1970 442 Restoration
#82
Rick: Great meeting you at the Nationals. I did this bass ackwards and heard your stories first, then went back and found/read your thread start to finish. Great job thus far! You and Troy are really shaming me into starting a thread on my '69...
#83
Rick- Any updates?
#84
Honestly, I've been spending a lot of time with my new grand daughter. She's only going to be a little bitty thing for a short time and I really wanted to enjoy her. Something I didn't get to do with my own kids. Couple more weeks and then I'll hit it hard. Hope yours is coming along.
#85
Eh... It's moving, but snails keep passing me at my pace. 😀 Fighting a control arm bolt right now, get past that then it's sandblasting the frame and get it painted or powder coated, then start reconstruction.
Take good care of the grandbaby, I agree they are only little once. I wish I had done more with my own kids when they were little. I can not believe, I have 20 year olds.😮
Take good care of the grandbaby, I agree they are only little once. I wish I had done more with my own kids when they were little. I can not believe, I have 20 year olds.😮
#86
You'll be happy to know that I'm digging up pics of the '69 now so I can start a thread on her . My youngest turned 7 yesterday and I was taking the kids at the party for short rides in her. Didn't have a pony but the convertible was a good substitute...
#87
Heater Delete Dash Vent Blank Offs
Finally have all the interior dye work done so the dash will be going back in soon.
Since my car was originally an AC car that the P.O. switched to a non AC car I want to eliminate all the dash vents. AC cars do not have the adapter through the firewall that is needed to bring in fresh air therefore making the upper and lower vents useless. I have the center blank plate for the dash but I was wondering if they made/make blanks for the vents on each side of the dash.
Anyone know what the dash look like if you ordered the car with the heater delete option? Did the dash still have openings for the vents?
Since my car was originally an AC car that the P.O. switched to a non AC car I want to eliminate all the dash vents. AC cars do not have the adapter through the firewall that is needed to bring in fresh air therefore making the upper and lower vents useless. I have the center blank plate for the dash but I was wondering if they made/make blanks for the vents on each side of the dash.
Anyone know what the dash look like if you ordered the car with the heater delete option? Did the dash still have openings for the vents?
#88
If you can find one, the dash pad from a post coupe w/o ac has no vents in it at all. Since the posts still had vent windows they didn't have the upper left & right side vents in the pad like the holiday coupes w/o ac had, plus it didn't have a center vent block off plate. It wouldn't be correct for a holiday coupe as they used the upper vents for additional outside ventilation, the kick panels have 2 cables,1 for the lower vents in the panels 1 for the upper ones in the dash pad. You should be able to at least get the lower kick panel vents working as the air for these comes through the top cowl screen on all cars whether it has a/c or not. The drivers side on a/c cars have a bolt in block off plate the covers the cowl vent opening behind the kick panel, the pass side has the bolt in vac operated air valve,both of these can be removed & you can use the standard non a/c kick panels. I posted a dash pic of my buddy Brian's '70 W30 post
Last edited by rob1960; September 18th, 2016 at 04:44 AM.
#91
Are you sure air comes through the cowl screen on all cars? I shined a light in the cowl area and couldn't see it in the vent opening. I'll be at the shop tomorrow and look again.
Hopefully I get the dash back together tomorrow, pull the heater box out, start installing the firewall insulation and get the steering column back in. From there I'm going to fire her back up, throw in a seat and take her back to my shop. The new windshield was installed today and all new glass was ordered. The OEM glass I had was a little too scratched up for me so we are going with all new glass. I have been working on cleaning up misc. parts, sorting out trim pieces,painting small pieces and contributing to the Fusick's family's college fund. I'm going to burn that catalog when this car is done! I will take some pics tomorrow.
Thanks for your comments. It has been pretty rough at times but this forum and words of encouragement from it's members helps a lot. I'm looking forward to getting the car back to my shop so I can get it finished.
#93
Sorry to hear about your purchase. If it's any consolation I've been there. A couple of times. It seems I am always trying to turn my lemons into lemonade.
But it looks like you're getting it all sorted out. And your not giving up.
That's great!
I'm looking forward to seeing more pictures as your project moves along.
Thanks for sharing.
But it looks like you're getting it all sorted out. And your not giving up.
That's great!
I'm looking forward to seeing more pictures as your project moves along.
Thanks for sharing.
#94
Updates
Sorry for being a slacker and not posting any updates. Thanks Jim for the nudge. I'll throw these pics out for now with more to follow. The quality of the pictures and the lighting are not that good.
Car is at the body shop and will have a few imperfections touched up tomorrow. Then It comes back home for some Dynamat throughout, audio system wiring, e-brake cables installed, finishing touches to the dash, carpet, package tray etc. Debating if I should tackle the headliner myself or have a professional do it. Seats will be reassembled and bolted in after the headliner gets installed.
Dash pad painted and installed
Misc. interior parts repainted
New windshield
All new date coded glass. Woked out a deal with the parts car that I bought. Glass ended up costing me $0. Score!
New and refurbished front end pieces.
