455 olds back pressure
My 2 cents: Try some octane booster. My '69 Toro used to diesel whenever I ran cheap gas, used to ALWAYS need octane boost to prevent it, regardless of timing or idle settings. Shutting off in drive worked too.........until a CV joint blew out.
Thanks for the tip
As a matter of fact I just changed gas stations as of today Was going to shell but unhappy with the points
now trying esso gas here in Canada
That cam is aggressive, but nowhere near as wild as the factory W-30 cam. If I remember correctly, the W-30 cam was 244* at .050, granted with much less lift.
You have a 4 speed, drop the idle speed a couple hundred rpm. Assuming the oiling and cooling system are correct, you should have no trouble.
If you really want to get it running good, find a shop with a chassis dyno and the desire to dial in the engine tune.
You have a 4 speed, drop the idle speed a couple hundred rpm. Assuming the oiling and cooling system are correct, you should have no trouble.
If you really want to get it running good, find a shop with a chassis dyno and the desire to dial in the engine tune.
Last edited by matt69olds; Aug 5, 2025 at 01:02 PM.
That cam is aggressive, but nowhere near as wild as the factory W-30 cam. If I remember correctly, the W-30 cam was 244* at .050, granted without much less lift.
You have a 4 speed, drop the idle speed a couple hundred rpm. Assuming the oiling and cooling system are correct, you should have no trouble.
If you really want to get it running good, find a shop with a chassis dyno and the desire to dial in the engine tune.
You have a 4 speed, drop the idle speed a couple hundred rpm. Assuming the oiling and cooling system are correct, you should have no trouble.
If you really want to get it running good, find a shop with a chassis dyno and the desire to dial in the engine tune.
The advertised duration for his cam is slightly less than a stock 442 (285) cam. It does make a little more power because of .050" more lift and faster opening and closing ramps. It should still idle like a stock 442.
............Just my two cents,
I just came back from a road trip across Canada and I noticed several Esso locations in Ontario had 94 octane gas. I looked and they have a store locator for it on their website but for some reason I couldn't manage to link to it. You should check it out.
Depends what "W-30" cam you are comparing. The 1966-67 (308) cam would be about 244. 1968-70 (328) would be about 260 degrees according to my guessimations.
The advertised duration for his cam is slightly less than a stock 442 (285) cam. It does make a little more power because of .050" more lift and faster opening and closing ramps. It should still idle like a stock 442.
............Just my two cents,
The advertised duration for his cam is slightly less than a stock 442 (285) cam. It does make a little more power because of .050" more lift and faster opening and closing ramps. It should still idle like a stock 442.
............Just my two cents,
Here's specs I got at a factory seminar in the early 1970s. There's a slight difference from anoldsman's numbers but either of our versions is enough to help you make your comparison.
285° advertised (part 400165) 220/222° at 0.050"
308° advertised (part 402194) 234/234° at 0.050"
328° advertised (part 402169) 244/244° at 0.050"
285° advertised (part 400165) 220/222° at 0.050"
308° advertised (part 402194) 234/234° at 0.050"
328° advertised (part 402169) 244/244° at 0.050"
Definitely preferred -- I believe it's also ethanol-free. However, I think it's only available here in BC, not across Canada. At least, I didn't see it anywhere once we got east of the Rockies.
really? send me a link to any ESSO in Ontario with 94. I want to know where they are
Just skimmed through here. In GENERAL there are things that can aggravate run on/dieseling, BUT, there is one thing that the engine absolutely needs to have that happen and that is FUEL. In most cases that fuel is available because the throttle plates are open slightly, exposing the idle & transition slots in the Venturi/throat to intake air.
This often happens because the idle circuits are not calibrated properly for a cam that creates lower vacuum than the carb is set up for. People are suggesting that you lower the idle speed because that will help close the throttle plates, thus not as likely to have moving air drawing fuel out of the idle slots upon shut off.
One other thing to try MIGHT be to add advance at idle through whatever means are available for your distributor and adjusting/limiting advance accordingly. In HEIs I usually run between 18-23* initial advance, as long as the car does not experience hot start problems, though those problems can often be in the starting system. With that much initial advance, the total has to be limited accordingly so that full mechanical brings you up to 34-36*.
You could also try connecting vacuum advance to manifold source if it is presently drawing ported vacuum.
Thats the .02 that I’ll throw in.
….
This often happens because the idle circuits are not calibrated properly for a cam that creates lower vacuum than the carb is set up for. People are suggesting that you lower the idle speed because that will help close the throttle plates, thus not as likely to have moving air drawing fuel out of the idle slots upon shut off.
One other thing to try MIGHT be to add advance at idle through whatever means are available for your distributor and adjusting/limiting advance accordingly. In HEIs I usually run between 18-23* initial advance, as long as the car does not experience hot start problems, though those problems can often be in the starting system. With that much initial advance, the total has to be limited accordingly so that full mechanical brings you up to 34-36*.
You could also try connecting vacuum advance to manifold source if it is presently drawing ported vacuum.
Thats the .02 that I’ll throw in.
….
Last edited by bccan; Aug 6, 2025 at 09:56 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



