Nice !

Congratulations on picking up one of Oldsmobiles best. If she lead a charmed life she just needs a freshening up...

Carburetor checks out, post #3 from Joe Padavano, here https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-442-a-140028/

And the heads are correct and the best.

 

If C heads are the best, why did Olds handicap the W30 cars with different heads? Were they afraid of making too much power?

 

It even has an original hose clamp on the water outlet...you may have hit a grand slam! Step cautiously, slowly and don't hesitate to ask our advice. Don't throw any parts such as alternators, starter, carburetor or distributor away and stay organized. Those engiwnes were beasts in stock format.

That is a premium fuel only high compression engine.

 

Point taken.

Yeah I think he scored !

The lowly 225 hp 455 I had could absolutely rip in the 4 door tank it came in. I can only imagine how sweet a hi comp 68 will feel in an A body.

 

"Yeah I think he scored !"

Wait until he finds a steel crank in it...!

 

Thank you everyone for the great support. I’m just about done with restoring my 69 4 speed car. It has a great running 350, 2 barrel carburetor in it now. I’m thinking about 2 months, I will start the engine tear down. I will make sure to save everything.

I’m in California, any recommendations for a good “Oldsmobile” machine shop

 

What are your plans? Asking about "the tear down", it may not need one unless you don't want stock. If you want stock get it running, do a compression test and see what you have. Remember you'll have significantly more HP and torque than a stock 442 with a 400G engine with the 455 in its stock rendition. Have you rebuilt engines before specifically Olds engines?

Did the 350/2V swap to a '69 455/4v and a fresh TH350 in a '69 Cutlass two door post w/AC many decades ago, even stayed with single exhaust due to financial constraints and the performance increase was B I G !

 

Do a compression test first. Send heads out for inspection. Hopefully crank is already drilled but if not will need to do that. Reseal, new freeze plugs etc. I will only replace what is necessary, keep it mostly original.

 

If compression is good you could leave them in place and replace the valve seals only. If the heads are removed you'll lose some compression due to thicker replacement head gaskets vs the factory steel shim gaskets.

 

Mill the heads the equivalent of the difference in gasket thickness, then everything is back to where it was originally.

 

Yes will compensate for gasket thickness

 

Excellent advice Matt, just didn't think of it at the moment...doh. Thanks!

 

I spoke to Bernard Mondello, I think I will be getting a set of heads built by him.

 

^^^^^^.