Is that City Motors on Jefferson Ave. in WashPa, by any chance? If so, maybe I'll do a quick walkaround on it. I've had more than a few of these cars, including two '68s.

 

The M20 on the Canadian trim tag confirms it as an M20 4 speed car.

Also, A52 and 953 are bench seat codes, but in Blue. CLL paint is Provincial White (C)with Teal Blue (L). Even longtime dealers with solid reps don't necessarily know a darn thing about these vintage cars - they grab them in an auction frenzy and/or take a seller/prior owner's word for it, and we know what that is worth at times.

To look at things from a different perspective, if it's a rust free southern car, at appx. $13K someone who isn't an originality buff could have a lot of cruising fun. '68 post coupes are cool.

Terry

 

Nope. Canada was behind the US in mandating emissions equipment. EGR was factory installed on some California cars in 1972 and on all US cars in 1973. Note that not all automakers required EGR to meet emissions. My wife's 1990 Civic does not have EGR, for example.

It could be that the engine was swapped, or just the intake. Casting numbers and VIN derivatives will tell.

I'm also willing to bet that the Holley carb on that 68 does not carry a number that "matches"...

 

I did not even notice the m20 on the trim tag. Thank you for pointing that out.

 

Exactly. If the car can be closely examined, I don't see what there is to "run away" from yet. Nothing has been said or shown yet to confirm that it is a piece of junk.
Having questions just means there are answers needed. Questions don't mean "run away", "walk away", or give up. I think that is bad advice at this point, and can only be considered good advice if the questions can't be answered.

 

For not much more money there are solid cars out there that you can find without looking to hard that have the original correct engines, seats ect. Granted it has not been determined that this engine is not original but first impressions are that it isn't.

That is why I suggested to run away or may be in this case just walk don't run.

 

Without *knowing* how solid, or what *exactly* what is amiss on this car, I don't see how anybody can say there are better cars out there, thus walk away. At this point, it is speculation, not fact, so why?
Seats, emblems, and much of what has been pointed out are certainly not a big deal.

 

Like I said.....the car still may be a nice 442....don't nix it yet. So it isn't orig color or interior or engine. At least it is a 4-spd 442, and the guy is willing to trade, which means you don't need to sell! The negotiation just swung in your favor....if you like the car, get him to ante up!

 

How about a replaced engine with a small block?

 

Depends what you want, of course. I'd say first find that out for sure.
If you want to put it "back to original", it would have to be replaced even if it is a 455. And that is much less of problem in the overall picture that a bad body and/or frame would be. Ask 68Tom how important that is.

 

Yup City motors its at 773 Chestnut, Washington, Pa

 

I emailed him earlier today with some info on how determine what motor is in the car. Turns out its a 1973 Olds 350 he was uterly disapointed. As someone stated above he bought it at an auction and it was advertised as numbers matching. He bought it over 3 months ago so going back against them is not possible, unless he sues the original seller. He appologized a million times and told me to come make an offer. I don't think he will pony up any cash as he paid 11k for the car, he faxed me a reciept from the auction.
I still really like the car the body seems super solid, but I do feel I could hold out and find a more authentic car. The only thing is I would rather deal with a nice solid body/frame and a non-numbers motor than a car thats more original but has body work and a pretty paint job.
Vette422 if you get the chance swing buy and check her out for me let me know what you think. I can PM you my cell number if you want.

 

Well look at it this way. If you do end up with the car at the very least you should be able to sell the crank for some money. 4sp cranks are usually in demand.

 

Might want to offer him what he paid 4 it, swap the 350 for a 400 & sell the 350!

Ralph

 

I'd rather have somebody go check it out and see if the seller gives the same "numbers matching" story. A quick integrity test if you will. From there, if you like the car I still think the bike for the car and cash from the seller could be more likely now (assuming he really didn't know he got taken)

 

The reciept is meaningless now....what he paid has no bearing on what you should pay. AFTER checking the car out, and the rest of the car is solid , offer to take it off his hands for $7,500 cash if you have or he gives you $4k and the car for the bike! At least he has a better chance of breaking even by having the bike to sell. The "mistake" was his, not yours....I don't believe anyone would pay $11k for that car!

