Hi guys,

wanted to share some great experience I made by having replaced the stock contact breaker ignition with an electronic one. Checking the different options, I decided to go for the Pertronix Ignitor II in the LS version. Advantage of the LS version is that you don't need to take out the distributor and unmount the gear.

With this device, you:

1. can keep the distributor in the engine
2. just remove distributor cover and rotor
3. take out the original contact breaker
4. mount the Ignitor
5. Hookup the two wires to coil and ignition terminal (caution: the Ignitor must not be hooked up to a resistance wire but direct ignition voltage, but this is the same for all electronic ignitions)
6. reinstall distributor rotor and cover
7. and then you are ready to check/tune ignition timing

I was amazed how easy this worked and how reliable the ignition works since then (3.5k mls on the road during this summer). Okay, price is not cheap, but it was super easy to install, looks completely original, works like a charm and requires no checking/service/regular replacement at all. It really brings hassle-free driving to a better level.

I add some pics for illustration below.

Cheers, Steffen


Distributor before modification, also timing advance was quite rusty

Pertronix module

side view

Module mounted in distributor, no distributor removal or magnet ring installation needed (it uses the contact cam lobes for ignition timing)

Reinstalled timing advance weights

Mounted cap (after rotor installation, no pic of that step)

Installation completed

 

Good to hear that the Pertronix module worked well for you. I installed one in my 64 98 years ago and it worked great.

 

Hi, Steffen. Just wondering how it compares to your old points ignition in terms of performance and reliability.

 

Comparing a brand new electronic system to a set of worn, pitted points is meaningless. Compare it to a brand new set of properly adjusted points for a meaningful comparison. Of course, after spending the time and money on the pointless system, of COURSE the car will feel like it runs better.

 

Kind of what I was getting at, Joe. Aside from somewhat easier maintenance I don't see a lot of advantage to going pointless.

I would like to get Steffen's perspective, though.

 

i use both versions of the pertronix, this one and the rev limiter ones.
they work great and never had any problems. they have adaptive dell which increases start voltage. there is also no limit to rpm like points, which do bounce at some point.

 

I've got HEI, but only because a PO installed it and I've had no reason to replace it because it works fine for my purposes.

Increased starting voltage sounds good though.

 

Hi all, thanks for the many and interesting responses!

@BangScreech4-4-2, honestly I cannot compare well since I didn't drive the car too many miles with the points. I only used it for three months with the points, just preferred the complete absence of maintenance need of the electronic alternative.


@joe_padavano , completely agree. A well maintained and adjusted contact setup does a fine job for sure. And yes, having spent the money (which could buy me ~10 points) it had to feel better.

@BangScreech4-4-2 , yes, maintenance freedom is the main topic. I'd add as minor factors a potentially better dwell management in the entire RPM range (without being sure about it, just listening to their advertising) and lastly a higher ignition voltage due to elimination of the resistance wire. However, as Joe wrote, already the original setup works very well when tuned properly.

@CANADIANOLDS , Sounds good! I didn't go for the rev limiter model since my car is equipped with a TH400 automatic trans which should not allow excessive RPM in driving conditions (also, I don't give the car much hard acceleration or high rpm anyway). Also, I wasn't sure about at which RPM the limiter kicks in, how it kicks in (smooth limitation or big threshold rpm range) and if the rpm limit could be adjusted.

@BangScreech4-4-2 , Agree, also the HEI setup for sure is an excellent one. In my 20's, I worked some years in a US-car garage, we had very many customers with GM vehicles and the HEI distributors. I remember them to have been super reliable also! I just wanted to not change the the complete distributor, so I went for the "stealth" conversion. And agree, the increased starting voltage was a point for me too, however I never experienced any issue with the points setup before. Might be even, that the higher voltage and consequently stronger spark could result in more wear on the spark plug electrodes (but how to compare this in an objective way?).

 

I hope your experience is better than mine was. The basic one left me on the side of the road twice. Other than that, I really liked it.

 

There is no spark power gain on startup since the points system utilized a bypass wire from the starter to provide full battery power to the coil. Don't confuse the full 12v to the module as an increase in power either, it has nothing to do with spark intensity, all the module does is provide the ground side signal to the coil.

 

Oops, hope you don't face any issue any more. I'll keep an eye on it and report here in case of any issue.

Ah right, I forgot but the bypass thing was written in the service manual, and both the points as well as the module interrupt the ground side, not the 12V. Sorry for the confusion...

 

That was in my 54 Olds and I don't have it anymore. HEI in the 75 H/O.

