Hello everyone! Well I have a performer series edelbrock carb in my 68 442. The engine is a 445. When I got the car, there was some kind of universal throttle cable kind of wrapped around everything and then wired to the gas pedal (something like a piece of coat hanger). I got rid of all of that and put in a repo throttle cable. It seems that this repo cable is a bit too long. Also, I am not really sure how to attach it to the carb. What fittings am I looking for? When the gas pedal end of the cable is where it is supposed to be, the end that hooks up to the carb is prob about an inch away from where I need to hook it up. Has anyone else run into this problem?? Sorry if it sounds kind of dumb but I am new to all of this. Thanks in advance!

 

Pictures would help a lot.

 

Oops yeah I think you are right! I will take some tomorrow. I just figured an edelbrock carb was pretty common. Thanks for the heads up!

 

Take a picture of the carb and the bracket you are using.

 

That can be a problem alright, even on factory setups - I just fixed mine last night. My cable was so long that the secondaries would not get pulled open. Either it was replaced with a wrong factory type cable, or it has stretched.
To make the cable 'shorter', I took a 3/8" long split aluminum spacer and lightly crimped it to the cable side at the gas pedal. (Camera is dead, so can't take a picture).
I also replaced the missing bushing on the carb-cable linkage (good for another 1/4" of cable length reduction).
Carb now opens fully and downshift cable is pulled completely when pedal is on the floor.
I can't wait to test it out!

I do not know about the aftermarket carbs, so a picture would be best. Perhaps its linkage is adjustable somehow?
Of course you have the 445 engine, so THAT must be the problem!

 

If you can't attach the throttle cable to the throttle linkage because you are missing the right stud you can get a set of 4 or 5 aftermarket thorttle linkage studs at the auto parts store. Edelbrock and Holley make them.

 

I made a metal bushing ...

 

Ok here are some pictures. I think half of the orig. cable bracket is missing but I am just working with what came with the car. Basically the only thing I changed out is removing the huge universal cable that was rigged up. Hopefully these pictures are clear enough. Let me know if you guys need other pictures.

About attaching the throttle linkage to the carb itself.. problem is, for now at least, the end of the throttle cable extends about an inch or so past where the stud would be on the carb. I was thinking the repo cables were just made a bit too long? I wouldn't mind putting an orig q-jet on there at least eventually if I can find one. I just need to get the car moving around so it is easier to work on

 

Well, compared to my stock setup, that cable you have is too long, or there is something about the attachment to the gas pedal. Note how on your 4th picture, the cable reaches the alternator bracket mounting hole. Mine is an inch or so back.

Can you post a picture of the pedal and its cable attachment after tying the carb end to its approximate place on the linkage?

 

I can take a picture tomorrow since it is already dark. If I put my cable to where it is supposed to be at the carb, there is some excess wire sticking out at the pedal end of the throttle cable. When I take a picture this will be more clear. I think I ordered this cable from year one. Now I am not sure how the end of this cable is supposed to actually hook to the carb. The cable I took off had an end that kind of snaped onto a stud (which you guys mentioned) but this cable just has an eyelet.

Do you have any more pictures of your engine without the air cleaner? Most I find have the air cleaner in place so I can never see how things are supposed to be hooked up.

 

You may need to get your hands on an adjustable throttle cable bracket. They are cheap.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1414/

Also get the bushing that goes in the large hole
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-1512/

and a stud and you'll be good to go.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-20-38/?rtype=10

 

Looks like the bushing I made except mine is held in place by a Jesus clip ...

 

Well I used the bushing part without the post and got a separate post to use the existing cable. The one that comes with it allows the use of a rod assembly from older vehicles.
I find that using the bushing in the large hole alleviates that "hard pedal" feeling you usually get with an aftermarket carb and keeps the pedal sweep more natural.

 

It is possible to shorted the wire, by crimping on a wire stop yourself. Ace hardware I think has them - they are made to crimp onto these steel cables. I bought some at a lawnmower shop long ago...

Unfortanately I do not know enough about the aftermarket carbs to be of any help there. Some creative engineering will be needed.
The eye of your cable is a bit small. Two repros are available, the earlier "incorrect" one is used without the 1/2" grommet and the newer correct one is used with the grommet.

