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I'd suspect, esp. once you have that O-Ring in your hand, it's highly likely to find an O-Ring manufacturer who produces an oil/petroleum resistant equivalent O-Ring of the same dimensions should the O-Ring you purchased appear unworthy. Oil/Petroleum resistant rubber contains Nitrile (Buna-N) I believe.
I'd suspect, esp. once you have that O-Ring in your hand, it's highly likely to find an O-Ring manufacturer who produces an oil/petroleum resistant equivalent O-Ring of the same dimensions should the O-Ring you purchased appear unworthy. Oil/Petroleum resistant rubber contains Nitrile (Buna-N) I believe.
I have it now. Seems to be in ok shape except that I cannot figure out how to get this plug out!!!! It is a 3/4” head, a socket will not fit into the space, a wrench will get onto it (box end) but there is NO room to wiggle the wrench even slightly. Stuck. Any ideas?????
A 3/8" &/or 1/2" drive socket likely won't work in your tight space, they may or may not - I don't know. A 1/4" drive socket set is likely what you'd like to use along w/ a flexible extension. You likely might need to use a wrench 1st to break (loosen) the plug. Once loosened, I'd try a 1/4" flexible extension.
A 3/8" &/or 1/2" drive socket likely won't work in your tight space, they may or may not - I don't know. A 1/4" drive socket set is likely what you'd like to use along w/ a flexible extension. You likely might need to use a wrench 1st to break (loosen) the plug. Once loosened, I'd try a 1/4" flexible extension.
I failed to mention that no 3/4” socket can fit through the gap between the flex plate and the housing. I can’t even get that size near the plug hex head. I may have to custom build a tool to get this done. That box end 3/4 wrench does fit onto the plug head, but I have zero clearance to turn the wrench.
I failed to mention that no 3/4” socket can fit through the gap between the flex plate and the housing. I can’t even get that size near the plug hex head. I may have to custom build a tool to get this done. That box end 3/4 wrench does fit onto the plug head, but I have zero clearance to turn the wrench.
Here's an idea.
Keep pouring trans fluid in it this summer and enjoy the car.
Pull the trans out as a winter project.
Change the trans valve O rings if you wish.
But replace the input shaft seal. Because that is where the leak probably is.
The oil will accumulate on those valves from a seal leaking above it.
While you have the trans out, check the damper on the flywheel.
If any of the springs in it are loose, replace it.
A worn out damper can send shock loads to other parts of the trans, causing them to break.
Here's an idea.
Keep pouring trans fluid in it this summer and enjoy the car.
Pull the trans out as a winter project.
Change the trans valve O rings if you wish.
But replace the input shaft seal. Because that is where the leak probably is.
The oil will accumulate on those valves from a seal leaking above it.
While you have the trans out, check the damper on the flywheel.
If any of the springs in it are loose, replace it.
A worn out damper can send shock loads to other parts of the trans, causing them to break.
I love that! The trans oil level is in the safe zone on the dipstick when checked when warm and running. Checked it today after a drive. I may just sit tight for now.
Here's an idea.
Keep pouring trans fluid in it this summer and enjoy the car.
Pull the trans out as a winter project.
Change the trans valve O rings if you wish.
But replace the input shaft seal. Because that is where the leak probably is.
The oil will accumulate on those valves from a seal leaking above it.
While you have the trans out, check the damper on the flywheel.
If any of the springs in it are loose, replace it.
A worn out damper can send shock loads to other parts of the trans, causing them to break.
