Puzzled! Any suggestions?

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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 08:42 PM
  #1  
amesolds's Avatar
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Puzzled! Any suggestions?

I was driving my '69 442 out on the interstate about 20 miles away from home when I suddenly lost power. Checked spark and it was good. No fuel coming into carb. Got it back to the house and checked fuel filters, blew out lines to tank with compressed air, re-attached them back up to fuel pump. No go! I replaced the fuel pump and blew out lines again, and still cannot get fuel moving. I guess it is time to drop the tank and see if it is the sock or a leak in the suction side of the line to the pump. Have I overlooked anything obvious or has anyone experienced this before? Thanks!
Old Nov 16, 2012 | 08:54 PM
  #2  
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Vent on gas cap clear?
Old Nov 17, 2012 | 05:40 AM
  #3  
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Should be a non vented cap for the 69.
If you have a rubber line cracked, the fuel pump could
be sucking air. Check the lines at the the front right
side of the frame. If it's an a/c car there will be two.
Of course the ones at the top of the tank could be bad too.
Old Nov 17, 2012 | 06:03 AM
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Check integrity of rubber lines from tank unit to steel lines. Cracks or collapse. Maybe bypass fuel lines by feeding pump from a container of gas & you may be able to narrow down where problem is. If it works that way, hook things back up. If it falters again, you know it is prime, lines, pickup, venting or something in the supply to the pump.
Old Nov 17, 2012 | 06:46 AM
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Had the same problem on a 70 Bonneville convertible years ago. The sock filter on the fuel pick-up in the tank was clogged with years of sediment and it would shut off the fuel to the carb. After it sat for a while, some of the sediment would fall off, enough to run for a while until it would do it again.
Old Nov 19, 2012 | 10:10 AM
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Thank you all! The non vented cap was removed, but it made no difference. Time to empty the tank and clean and inspect it and all rubber lnes, and replace items as needed. Does anyone sell just the pick-up sock for the sending units?
Old Nov 19, 2012 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by amesolds
Thank you all! The non vented cap was removed, but it made no difference. Time to empty the tank and clean and inspect it and all rubber lnes, and replace items as needed. Does anyone sell just the pick-up sock for the sending units?
For what they cost, I'd replace the whole unit.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1968-197...d4e4a4&vxp=mtr
Old Nov 19, 2012 | 12:46 PM
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I got bit by a 25 cent piece of line from the tank to the steel line. Wasn't sucking anything but fumes. Check the simplest stuff first. Hate for you to go through dropping the tank for something simple. I even replaced my pump for no reason because I didn't check.

John
Old Nov 25, 2012 | 05:19 PM
  #9  
amesolds's Avatar
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Thanks for the good tips. I have a feeling the culprit is on the suction side line and I will replace those 2 small sections first and see what happens!
Old Nov 25, 2012 | 05:46 PM
  #10  
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This may be obvious, but be sure to look at the piece of hose between the steel line and fuel pump in the engine compartment, too.
It'd suck to drop the tank, then find that the bad line was right under your nose.

- Eric
Old Nov 26, 2012 | 01:18 PM
  #11  
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There are lots of short fuel line sections. Only 2 of them usually carry the actual liquid gasoline. The rest are used for venting, emissions and air / fuel separation. When I found that one vent line had cracked in half on my 71, I replaced all of the dozen short runs with new fuel lines approved for ethanol.
Your problem does sound like it’s in the tank. If you do drop the tank, have a supply of new ethanol hose handy and replace all of the sections.
Old Nov 26, 2012 | 03:38 PM
  #12  
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I’d suggest dropping the tank and replacing the sock for GP (cheap) as well as all the soft lines and clamps. Purchase the factory style spring clamps I don’t like worm drives as the size 4 & 6 tend to pinch the soft lines. By dropping the tank it will allow you to clean the rheostat and clean other things like the ground connection etc...Replace the tar squeak pad etc...Use a high quality fuel line not "off- shore" stuff from the big box houses. You may even want to replace the whole sending unit if yours is in doubt? Once you have it all put together sometimes it helps to put a PSI or two at the tank until you see fuel come up to the pump inlet. You can also do this with it all hooked up just make sure it’s only 1-2 psi positive pressure.
Old Nov 26, 2012 | 05:10 PM
  #13  
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Right, don't bulge the tank much.

That would spot line leakies also

I have had the rubber lines fail and suck air. One car, the body pinched the steel line where it goes over the rear axle. Wore thru the steel line. That's not supposed to be possible, but rust kills. Rusted thru line at a clamp to the frame also possible- hard to spot because there's generally suction... preventing leakage and a wet spot.
Old Nov 27, 2012 | 08:02 PM
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Thank you all for the additional ideas. Anyone know the best place to get fuel line that is ethanol resistant, and can I get just the sock for the sending unit? Think I will drop the tank, check and replace all rubber lines, and pressure test the steel ones to make sure no blow outs anywhere. Thank you all for sharing your experiences and knowledge with me.
Old Nov 28, 2012 | 02:48 AM
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Smile Yes!

[QUOTE=amesolds;480195] can I get just the sock for the sending unit?

Yes. Try looking on eBay. There are many varieties. They are usually 5/16" or 3/8". Try to get a correct application for your vehicle.
Old Dec 1, 2012 | 07:00 PM
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amesolds's Avatar
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Thank you Ozzie! I will get one ordered.
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