 

I never had trouble with the Pertronix kit I installed in my 64 98, but that was over 20 years ago.

On the other hand, I haven't had good luck with the HEI in my 71 98 (cheap imported parts). I keep a spare HEI module in the glove box in case of a failure. It's happened to me multiple times.

 

IMHO the best points conversion is the Hall Effect modules. They bolt right in and use 1 wire to the coil.

 

They all use 1 wire to the negative side of the coil.

 

the Pertronix is a Hall effect

 

HEI modules tend to break down as RPM increases which retards the timing...that’s a known problem with them. maybe ok on a stock grocery getter but not on a performance engine .

i should have said increase coil voltage during start when used with their coil. you can easily see the bigger spark during cranking when grounding a plug wire..it’s big and loud.

their adaptive dwell technology increases dwell as rpm increases..

 

Yeah but they have a feed wire making it using 2 wires where the Hall Effect only use the negative to the coil.

 

The Hall Effect I'm familiar with is the unit that has the windowed openings that mounts under the rotary button and triggers the module. You still use the factory setup with the resistor wire and the 12 volt bypass.

 

Something has to power it, Please post a link to an example.

 

can you post a link to that system?

as far as I know, all non point electronic ignition’s are Hall effect, even factory style magnetic ones..that’s what Hall means…same as crank triggered wheel magnets

the only other style is the old Mallory unilite which was an optical trigger system using a rotor with openings in it to break the optical beam, which isn’t Hall effect

it doesn’t matter how many wires it uses..it’s a Hall effect design

 

It works the same as points. It has the wire to the negative side of the coil and the power feed & 12V bypass to the positive side of the coil. It's the best simplest bolt in ignition I have ever used. Why anybody would use a Pertronix when you have this module that requires absolutely no cutting or splicing wires or the need for a ballast resistor.
https://wiringharness.com/breakerless-se-ignition

 

I stand corrected, have never looked into the one from M&H.

 

I have posted about this module on this site before. M&H isn't the only vendor either, American Auto Wire & others have the same thing. I had a friend who is now deceased who was a hell of a carb & tune up guy and he said he wouldn't have a Pertronix. He said he had many cars come in on the hook because of failure. I've never used a Pertronix so I can't say how good or bad they are. What does amaze me is and this is no offense to the OP but I can't count the times I've seen guys do away with points and discover a Pertronix and act like they invented ice cream.

 

I have never used Pertronix products either but have installed them and others similar to other peoples cars with no issues. The main thing with any of these is to follow the instructions.

 

that’s a Hall effect… you obviously don’t understand what Hall effect is

there is no splicing or cutting with pertronix. if two wires freak you out..you have a problem

 

I’m not deceased …the pertronix is good stuff. still alive to tell the truth.

Points were also one wire…don’t get hung up on the wiring.

do you need me to explain what Hall effect is?

 

Naw

 

I had a HEI in my 71 Cutlass It failed twice- probably due to replacement module and/ or pick up coil. Also had to modify stock air cleaner to clear HEI (BFH). After car got better and older I really didn't want HEI anymore. Dug out original distributor and bought cheapest Pertronix kit online (seems like it was only 20 bucks or so) I have had zero problems since- though I have heard many stories of immediate failure such as what happened to Glenn.

 

Good to know. Thanks!

 

I had a 72 Cutlass for over 20 years. One of the first things I did was install a HEI from a wrecking yard. I never had a minutes trouble from it.

 

the M&H deal is GROUNDED through the module…that’s the only reason why it’s a one wire system.

they specifically say make sure the grounding wire from the old breaker points plate has a good ground. that’s why they supply brass screws to mount their module.

that type of ground has way to many connections to be better than a two wire style like the pertronix which has the power wire and a dedicated ground wire

the M&H ground goes from the module, through the brass screw, to the old points plate, to the ground wire screw, through that wire, to the distributor ground wire screw , then to the distributor housing, then to the engine block.

you think that’s better? they also say their module is limited to 7,500 max…not that it matters for most Oldsmobiles , but why?

according to them, their module is not compatible with any aftermarket ignition box like the MSD6AL etc…The pertronix is

 

You a Pertronix rep?

 

you an M&H rep?

because they suck😂

 

Yep,how did you guess?

 

because salesmen never know anything about what they’re selling

really man, your don’t have a clue

 

It’s one WIRE!! 😂😂😂😂
🙄

 

You turn everything into a **** show. Smartest guy in the room ......always.

 

so you can’t debate anything I’ve said? because it’s true

you’re technically illiterate on this subject.

 

I have noticed that.