Car is at the body shop and will have a few imperfections touched up tomorrow. Then It comes back home for some Dynamat throughout, audio system wiring, e-brake cables installed, finishing touches to the dash, carpet, package tray etc. Debating if I should tackle the headliner myself or have a professional do it. Seats will be reassembled and bolted in after the headliner gets installed.
Dash pad painted and installed
Misc. interior parts repainted
New windshield
All new date coded glass. Woked out a deal with the parts car that I bought. Glass ended up costing me $0. Score!
New and refurbished front end pieces.
#95
Sorry to hear about your purchase. If it's any consolation I've been there. A couple of times. It seems I am always trying to turn my lemons into lemonade.
But it looks like you're getting it all sorted out. And your not giving up.
That's great!
I'm looking forward to seeing more pictures as your project moves along.
Thanks for sharing.
But it looks like you're getting it all sorted out. And your not giving up.
That's great!
I'm looking forward to seeing more pictures as your project moves along.
Thanks for sharing.
#98
Can't wait to mount these in the housing I ordered from Randy. a.k.a. W70442
Link to Randy's housing thread
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...me-summer.html
#99
#101
#102
I am thinking the same thing on the gauges Rick, looking forward to the results.
By the way, it is about time you updated. Putting teasers in other people's post and leaving us hanging....Well, that is just not right. Lol. 😜
On your audio, are you going for a stock, hidden aftermarket unit, or something else? I am thinking of going with a stock radio that has been gutted and upgraded with modern components from this vendor. http://www.turnswitch.com/radio1.htm
By the way, it is about time you updated. Putting teasers in other people's post and leaving us hanging....Well, that is just not right. Lol. 😜
On your audio, are you going for a stock, hidden aftermarket unit, or something else? I am thinking of going with a stock radio that has been gutted and upgraded with modern components from this vendor. http://www.turnswitch.com/radio1.htm
#103
Troy,
Just received the gauge housing. This thing is sweet. Of all the parts I've bought for this project, I feel this was money well spent. I couldn't wait to pop the gauges in when it showed up today at work.
On the stereo front....I have a kick *** Alpine system that I salvaged from my Avalon after one of the cams decided it didn't want to be in the engine anymore. I'm going to have Randy make another housing and mount it in my glove box. I'm also going to install an 1/8" jack in the gauge housing that will be the aux input to the stereo. My dash is uncut so I want to keep it that way and install a factory radio. I have an AM and a AM/FM to choose from. I considered doing the gut and upgrade on the factory radio but I have to stop spending money at some point. At some point I would like to have a factory radio outfitted with a blue tooth receiver. I think that's actually the way to go.
#104
Troy,
Just received the gauge housing. This thing is sweet. Of all the parts I've bought for this project, I feel this was money well spent. I couldn't wait to pop the gauges in when it showed up today at work.
They look good! I will probably go the same route. Although, I am thinking more of a vacuum gauge rather than the amp gauge.
On the stereo front....I have a kick *** Alpine system that I salvaged from my Avalon after one of the cams decided it didn't want to be in the engine anymore. I'm going to have Randy make another housing and mount it in my glove box. I'm also going to install an 1/8" jack in the gauge housing that will be the aux input to the stereo. My dash is uncut so I want to keep it that way and install a factory radio. I have an AM and a AM/FM to choose from. I considered doing the gut and upgrade on the factory radio but I have to stop spending money at some point. At some point I would like to have a factory radio outfitted with a blue tooth receiver. I think that's actually the way to go.
I hear you and the money, the age old question when is it good enough?
Car is looking really nice. I envy where you are at with it.
#105
Mushroomed Push Rods
Pulled these two push rods out last night. The ends on the rocker side have mushroomed and completely closed up the oil passage. Any ideas on what could have caused this?
#108
These are reconditioned E heads from Mondello's. Not sure if they were ever milled but I know John is a machinist by trade and would have taken that into account if they were. The only remaining part left over from that original "built" motor is the HEI distributor. Everything else was replaced.
#110
#111
Not saying I have any answers, just tying to help narrow location down for some of the more knowledgeable guys.
Any marks on the valve stems that looks like the rockets were not centered?
Any marks on the valve stems that looks like the rockets were not centered?
#112
I'm glad I decided to do some work at the shop today instead of watching the miserable Bengal's game.
Got a good start on installing the Dynamat all though my knees feel like hell!
Got a good start on installing the Dynamat all though my knees feel like hell!
#113
Last couple weeks I've been driving around w no backseat and package tray I notice a ton of noise comes thru from the trunk and the wheel housings, when I dynamat I will be doing those areas too, I noticed you didn't do those areas do you plan too or is there a reason not to?
#114
Last couple weeks I've been driving around w no backseat and package tray I notice a ton of noise comes thru from the trunk and the wheel housings, when I dynamat I will be doing those areas too, I noticed you didn't do those areas do you plan too or is there a reason not to?
