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Hi , we took our 98 for a short trip yesterday ( about 13 us miles ) and parked the car about 25 minutes
before we driving home . Noticed a litte water stain on pavement but was not shure if this was there
when we arrived or not.
When i parked the car in the garage i could hear a boiling sound from the termostath housing area
We drove the car a couple of weeks ago both much longer distance and warmer weather and parked
it with no heating issues at all.
New waterpump , radiator and 16lb cap , Gates 180 F stat , had some overheating last year so i replaced
the stat and radiatorcap. Mounted a fan shroud earlier this year.
Could the exhaust manifold valve got stuck and causing this issue our last ride. Send a pic of it. Can move
it but the whole thing feels very sticky and wobbly. Have checked the Olds manual but is hard to se how it should
look when fully open. Checked my 88 also but there was no valve or maybe it have been removed earlier.
i was under the car this morning and unhook the bimetal spring and secure the weight with a wire. Would like to remove shaft and valve but donīt take the chance of breaking any bolt now when we have fun with the car. Better to check this in winter when car is parked.
Well at our cruising last evening everything worked untill we was sitting idling for maybe 15-20 minutes
and then the hot lamp was lightened , luckaly there was space so i could park the car for a while
and cool down. We drove another road so we could came out the traffic mess and took a ride about
10 us miles before i parked the car in the garage. Could se water leaking from the rad hose again and
could also hear a boiling sound from the intake. Heard this sound before #1
Maybe headgaskets leak exhaust into cooling system ? This intake boiling sound is suspect.
Yes it,s frusturating when car is overheating but mostly because you don,t want to damage the engine.
( but there was alot of cars overheating this cruising )
Earlier same day i was and filled up the car with gas 1 us mile from home and i could se water under
the overflow hose but before i left i have filled up the radiator so i think i filled to much.
Radiator 3 years old Spectra Premium SGT-CU 302 alu with plastic tanks + 16lb cap.
7 blade fan (no fan clutch) + original fan shroud.
Waterpump 3 years old
Gates stat 180F 1 year old.
Engine oil Castrol Classic xl 20w-50. ( looks fine )
Ignition checked
Head gaskets could be ruled out by testing for exhaust gas in the coolant. Any shops in you area that could do this?
AC car?
Fan clutch or direct drive?
Flaps around radiator so that air gets drawn through the radiator vs. around it?
Is this problem new?
Coolant really clean and no more than 50% coolant?
Head gaskets could be ruled out by testing for exhaust gas in the coolant. Any shops in you area that could do this?
AC car?
Fan clutch or direct drive?
Flaps around radiator so that air gets drawn through the radiator vs. around it?
Is this problem new?
Coolant really clean and no more than 50% coolant?
Yes we have done this exhaust testing on our Subaru so i should check with the shop.
No fan clutch , direct drive.
There is no flaps left , without factory AC but the car had a Eaton aftermarked ac who is removed now.
I think the problem started first time last year , less than 50% antifreeze in the coolant.
Replaced the radiator 2019 because the coolant looked bad , the radiator looked very bad and i
suspected a leak from the transmission fluid that i had in other cars. Have flushed the system +10 times.
The coolant looks better but not so clean like that in my 88 who has very clean coolant.
Originally Posted by Vintage Chief
Test the radiator cap to ensure it can maintain & hold 16psi.
I have a new radiator cap in my 88 , could try that on the 98. I use the cap to the right now because the
"thinner" part against the rad , the overflow pipe in the new rad was smaller and sitting longer "down" than
the oem radiator so i suspected the thicker cap bottom maybe block the flow out.
Hmm have also been thinking about a 170F grant stat instead of the 180F that i have now.
Thanks for answers , should check this up more but i think i must replace wheelbearings in our Subaru first.
( hope you understand my writing , could be difficult to find correct words sometimes but google search is nice to have )
The cooling system needs to be cleaned, CRC ThermoCure works well. My suggestion is to clean the cooling system, replace the thermostat with another 180°, test or replace the radiator cap, replace the coolant and consider adding RedLine WaterWetter and see what happens. The flaps around the sides of the radiator are important to help the air pulled by the fan to go through the radiator core, no flaps allows more air to get pulled around the radiator.
The cooling system needs to be cleaned, CRC ThermoCure works well. My suggestion is to clean the cooling system, replace the thermostat with another 180°, test or replace the radiator cap, replace the coolant and consider adding RedLine WaterWetter and see what happens. The flaps around the sides of the radiator are important to help the air pulled by the fan to go through the radiator core, no flaps allows more air to get pulled around the radiator.
Thanks for tip about CRC ThermoCure , donīt think i have seen that here but should se if i could try cleaning
the cooling system and flaps around the radiator. Have tried dishwasher tablets earlier.
1. Get a temperature infrared gun to really know the temperature you have, test intake temp near sender. You could add a mechanical Temperature guage.. I don't trust electric ones.. I've put cardboard in front of radiator to test temperature rise.. but do not keep too long..
3. Do compression check to make sure you are good on all cylinders,
4. Check ignition timing and vacuum advance for operation. Vacuum advance diaphragms are rubber and do fail with age. Vacuum hoses can be cracked and don't hold vacuum..
5. Like you mentioned before, make sure heat riser valve is open.
Last edited by FStanley; July 12th, 2023 at 08:41 AM.
Had ThermoCure solve an overheating problem on a highly collectible #'s matching Mustang with low mileage. Car sat for years and developed a blockage. We put a clear inline filter in the upper radiator hose and did multiple applications with ThermoCure, the first and second time helped. On the third application the blockage broke loose and the filter clogged. Cleaned the filter and it no longer overheats.
The main difference IMO was that we let the ThermoCure work for a few days which the instructions state is ok to do. It works through chelation.