 

he is really pissed off,because he had your bike sold already


dealers are frigging liars,that's the way it is

if what he said was true,he can sue the crap out of the auction house.

he forged the receipt to make it say 11k,i guarantee you

i bet he doesnt have more than 5k in the car.

find one from a private buyer,get everything they say about the car in writing,and get the statement notarized

 

Try getting info like this on the Mopar boards.....like Mike Vick on a pitbull. We saw a picture, and we attacked!

 

LOL yes you did I really still want a 68 442.

 

Hey, part of the fun is looking for one! Wish I could be looking for one now.....don't rush, if it was meant to happen, it will!

 

X2. So often its a case of being patient and being at the right place at the right time.

 

I wanted a '69. Nothing else as it was the first car I owned back in '76. It took me a year and I had to weigh what I wanted in it, with price and condition.
One day I found it. I didn't get the 4 speed I wanted but I did get a near factory car in excellent condition at a VERY good price. Even then, many dollars have been invested since. Best to find a car near original and drop a few more grand then to get a molested car and spend tens of grands.

When it comes down to it, the body is one of the least expensive restorations.

 

Oh, absolutely. Sorry, just finally saw this post. I now have enough parts for 2 '68 442s.

I somewhat disagree with most people about this car. While I would not pay the $11K for the car, finding a very straight body and frame with no replacement sheet metal (if that is the case), AND one that had Canadian documentation IS actually hard to find. Especially a 4-speed post car (Sports Coupe). Try finding that aluminum trim for the posts some time. (also, if you do buy the car and decide to paint the car down the road, do NOT mess with that trim. It's impossible to remove without damaging it.)

I would have someone thoroughly check over the car, checking for body filler and rust.

The dealer is the one who has screwed up. Expecting to get all his money back is completely unreasonable. I have a feeling, even if it means you sitting and waiting for a while, that he's going to have to lower his price.

At that point, I'd find a nice 455 block and rebuild it. You'll then have a great driver, with documentation, that, if one day should someone choose to do so, can hunt for the original block or simply put a replacement 400 in it.

I also have a bench seat if you decide to buy the car. Definitely go through Legendary Auto Interiors for the '68 442 interior. The PUI stuff is not up to snuff, in my opinion.

Here's a photo of my car at the moment (the 2nd body & frame.) It too is a 4-speed, bench seat car (very cool in my opinion).
photo.jpg

 

OK, your first problem is that your garage is WAAAAAY too clean...

Nice work so far, by the way.

 

68Tom thanks brother words of inperation!! After seeing the 1968 in person thats deffinatly the year I want...and the 4spd is a major plus.

 

Haha. Well, that's my parent's garage, Joe, so I HAVE to keep it clean. Otherwise, mom would not be happy. lol.

Thanks, aside from the A/C bracket that was on upside down (complete clowns at the old shop who was helping me....)

 

No problem, Randy. I take it you're actually located in PA? If you ever need any help, I'm not too far away (relatively).

 

I put 88 f-bird seats in my '70 442, they sit about 2" lower and I can wear a hat in the car now ...

As for deals the last show I went to had a ton of cars for sale at a % of cash invested ...
Of course no Oldsmobiles

 

It's worth it. Hope you can see it but here is partially what I got for my vette. I also got options, spec's on the car, weights with certain options etc. If you need it quick, George (the guy who will probably do the research) can fax it to you if you provide a credit card and the original will come in the mail.

 

X2. Even if you don't want to go back to original, a future owner may (we're not getting any younger!). The data sheet will at least have info on what options it had.

Ralph

 

I agree that is a lot of money for that car!


I just sold my 100% original 71 Cutlass Convertible for $14,500.

 

Nice Cutlass...I may have to end up selling the bike and thats probably is the best option. I was just hopeing to avoid the 7% sales tax here in PA.

 

That dealer was going to cost you a lot more than 7%! That 68 will take a lot of time and money to get it right!