When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So, I am starting a new thread to document my 324 build. I will try to post as many pictures as I can. I am having a shop build the short block. I "could" do it, but I prefer the same folks that do the machine work to build the bottom end. I have been collecting parts for 3 months. I am now only waiting on pistons, rings, bearings, and the camshaft. I obviously had to wait for the initial machine work to be completed so I could order pistons and bearings.
I am doing an upgraded stock build, my '55 is mostly all original. I am sourcing a complete 324 here, as my 324 still runs, in fact driving it tonight to take the wife to a birthday dinner. This block and crank are still '55. The heads I will attempt to build are '56 # 10 heads. The block cleaned up at .060 over and the crankshaft at .010 on rods & mains.
Upgrades:
#10 heads: mild porting and blending, nothing too radical, hardened exhaust valve seats, all new guides and valves. I am going to attempt to reuse springs, but won't know until way later after they get assembled and can check seat pressure.
Camshaft: Camcraft 212 @.050, .495 lift HCR profile https://www.camcraftcams.com/wp-cont...s-4-12mod1.pdf
Timing Set: Ross Racing double roller with advance/retard keys
Pistons: Egge L2133 .060 over https://egge.com/product/egge-piston-set-with-pins-161/
Rear Main Seal: Best Gasket 3772 Rubber seal
Stock Stuff:
Rocker Shafts: stock, reuse everything, already cleaned and ready to go.
Pushrods: Will see if stock pushrods work after decking block and heads
Oil Pump: Have a stock cleaned up one within end play spec, but will put new gears and spring in it Thank you John for core! #6 cylinder had the worst pitting of all 8. Bored .060 over, still needs honed. Im taking to get an extra hot tank tomorrow. Here's the same #6 cylinder.
Last edited by madmax442.com; April 10th, 2024 at 04:53 PM.
The block has one of these coolant passage plugs (like a freeze plug) on each side, I just removed them both before taking the block to get cooked and hot tanked. They are there to manage coolant flow from the factory. After removing them, there were presumably what I think are factory casting rod pieces down in there. I pulled them out.
I cleaned up the rods, wire wheel, etc. Ready for recon. I ordered the small end bushings may or may not need them. The pins fit snug by hand but don't fall out.
Dropped off my pistons, rods, and bearings with my machine shop. He still has to deck the block, recon my rods, then hone in pistons. I'm basically letting him build the short block minus the cam. I told him I'll try not to bug him, but I will! Lol
So still waiting on the machine shop with my block and crankshaft. In the meantime, I found a balancer finally and sent that to Damper Dudes. I also found an oil pan from a salvage yard in Minnesota, $200 bucks but I really need one. I want to build a complete motor as much as possible without have to remove and swap over everything. Once I pull my motor and trans, I want to do a quick swap. I will have my existing 324 that is original to the car as a fairly complete spare. I could always part it out after I get sick of storing it, we will see.
Last edited by madmax442.com; April 25th, 2024 at 08:05 PM.
April 10th, 2024, 04:41 PM