Thanks for input have ordered Thermacure and i guess i have it next week , so we,ll se whats coming
out , should be intresting. I donīt think i ever had a car with that rust in the radiator before , maybe this car
sat for a while before it came to Sweden .
Should mount flaps around the radiator , testing this 3mm clear polycarbonate .
Finally the rain stops for a while and i have use some alu sheet metal to cover the gap on top of the
radiator , drain the cooling system and i have never seen such cooling fluid in any vehicle before .
Have filled the cooling system with Therma cure now and should drive a couple of days before flushing
the system a lot.
After 30 us miles the radiator looks better , should drive the car a couple of days before i flush the system. But no signs of overheating or coolingfluid under the rad . Have not replaced the stat yet.
Hoping this getting better after flushing Norm but have not noticed any heating issues so far.
The Gates stat seem to work also so i maybe keep this for a while ( 1 year old )
Originally Posted by Sugar Bear
Remove the threaded 9/16" hex head pipe plug on each side of the block when flushing. The plugs are in the vicinity of the engine mounts.
Thanks for tip about this , wish i had a carlift Think i should flush the system tomorrow and then add a litte
antifreeze and drive for a while and then flush again and adding a proper mount of antifreeze before winter.
Should be intresting to se whats coming out of the system.
My brother replaced the temp sensor in his Chrysler ( same as that one i replaced TS15 ) but his was defect
so he should get a new sensor. The shop were we buy these told us that the cold lights up to 43 C / 109 F
and the hot lamp lights up when temprature reach 122 C / 251 F . Hmmm.
If the next flush will be in a week or two just use water unless freezing is a concern. If corrosion is a concern use RedLine Water Wetter. It prevents corrosion and helps cooling efficiency, it does not prevent freezing.
Yesterday i flush the cooling system after i had the Thermocure in it for 3 days.
Before the Thermocure :
After one day driving about 30 us miles :
And after 3 days the radiator look like this hard to say miles but around 75 maybe. Alu radiator with plastic
tanks , half full with water :
A lot of black "water" came out of the system :
Here a pic of particles coming out , replaced the heater core hoses at the same time and there was also
particles in the hose from heatercore to waterpump :
Should do one more flush in a couple of weeks before adding antifreeze , and also think if i should keep the
180F stat or replace it with a new or maybe a 160F.
Gates also have something they call "superstat" ??
I'd stay with a 180° stat. A properly operating thermostat only controls the minimum operating temperature. The maximum temp is controlled by the other components of the cooling system's ability to shed the heat.
It's obvious your cooling system has been neglected, but you seem to be on course for a correction. I've used Thermacure for years to flush the cooling systems in all my vehicles, new and classic. I'd also suggest to test your radiator cap for functionality now, and at each interval flushing in the future. Most new caps don't work out of the box my investigation proves. Happy Motoring!
Yes i probaly keep the 180F stat , maybe consider a 180F superstat if this should be a better choice.
This pic is from the radiator in the car when it came from US in 2018 , i replaced the radiator to a new.
I,m not sure how to test a radiator cap , feeling the spring and rubber surface ?
I,m not sure how to test a radiator cap , feeling the spring and rubber surface?
The only sure way I know of is to use a radiator cap tester adapter. You'd put the radiator cap on the adapter, then pump it up w/ a pressure pump & gauge to it's rated psi (typically 16psi) to see if the valve holds pressure up to it's stated rating.
Glenn - Many automotive service garages & radiator shops will have a radiator cap tester - most likely a radiator shop will test yours for free. I lost my adapter but I have the (standard) pump, hose & gauge (which you most likely have, as well). It may be cheaper for you to buy a new radiator cap but the adapter isn't terribly expensive if you plan to use it more than once. Really simple device to use.
Today i flushed the cooling system again after i had water in system and a light grey fluid came out. Not
so many particles this time. Flushed radiator , engine and heater core untill clean water came out.
Refilled with water again and should drive a little before i flush again and adding antifreeze .
Should have these engine block bolts in mind
Sugar bear , when i could check this.
Glenn - If you can, make a small 1:1 (50%:50%) ATF:Acetone penetrating solution & apply to the bolts; or, Kroil. You can apply the ATF:Acetone sol'n w/ a small brush.
Thanks for tip both of you flushed the cooling system again today after driving yesterday and the
fluid that came out is much more clear now than last time so i should do this a couple times more.
Had the car idling for a while and i could feel the radiators left and right side is much hotter than the
area where the fans operate and could also feel the suction thru the rad so i,m glad a CO member
sold me an shroud
Maybe itīs better to try remove this bolts when the car is parked for winther , it must be an real nightmare
to break one of those in the block but all tip should be rememered.
If it is draining clear and running cool the drain plugs can wait. If you think you may pull them at some point, soak them several times with penetrating oil (ATF and acetone as suggested.
Maybe itīs better to try remove this bolts when the car is parked for winther , it must be an real nightmare
to break one of those in the block but all tip should be rememered.
Based on the work you've done & the results so far to date, I would enjoy the car the remainder of the summer & if it's necessary to remove the bolt(s) I would tackle that job in the winter.
Regarding removal of any seized bolt(s), after soaking in penetrating oil: (1) have ready a long piece of pipe/tubing/breaker bar to gain as much leverage as possible to free the bolt(s) - length is your friend in gaining leverage & force/coercion/strength; and, (2) don't be afraid to apply a little clockwise force to the bolt(s) to free it up - not a lot, just enough so you might get the rust to break free under the bolt head and first several threads. Be judicious.
June 30th, 2023, 08:40 AM
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have ordered Thermacure and i guess i have it next week , so we,ll se whats coming
.
Think i should flush the system tomorrow and then add a litte
