Yeah thats what I am thinking and once I get the rims off im going back to the stock type of stud.

 

Looks like a 70 core support.

 

Thing is the openings for the grill has a massive gap up above these grills which I believe are 70 grills?

The 71 grills are taller at least thats how they look to me.


What do you see that makes it a 70 core support?

Because not looking forward to taking the entire clip off the car was hoping just to swap out the fenders.

 

From what I'm able to see, my guess is the entire front clip's gonna have to come off at some point anyway. You did say the plan is to restore it, right? Well now's as good a time as any!

 

I was planning on replacing the fenders from another thread a guy shows a 71 and and 72 core support the indentation on the left side on this matches the 71 in their picture I do know the hood is incorrect the grills are wrong and the fenders are from a 1970 442 W30.

I am going with a fiberglass scooped hood and the correct grill for the 71 when the fenders come off have to do some cleanup and repainting and replace some of the things the guy took off to make it a race car heater core blower and the wiper motor .

 

It's a '71 support. Here's a '72 (essentially the same as the 71 except has the small bumps for grill clearance:




And here's the core support on my '70:

 

V1 Cutty is correct. It looks like the 71 has been modified in the front for the hood tooth on a 70. The 71/72 is very different compared to a 70

 

Crawled through the back seat opening and unbolted the latch got the fuel cell removed and got a look at the trunk .

A few holes here and there deciding whether to do some patchwork or just go with a new trunk pan.

 

Need to verify 442 and extra things on the car that don’t totally make sense

 

TLDR entire thread? 4-4-2 status was verified by VIN in post #1.

 

Vin number verified it as a true 442 car .

Whomever owned it before me pieced it together with parts from a 1970 442 engine has E heads which tracks back to a 70 442 455.

My plan from the start was to put it back to as stock as possible and for the price I paid for it which was next to nothing considering what it is I expected to spend some money on getting it there.

 

The front fenders you have might be worth something if they are really ‘70 fenders as opposed to 71-72 fenders, also red fenderwells are worth bucks depending on condition….

 

Fenders are crusty at the bottom lip and the guy painted the inner engine bay parts of the wheel wells black for some reason only God knows?

 

Patches are available for the "heel" of the fender, which is a common rot area and repair. 1970 fenders aren't reproduced so usable ones are in demand and usually fetch a few dollars more than the 71/72 versions especially if the rear brace is in good condition.

The inner fender wells can be cleaned and restored. Always better than repros!

 

I'm a pack rat I keep everything but this is good to know thanks for the info.

 

No, you need to learn how to make your own topic.

 

That trunk pan has holes cut in it and is massively rusty, so a new pan, or donor pan, is the way to go.

 

Yeah that is the way I am leaning .

There is a traveling welder here in Detroit he has a plasma cutter and wire welder on his rig gonna get him out for a quote.

Also a few areas in the floor of the car I noticed today behind the drivers seat where the buckets mounts there is a rust hole there as well .

 

National parts depot deals in aftermarket muscle car parts I am going there tomorrow morning to pick up a drivers side floor pan to my knowledge the floor pans in the Cutlasses the GTOs and the Chevelle's are the same floor pans correct?

Mobile welder guy came out and gave me a $1400 quote to cut out the trunk pan and drivers floor pan and plug weld and mig weld the new panels in place.

 

How good is the rest of the body? If it's crap, you could buy a picked over parts car for its body. If it's pretty much good, then carry on like indicated.

 

BTW, that rear end is a nice score. The 71 442 would have come with a 10 bolt, and a 70 442 would have come with an O-type 12 bolt (12 bolts on the cover, but only 10 bolts on the ring gear). That is an 8.875" chevy style 12 bolt which is pretty valuable on its own ($750 - $1500 or more as it sits) depending on condition and internals (posi vs. open, gear ratio, etc) and a very strong rear. A Canadian built 70 442 may have come with the chevy 12 bolt, but I think that stopped in 69.

 

It is pretty decent going to need a drivers side quarter panel both doors rockers solid will need new fenders but I got it fairly cheap so its worth throwing a little cash at it to bring it back to life.

 

Yeah once I saw that I was sold I have not done anything with the motor yet waiting on my new ignition to get here but it has a holly double pumper on it so I think this guy might have been taking this car to the local drag strip so it might have a beefed up 455 in it.

 

Went to National parts depot and picked up the driver and passenger side floor pans got the welder coming over on Monday to start the install my sectional trunk pan kit is also suppose to be here Monday so that is where I am with the rust repair.


Also got my new wood steering wheel to replace the old melting original.


Also got the locksets and new ignition that I will be installing as I replace the steering wheel.

Once I get the ignition installed will buy a battery and try to bump the motor over to see if its free and not seized the plugs were loose so I'm assuming someone lubed up the cylinders to be safe I added a squirt of 10-30 to each cylinder.

 

You may want to yank the distributor and spin up the oil pump for a while. New oil, of course. Before turning engine over.

 

I wont try to start it i just want to see if it moves if its not seized ill be sending it into the local engine shop to be freshened up .

Another thing I want to see if its going to need a new wire harness the guy had a spaghetti pile of wires hanging from the dash to the floorboard.

 

Took the battery out of my Escape after installing the new keyset and ignition in the 442 and bumped the key it cranked over so its not froze up which is good news.
Next step will be to drain the crankcase and radiator add a new oil filter and plugs and see if she will start and run .

 

Floor has been cut out and the new pan is screwed in it will get plug welded tomorrow and then the trunk pan work begins.

 

Where is the oil dipstick suppose to be on this motor?

From all the videos I've seen they are suppose to be on the drivers side of the engine but I'm not seeing it?

Update on the 442 driver side floorpan is installed a few trouble spots in other areas patched up trunk pan replaced going to be hitting it with primer then trunk paint in the trunk area.

Also found out it has factory disc brakes on the front which saves me about a grand just have to update the discs and calipers and brake booster.

 

 

Thank you they must have pulled the dipstick housing out of the block all that is there is a hole right by the exhaust manifold.

 

Put the battery back into the 442 poured some gas down the carb she perked up for a second so she sounds like she wants to run definitely has spark ordering the gas tank this week ill get the fuel line reconnected replace the inline fuel filter see if I can Get her to stay running.

 

Hopefully it didn’t brake off at the block. Use a flashlight to confirm.

 

Looking at the diagram it shows the location of the dipstick in front of that 3rd plug on this motor the space i suspect is where the dipstick was is between those two back plugs?

 

I can't tell anything from the image you posted.

 

Again, I'm having a difficult time visualizing the image you posted, I'm not 100% if I can correctly visualize a "hole". If what I'm viewing is a hole, it "appears" to be missing the dipstick tube itself. "If" that is the case you likely need the dipstick tube & the dipstick.

Review this thread >>> Another dip stick question

 

My phone doesnt provide enough light to get a clear picture but yeah ive order the tube and the dipstick already looking at your picture its clear that whomever owned this before or when it was sitting at the salvage yard someone pulled out the dipstick tube..

Thanks for the info hoping and praying that its not broke off in the block.

 

It’s more likely the tube was broken off and the lower portion is still in the block, and you’ll need to extract it before installing a new one.

 

Would rather be optimistic and hope for the best but how does that happen in an engine bay not a lot of room in there?

 

It doesn’t take much to bend the tube and have it snap off flush with the block.