#115
What a testimony to perseverance. I still cannot believe that strides you made from the start of the thread until now. Nice to see you kept it as a standard 442, even though you had most of the parts to make it a nice clone. If I'm not mistaken, your car will look like the one in the Oldsmobile advertisement for the W-25 hood. Keep us posted...
#116
Put some more Dynamat in and installed the trunk divider board. Test fitted the rear seat, rear panels and ash wells. Also threw the carpet in just to see how it looked. Having fun with this part of the project.
#119
Thanks Jim
Thanks Tom
Here's where I bought mine.
https://www.googleadservices.com/pag...QvhcIJA&adurl=
There are 9- 2' x 4' sheets for a total of 72/sq feet. The price was good and shipping was free. I have one sheet left but I haven't done the doors or kick panel areas yet. Probably will need a little more to finish up. I did not use any in the dash area or the fire wall area. I used the factory style jute backed rubber type insulation in that area.
Installation is pretty easy but hard on the knees. Heavy duty scissors, sharp utility knife, tape measure and straight edge are all you need to install. If you have a small roller tool (like a wall paper roller) that helps smooth it out and safes your fingers from getting sliced up. I didn't use a roller but got several cuts from smoothing it down with my hands. The foil can be razor sharp at the seems. Cut the sheets down in manageable pieces. No reason to make it more difficult than it needs to be. It's not like you will see the seems when it's all said and done.
Here's where I bought mine.
https://www.googleadservices.com/pag...QvhcIJA&adurl=
There are 9- 2' x 4' sheets for a total of 72/sq feet. The price was good and shipping was free. I have one sheet left but I haven't done the doors or kick panel areas yet. Probably will need a little more to finish up. I did not use any in the dash area or the fire wall area. I used the factory style jute backed rubber type insulation in that area.
Installation is pretty easy but hard on the knees. Heavy duty scissors, sharp utility knife, tape measure and straight edge are all you need to install. If you have a small roller tool (like a wall paper roller) that helps smooth it out and safes your fingers from getting sliced up. I didn't use a roller but got several cuts from smoothing it down with my hands. The foil can be razor sharp at the seems. Cut the sheets down in manageable pieces. No reason to make it more difficult than it needs to be. It's not like you will see the seems when it's all said and done.
#120
Spent some time putting in the radio, glove box and door, lighter, under dash gauges etc. Replaced the original gauge lenses. (Best $22 spent to date)
I've got everything electrical working except for the blower motor. The controls work and I have power to the motor lead. The problem is getting the lead attached to the motor. I can't get my hand in the right position to snap the connector on to the motor terminal. The fender stiffener that I insisted my body guy install is right in the way. He said the stiffeners are nothing but a pain in the *** and I think he might be right. If anyone has a trick to get the motor connected please share.
Also installed a trunk release button and got the power release lock wired up. The trunk light and wiring is installed and working too. I am looking for a under hood light(mercury switch type) if anyone has one for sale.
I'm real pleased with the colors and flatness/sheen of all the dash parts. Took some time figuring all that out but I think it paid off. Put in what I thought was a non working AM radio just for looks. Turns out it works great so I ordered and installed a new front dash speaker. Never thought I would be so tickled to have an AM radio in a car. Still trying to decide what to do with retrofitting a modern sound system in the car.
My buddy picked up a tilt steering column and will part with it for a reasonable price. I'm not sure I can stomach pulling everything back apart to install it though. It would need to be gone through and painted as well. Need to think a little more on that one.
I am really enjoying putting as much of this car together as I am capable of. I finally feel like I'm contributing to the restoration besides writing the checks. Hopefully when I retire I will have the health and resources to tackle more of the work that currently is over my pay grade.
Was heading to the shop today but now the Bengals are beating Pittsburgh so I might have to hydrate and watch the game for awhile.
I've got everything electrical working except for the blower motor. The controls work and I have power to the motor lead. The problem is getting the lead attached to the motor. I can't get my hand in the right position to snap the connector on to the motor terminal. The fender stiffener that I insisted my body guy install is right in the way. He said the stiffeners are nothing but a pain in the *** and I think he might be right. If anyone has a trick to get the motor connected please share.
Also installed a trunk release button and got the power release lock wired up. The trunk light and wiring is installed and working too. I am looking for a under hood light(mercury switch type) if anyone has one for sale.
I'm real pleased with the colors and flatness/sheen of all the dash parts. Took some time figuring all that out but I think it paid off. Put in what I thought was a non working AM radio just for looks. Turns out it works great so I ordered and installed a new front dash speaker. Never thought I would be so tickled to have an AM radio in a car. Still trying to decide what to do with retrofitting a modern sound system in the car.
My buddy picked up a tilt steering column and will part with it for a reasonable price. I'm not sure I can stomach pulling everything back apart to install it though. It would need to be gone through and painted as well. Need to think a little more on that one.
I am really enjoying putting as much of this car together as I am capable of. I finally feel like I'm contributing to the restoration besides writing the checks. Hopefully when I retire I will have the health and resources to tackle more of the work that currently is over my pay grade.
Was heading to the shop today but now the Bengals are beating Pittsburgh so I might have to hydrate and watch the game for awhile.