Here are a couple more from Lady's archive...
In the first picture, note the location of the cable to the alternator bracket hole on the manifold...
Note the green circled area in picture 2: This is the correct style cable end, but my plastic/rubber bushing is missing. I modified a chevy one and hooked it up right a couple days ago.

 

Inline Tube, I believe has the correct throttle cable linkage setup. Give 'em a ring.
http://www.inlinetube.com/

 

Thanks for all the help everyone!! I took a couple more pictures as well. I will check out the links and see what I can come up with. I didn't know they reproduced 2 different types of throttle cables... I can see from the picture of the carb that half of my throttle cable bracket is missing. With all the info you guys have given me I can prob figure something out now.

Now if I went back to an original carb, that would be even better (since I really wanted the car stock looking as much as possible with a 455 in it). I saw that BAP has some for sale in their cat., but I know BAP has a lot of bad press on this site. I figured a 70 442 q-jet would work fine. I have a 70 F block, with 72 Ga heads. The engine itself isn't really modified from what I can tell. I just bought it as it is now. But at this point I just want to get it moving around. Thanks for all the help. Let me see what I can come up with.

 

The parts place now advertises that it has the correct throttle cables with the 1/2" hole to accomidate the bushing. I would not recomment bap, esp. not for a carb...

I am thinking the first batch of repro cables were meant to be installed w/out the bushing, as many are missing about now. The second batch is more factory style. The PP sells the bushing, but it is for chevies. However, a sharp razor blade will cut it down to a perfect fit (if you have a Q-jet.)

If you want to keep your existing cable, just get a crimp stop and shorten it. Tractor supply or Northern might have those crimp on stops, too.

 

It was hard enough to find any throttle cable lol. I did think about just using a crimp stop though too. That should be easy enough and there is a tractor supply in town.

Yeah I figured that BAP wouldn't be the way to go, even though they seem to have good stuff. But maybe I can find a 455 Q jet somewhere. I haven't seen many on ebay lately.

Thank you for the help! I can't wait to get her running again!

 

Post a wanted ad for a correct Q-jet. Even it it is just a good core, it can be rebuilt into a like new unit. I did that a while back but just have not rebuilt them.

BTW, don't do like I did and walk into Tractor supply for the first time asking for actual tractor parts. They will look at ya like you have 3 heads.

Glad to help - any time!

 

LOL I will have to keep that in mind when I go there!!!! I saw your flickr picts of your resto and wow your car is nice looking!! Well hopefully I can get this all sorted out and do some driveway driving

 

You should read up on stripe positioning ...

 

I bought the car like that. I haven't done anything to the car. I think when they came from the factory with stripes, the 442 on the fender was a inch or so over toward the door, so the stripe wouldn't hit the bottom of the wheel well trim like it is on mine

 

Why is the kickdown disconnected?


(the plug and switch by the gas pedal)

 

It has been that way. I am not sure if previous owner just didn't hook it back up or there was another reason. When the other universal cable was wired to the gas pedal, I don't think it was able to travel further back enough to even activate the kick down. I will have to see if it is even plugged in at the tranny.

After I get it running I plan on redoing all the wiring in the car. It is a mess right now. There are so many splices and kind of half assed areas that I wonder if the dash will burst into flames when I start it lol

 

Please correct the wiring BEFORE driving - thats the worst time for a dash fire!

 

Yeah I plan on doing that. I just needed to drive it a few ft after getting it running again. I think the other dash harness the guy gave me with the car is in "better" shape but I would rather just replace it all.

 

Well I ordered a bunch of stuff so we will see how things go. I did find some wire crimps at tractor supply by the way I took the carb off today to clean it up. I found that there were 2 gaskets under an incorrect adapter plate (I needed the adapter plate to go from square bore to spread bore), another gasket.. and very short studs that the carb was mounted to. I suspect that maybe this is why the car would run kind of bad, and diesel once shut off. There were prob vac leaks all over the place. So hopefully things should run A LOT BETTER once the parts arrive. It would be nice to be able to move it around using the gas pedal instead of pushing it

 

Oooh, don't let Joe see that!