455 Piston questions
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Registered User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 27
455 Piston questions
Guys,
I have an olds 455 I am looking to build for my cutlass. I have a series of questions before I go too deep. First off I heard that I should be able to tell the difference between low and high compression pistons by the notch/notches in the piston crown. Does anyone know what the notches would mean? I have two notches. The reason I ask is that the bottom end looks pretty good. I don't want to have to replace pistons and all if not needed. I got my hands on a set of E heads, and would like to know what cam I should be looking for, if the pistons are low compression. I don't want to make a race car.... Just a little more oomph.. I plan on using the stock intake manifold with a qjet.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have an olds 455 I am looking to build for my cutlass. I have a series of questions before I go too deep. First off I heard that I should be able to tell the difference between low and high compression pistons by the notch/notches in the piston crown. Does anyone know what the notches would mean? I have two notches. The reason I ask is that the bottom end looks pretty good. I don't want to have to replace pistons and all if not needed. I got my hands on a set of E heads, and would like to know what cam I should be looking for, if the pistons are low compression. I don't want to make a race car.... Just a little more oomph.. I plan on using the stock intake manifold with a qjet.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Engine Builder
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 552
From: Louisville, ohio
For a street motor you'll want to keep compression to roughly 10:1 max. which will require premium gasoline. You can achieve this with either the low or high comp. pistons. Don't worry about the notches. Measure the depth of the dish. One that is roughly 1/4 deep is a low comp piston. Hi comp pistons were very shallow dish. IF you have the deep dish then you can cut the heads, use a shim gasket (now available thru M&J PROFORMANCE), and cut the intake to fit. Done right you'll end up near 10:1. Give it the right cam and 3.42-3.73 gears and you'll have a very respectable street machine.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 4,024
Like Big Jerr said. If you can feel a ridge in the cylinder walls above ring travel, the block should be bored. The piston ring lands could be worn also. It usually turns out that a "budget" job is not very satisfactory.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 27
I agree guys,
I have the block, heads and intake loaded in the back of my pickup. They will be going to the machine shop in the morning. I just don't want to spend huge money on this build. This is a weekend cruiser. I am really tyring to find the best combinations for a fun ride.
Thanks for the advice. As stated, I have taken that advice, and will see what the machine shop says.
I have the block, heads and intake loaded in the back of my pickup. They will be going to the machine shop in the morning. I just don't want to spend huge money on this build. This is a weekend cruiser. I am really tyring to find the best combinations for a fun ride.
Thanks for the advice. As stated, I have taken that advice, and will see what the machine shop says.
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