would it be cheaper to go get it? As in block choice and crank in the States. Just seems like why use a block that is weak compared to a diesel or the rocket racing block. Now you have heads that are not as good as there were thought to be. It all adds up to why. Build it right once then sell what you do not need to help recoup some of the cost. Good thread with lots to think about.
Yes, Earl, I think you've got it in post #72. It looks like the pin is working its way out through the back. I'm of the same mind as the others - go ahead and get a new timing set. I bought and installed a Cloyes double-roller set up that is adjustable for advancing or retarding spark. Less than a C-note, including shipping. and I won't have to worry about it, well, forever
So tonight I got my accessories mocked up with the motor-plate and learned some things
1) An electric water pump and high mounted accessories will have belt interference unless the belt is in a "triangle" (routed crank-.powerSteering->Alt->Crank)
-if the alt & power steering pump each have their own belt then they will hit the electric water pump motor.
2) Motor plates really mess with accessory placement. They are definitely designed for a drag car applications.
My next step is to put the heads back on and mock up the blower again to double check the belt will clear the bottom of the blower snot. If it clears i might consider making a belt guard. That V-belt ends up being close to the top of the oil fill.
I got all the pistons out last night and then put the head and intake back on to mock up the blower. I think everything will fit. My next step is going to be to get the blower manifold made. In the meantime I will be looking for recommendations for a hydraulic clutch conversion kit. If anyone has suggestions for ones that fit good. Let me know.
If you want a really good supercharged Olds build then go to this website and read all of it Olds 425 SuperCharged Build the best I found. As for the power steering pump you might consider one with a remote reservoir or a NASCAR style pump.
Ray
P.S. I have had my stock untouched "G" heads flowed, stock 2"x1.62" valves and they flowed similar to yours but at a lower lift. I also made 340 RW/Hp on the dyno.
Last edited by 74sprint; Nov 27, 2019 at 06:56 PM.
and I won't have to worry about it, well, forever 
