BangScreech4-4-2

The thing is, if you're going to restomod the car, who cares about the VIN?

As for the assertion that restomods are outperforming restorations at auction, that's quite true -- but only when the work is absolutely first rate and cubic time and money are spent. A half-*** "customization," which is what many of these cars end up with (note: I don't mean to imply that's the case with OP's potential purchase), only detracts from the car's intrinsic value.

tiogatwister

Sorry for the late response to this thread, but I tried to read all the comments, the problem we have here "is a lack of understanding the Oldsmobile world" . I came from the dark side (chevy A bodies) and thought just as you do, the issue with Olds is once modified the value drops significantly, un like Chey and Ford, but on or not, you will pay a top dollar for all the parts to put that car back to original, not to mention paint and body work. So the qustion you need to ask yourself is, do I wa not a stock built car? Or a modified car? They are both great ways to o but offer different things, what Joe is trying to say is, if you are asking if the car is worth the money that is totally up to you, if it were original a value is much easier to assess. The Olds world is geared to criminality or racing, modified cars are rather frowned on in the deep circle, which I understand, there is a place for everyone in the gear head world, I love them all but placing value was the wrong question to ask. My 2 cents....

Phoenix8990

This post is a little old but just wondering if the sale went through?

Amplitude

Yes, I ended up buying the car. Like everything in this world, some things are better than I expected, while others aren't quite as good. The 67 400 is in great shape and actually pulls allot better than I was expecting.
After a 3 hour drive on only my third day of actually being able to drive the car, I ran over a Harley toolkit wrench as I pulled into my driveway. It completely wasted the right rear tire. So, instead of replacing the BFG rubber on the SSIII wheels, I ordered all new wheels and tires that were more akin to the pro-touring/restomod look I want. I'm still keeping the SSIII and will put some new rubber on them in the future, for classic olds shows or who knows what else. I've been battling a steering issue with a really bad on-center feel and somewhat of a dead-spot. But I just fixed that this weekend. I've upgraded the alternator to a 150a Powermaster 12SI; installed a Derale dual HO electric fan/shroud assembly; replaced some hoses; fixed allot of wiring; had a full 3" 409 stainless exhaust done with an X crossover and Black Widow Venom 250 mufflers plus Pypes 3" trumpet tips to fit the bumper cutouts perfectly; pulled out the MSD pro-billet distributor and replaced it with a knockoff RTR billet unit that has a vacuum advance; fixed the mounting and center console lock/latch of the highly modified 70-72 center console that was installed because they didn't bother to order the offset shifter for the TKO that would've let the factory console fit.
My current project list includes: replacing some additional seals and better aligning the side windows, replacing header gaskets, installing a 180 T-stat, installing 3pt seatbelts for the rear, along with a center lap belt (all for car seats), installing kick panel and package tray speakers and a hidden stereo H/U controlled via my phone (until I can afford to have the factory stereo rebuilt with the Aurora kit). I'm rebuilding an 850CFM quadrajet with parts and help from Cliff Ruggles, installing an AEM Fail-Safe Wideband O2 gauge that will log engine RPM, vacuum and A/F to help me tune the new carb; need to pull the repro rally pack gauges to paint the inner housings; trying to nail down a very intermittent run-on issue; working on a trans issue with 2-3 and 3-4 shifting. Currently not sure if this is a clutch or trans issue. At some point I need to repair the one rust spot: passenger lower quarter. I also need to wetsand a few weird paint imperfections, then cut and polish the whole car. Might end up with more paint issues than that. But paint is an easy one. I can do a ton myself, and have three free options for getting any other body work and the actually painting done. I just have to provide the materials.

For this winter and beyond, my plans include: swap the engine for another that I have on a stand; new headers that hug the floor; a hydraulic clutch throwout conversion; Holley HP or Terminator X MPFI with new fuel system; completely rewire the car with an all new harness; do some upgrades to the trans to hold more power(If I don't have to do those now) or swap for a Tremec Magnum; 9inch axle upgrade with 12" discs; 14" front brake upgrade; fix the trans tunnel as the modified hump installed by the shop in Florida looks like crap and isn't even painted on the underside; replace the carpet; have the headliner either fixed or replaced; attempt to find the correct center console and adapt the trans/shifter location to make that work; box the frame; find a way to install some resonators to tone down the exhaust some. It's a little loud at night in my neighborhood. I could go on and on, however, I essentially want to do everything I can to this car within reason, that will keep it looking stock-ish, but able to easily lay down high 10 to low 11 second passes and also be able to handle the twistiest of roads, while being reliable and sealed enough that the wife and I could maybe take a long weekend vacation in it, or the oldest daughter and I could take it on PowerTour.

Phoenix8990

Congrats, glad to hear it worked out! Nice looking car and should be a blast to drive.

Steve

Amplitude

Oh it is. Especially after the new exhaust. Turned out the existing OE style mufflers were rusted out on the inside, and I couldn’t stand the straight cut rolled edge tips. Now it just sounds “nasty” at idle, makes my kids jump when I start it, but is quiet as heck during normal driving. At least in the car it’s quiet. Don’t know what tune the trumpets are playing behind me. Lol

oldcutlass

Congrats, looks like a very solid car.

ignachuck

That is a beautiful car! Congratulations!
However, looking at your neighborhood, you better pay a little more attention to you lawn

cfair

If & when the interior comes out, I can recommend dynamat on the floor from the firewall to the trunk. Helps quiet these old cars. Dynapad too in place of the old factory jute padding. The extra mile with Dynamat is to scrape off the old GM breadboard and do the underside of the roof which I quite like, but is optional.

Fresh window seals and adjusting the glass will make things quieter, but I found that doing the floors first helped me identify where the window noises were coming from. When you get into the windows be prepared to replace some riveted rollers and possibly one or more regulators. These wear over the years and when they’re sloppy, they can rattle.

Enjoy the car to the fullest. These old things make daily life a lot more fun.

Cheers
cf

Amplitude

Yeah, I know. Waiting on parts to fix the sprinkler system.
I was wondering how long it was going to take for someone to mention it.

Amplitude

Window seals are already pretty fresh. As for Dynamat, I've installed more of that in my lifetime than I could begin to quantify. My last two vehicles probably each had at least 500lbs of sound dampening material in them. I'll probably end up doing some added mass membrane like Dynamat that for the floors, firewall, roof, and doors. But then I almost always use MLV on the firewall and closed cell acoustic foam in the doors and at least the roof, if not the floors as well. But I don't need a ton. It's honestly not that loud as it is.