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First time poster here and new owner of a 1970 442 that’s been in the family for some time.
I’m having issues with one of the rear lights. When I turn the lights on all but 1 in the rear comes on. The confusing part is the turn signal and brake light work for this light but when the brakes are not engaged or the turn signal on it doesn’t work.
Any tips on what to look for would be appreciated.
The bulbs are 1157 which has 2 elements. Check to ensure one is not burned out.
Another thing to check is the spring in the socket, under the electrical terminal that pushes against the bulb. The grease in there can dry out, or the spring can get weak, and the contact doesn't push against the bulb. You can try reaching behind the bumper, grab the wires right at the rear of the light housing, and push the wires towards the bulb to see if it then makes contact.
Fun71 x 2, since the turn signal and brake light work that filament within the dual filament 1157 bulb is good. From the description the tail light isn't working and that is the other filament in an 1157, so it may be simply a bad bulb and if not a dirty/loose connection inside the socket. Be careful removing the bulb, if it is stuck the glass can break in your fingers removing it. Insulate your fingers by wrapping the bulb with a rag or push a short piece of heater hose onto the glass while removing.
Had one break in the shop and severely cut another techs fingers.
x3 In the course of many bad bulbs (esp. 1157s) I've learned not to deal with the chance of lacerating a finger. For a bad (embedded bulb) I pull the (-) battery cable off the battery then hit that socket hard w/ some PB Blaster until it's dripping. Put on a pair of mechanic's gloves and try to unscrew it (saving your fingers). If the bulb cracks & breaks (many do) & with the battery disconnected, you can make short order of removing that bulb w/ a pair of needle nose. Then, you can clean it all up and perform the repair which may or may not be the simple replacement of the bulb.
Fun71 x 2,
Be careful removing the bulb, if it is stuck the glass can break in your fingers removing it. Insulate your fingers by wrapping the bulb with a rag or push a short piece of heater hose onto the glass while removing.
Had one break in the shop and severely cut another techs fingers.
Great idea. Thank you. I was changing the footwell bulbs and the bulbs fought me relentlessly. I was thinking that if one bulb breaks, I'll end up in the emergency room. I took long nose pliers, broke each bulb and twisted the bases using long nose pliers. Next time, I'll try your method. Thank you.
x3 In the course of many bad bulbs (esp. 1157s) I've learned not to deal with the chance of lacerating a finger. For a bad (embedded bulb) I pull the (-) battery cable off the battery then hit that socket hard w/ some PB Blaster until it's dripping. Put on a pair of mechanic's gloves and try to unscrew it (saving your fingers). If the bulb cracks & breaks (many do) & with the battery disconnected, you can make short order of removing that bulb w/ a pair of needle nose. Then, you can clean it all up and perform the repair which may or may not be the simple replacement of the bulb.
Vintage Chief,
I just read your post. We take the same precautions. What is PB Blaster? Thank you.
PB Blaster is a penetrating aerosol. Used in many applications most often for soaking nuts, bolts, machine screws & the like. When electing to remove stubborn/tough metal hardware (often times rusted/corroded) PB Blaster is used to soak (often times overnight). Can purchase at any automotive parts store & most big box stores. You should have a can on your shelf.
Today | 01:59 PM
