I am probably unable to avoid this so I was wondering what I should expect from a quality rebuild. And a ball park figure.

45k miles are on the engine but she has been sitting for a loooong time. I started her up a few years ago and after a coughing fit, she idled like it was Oct 1969.

I want the engine to be as near factory correct as possible. What can or will be done during a rebuild that would alter performance? I don't want a triple angle valve job, or polished heads. Just make the thing run the way it was intended. Is this achievable?

Is degreeing the cam included in a rebuild?

 

I'd start by changing the oil and coolant and if it runs it runs!

 

Like steven stated, i would do more investigating. Could easily be a carb or ignition issue. That said, a 3 angle valve job is basically standard these days and certainly not noticeable. If you want it to run as good as possible, a good valve job with some bowl work will help. If a reputeable shop assembles the engine, they should degree the cam, along with giving you a blueprint sheet (bearing clearances, torque specs, etc).

 

Does the Vin have a Z,or M. If it is Z, it is not a W30, it is a Fremont car, and all W30 were built in Lansing.

 

442harv - he has a Z on the cowl tag and in the broadcast card. The VIN has the M for Lansing a few cars have odd letters on them and nobody seems to know for sure what its for. I think there are a few cars with the Z on the cowl tag.

44870M - I have a hardtop W30 that has been sitting for year, changed the oil, topped off the coolant, changed the plugs and battery and the car runs like a champ.

 

The important number is the vin number. The cowl tag, is just the body tag, and all W30 bodys are also Cutlass bodys, so they will not be the same as the Vin. The only thing, I'm not sure of, is, the built sheet. Does it have the W30 option listed? I would think it should. I have also head of cars not having the correct built sheet, like maybe the car before, or after, and also having two. I have a70 W30, and ithe sheet is missing, but I know it was theren and taked to thje orignal owner, but I could never convince anyone that i is real with out. Als, there was I guy on 442.com. that had had a W30 built sheet in his car, and was not his, I was hoping ,it was ,mine, but was not. These guys did not worry to much about where they put them. Also does the built sheet list the Vin number?

 

As far as I know, the car runs. The engine is in various stages of assembly. (I'm a procrastinator extraordinaire).

I'm just figuring that an engine rebuild would not be such a bad idea for a car that has sat as long as mine without a start. I was under the belief that as the oil breaks down it can damage engine seals and what not. I was just thinking preventative maintenance.

Yes, the Z is on the trim tag and the SPCL box on the broadcast card. The VIN is 344870M168265. The broadcast card in my sig shows the W-30 option. It was stuffed under the backseat.

 

We need pictures of your car

 

Here ya go.

 

B E A utiful!

Change the oil (with zddp, of course). Flush the coolant, check the hoses and fuel lines. Flush out old gas. Clean the carb. New plugs, wires, cap & rotor, and points. Fire it up, and drive it like you stole it!

Then, if it leaks or burns oil, consider pulling it out for a freshen-up.

 

It looks great in the pics but if this is a recent pic PLEASE switch the valve covers around so they're facing the right direction

 

Old pic. Drives ya crazy doesn't it? When I bought the car, the engine and fender wells were painted black. In fact everything was painted black.

 

It looks great in the pics but if this is a recent pic PLEASE switch the valve covers around so they're facing the right direction

 

I’d do a compression and a leak down check first. Then make a decision. If its history is unknown or it looks like it was beat upon then I’d be hard pressed not to tear her down for an inspection. Then if it needs a freshening, consider the following for a stock rebuild: a bore hone, crank polish, modern rings, bearings, valve guides, valve seals and a 3 angle grind. Don’t worry about hardened valve seats. Balance the lower end if it’s apart. Use ARP hardware on reassembly. Install the one piece rear main seal. I’d clean the bowl area in the heads too. Consider installing the heat riser block-offs in the heads or the intake and removing the stove in the driver’s side exhaust manifold. That’s it. But if you’re happy with the compression & leak down you may want to leave it alone for now? It’s only original once.
Degreeing the cam would be something you would do when installing a new cam and you would ask the builder at that time if it’s necessary after conversing with the cam manufacturer. The manufacturer will suggest the benefits of advancing or retarding the cam. I will offer this advice; find a builder who knows Olds. Not an expert Chevy guy who has done one or two in the past.
BTW Nice ride!