I’m thinking about purchasing this engine. It came out of a 1968 Oldsmobile 98. He said he ran it about four years ago and it’s been sitting since. He won’t go any lower than $900. What do you guys think?

 

 

I get to pull out the engine

 

I am thinking too much, especially if you have to pull.

 

20 years ago I bought a 1971 98 with its 225 net hp 455 for 1000 flat, just for the engine. It was a straight body original great running car with just over 100,000 miles.

Under the circumstances I think 900 makes sense if its strong running and just needs a timing chain... If you get to pull it can you attempt to start it and see how she runs first, or does that not matter to you because you are just going to rebuild her anyway... ?

1968 98s came with great 455s, 365 advertised gross hp. Close to 300 net hp. If it just needs a tune and is ready to drop in that's a good price...

 

It hasn’t ran for over 4 years. I don’t think I’ll have time to try to start it. I’m thinking taking it apart and hopefully just a reseal with minimal parts.

 

Hmm, maybe I can try to start the engine when I get it home.

 

Don't try to start it without oiling the cylinders and turning it by hand first. $900 with you pulling it is slightly high but by you pulling it care can be exercised to prevent damages and they are getting rarer.

 

My 67 sat 7 years untouched and started and ran great. Just by going off the pictures you posted. It looks like she will run and run well...

There is a gentleman I follow on YouTube his name is James Sorenson, he recently resurrected a 1970 SS396 Chevelle with a then replaced 1972 402 that sat from 1979-2022 he managed to get her to run and run so well, that its as quick as a new 72 Heavy Chevy would have been. Track tested and not rebuilt... just the basics. He has documented its progress with a series of vids. Engines from this era are incredibly resilient.

High test gas and the best of luck.

 

^^Sound advice^^

 

👍

As Sugar Bear mentions follow all preventative measures. I did as well with my then 67.

If this 98s 455 is all there, timing chain and throw her in. I knew of someone that took a stock Toro 425 put it into a Code 9 G body and ran high 13s at the track. 3 second reduction in et with only an engine swap. High-end 1960s big block Olds are stellar engines as is.

 

How many miles on the engine? Why did he stop driving the car? You might get lucky, or it might be a core but you don't know without some testing or getting it running.

If he lets you try to get it running before cash changes hands, make sure he's not going to raise the price "because it runs so good" or blame you if something turns out bad on it.

Price seems on the high side to me, if you can't hear it running and have to pull it yourself. I once saw a 350 advertised for $1200, then another ad by the same guy for a complete '72 Cutlass for $1100, with that $1200 engine included. Called him up, he said the car was garbage and all anyone would want is the engine...so he was charging $100 to pull the engine unless you took the whole car! Without going into a longer story, the car wasn't that bad and someone else is resto-modding it now. But I wound up with the engine and transmission after driving the car for an hour.

 

Thanks all for your advice

 

I think I’ll go and check it out. It’s 2.5 hours away.

 

I would buy the whole car and try to get it running at your house and if not too far gone, try to get it to drive

 

Maybe 900 pan to air cleaner.

 

Yes $900 from pan to air cleaner. Should I try to grab the long tail shaft th400?

 

First, for $900 the engine should be heard to run and you should be allowed to perform a compression test on it, since the warranty will be five seconds or five feet, whichever comes first. The 1968-only hot air elbow on the air cleaner will be worth a couple of bucks right there. If it's a factory dual exhaust car, it will also have the unique driver side exhaust manifold that is the only way to run duals on the 65-70 full size cars. The cap on the passenger side crossover is also unique to these cars (it's larger in diameter than the more common SBO cap). The long tail TH400 will not have a provision to drive a speedo cable, since the 65-70 full size cars drove the speedo from the left front wheel. Frankly, that speedo cable and sheath will be worth something also. I could use it myself if it's in good shape.

 

Joe I’ll check that out and will try to get it for you

 

Thanks for the info

 

'68 98 is a beautiful car. Is the whole car worth saving? Bumpers and lenses are one year only.

 

The junkyard 68 Toronado engine went 12:40s in my 69. Stock cast pistons and heads, Mondello 3-4 cam, Torker intake and headers.

I agree, it’s hard to beat an older high compression big block olds. Too bad the days of finding them in junkyards is long past.

 

I’d ask the guy what the plans are for the car once the engine is gone. If he doesn’t have definite plans for it, I’d wave a little more money and try to get the entire car. As others have mentioned, there are some parts you could use or sell to recover the costs, not to mention being able to pull it out at your leisure. Or the ability to hear it run before pulling it out.

 

Yes I see the benefits of getting the whole car. I just don’t have anywhere to put it. I know I’m taking a gamble. Been looking for 3 weeks and this is only the second one I found worth looking at.
Anyone need a bumpers or parts? I could try to get extra parts. Thanks

 

It’s a 4 door car that will need restoration. Odometer reads 21k

 

121,000 if healthy will still go like crazy.

Phenomenal !

400 net hp to do that in our cars full weight.

 

I’ll be at the car tomorrow morning about 8:30 AM I’ll post some pictures and I’m sure I’ll have some questions.

 

My first preference would be to try for the whole car. Rather than starting the engine, I would use a 1-1/8" socket on a breaker bar and see if the engine turns over well. I'd rather disassemble and check everything rather than risking an engine failure by starting it.

 

Look for popped frost plugs which would indicate freeze damage. If the radiator is full disregard this as the coolant would have leaked out.

 

I was thinking, is the BBO frame bracket the same in a big car vs a Cutlass?

 

On the 1965-70 full size cars, there is no frame bracket. The motor mounts (2262 and 2263 - they are different RH/LH) have a threaded stud that fits through a hole in the frame and is retained by a nut on the backside.

 

The mounts also use different bolt mounting holes/position to the block when in a Cutlass, the holes are likely filled with gunk but they are there and are already threaded.

 

Every 1964-1990 Oldsmobile V8 block has exactly the same motor mount bolt holes. There are three on each side. The front two are used for 1964-70 full size cars and 1973-74 Omegas. The rear two for everything else. The adapter brackets for the Trans Am 403s pick up all three locations.

 

Joe, Is that a 400 in bronze? Color looks very close to original. If yes, what did you use?

 

That's a photo I stole off the web

 

Thank you I’m learning

 

 

Checked fluids, turned crank with a standard length 1/2” ratchet. I’m pretty happy with it so far

 

Pix

 

Picked these up last weekend