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1967 Cutlass Supreme Convertible. I am replacing the 330 with a 1969 455. A seller on eBay is selling a ram air kit for a 1968 Cutlass but fitment says does not apply for my 67. Has anyone tried this and if so, what were the modifications that were needed? Or has anyone successfully installed an aftermarket kit?
This is the wrong place to make this post but can't seem to find the appropriate place.
967 Cutlass Supreme Convertible. I am replacing the 330 with a 1969 455. A seller on eBay is selling a ram air kit for a 1968 Cutlass but fitment says does not apply for my 67. Has anyone tried this and if so, what were the modifications that were needed? Or has anyone successfully installed an aftermarket kit?
The Olds term was outside air induction. Ram-Air is a Pontiac term. The Olds term is more accurate as you won't be stuffing any more air into the engine with this. Like, said, it's negligible. True "ram air" is compression done with a supercharger.
You are not going to have good success with any under the bumper, through the bumper, through the grill OAI system as the battery will have to be relocated to the trunk to get the hose through. As your car is a convertible, you will have to put the battery in the main part of the trunk and lose a lot of space. This is one reason why there were no 66-67 convertible OAI cars.
If you find you MUST have oai, I recommend getting another hood, fiberglass aftermarket, punch a hole in it, and hang 69 H/O style "mailbox" air scoop on it and use 69 H/O style air cleaner for OAI that way. Reverting back is just put the stock air cleaner and hood back on.
If you find you MUST have oai, I recommend getting another hood, fiberglass aftermarket, punch a hole in it, and hang 69 H/O style "mailbox" air scoop on it and use 69 H/O style air cleaner for OAI that way. Reverting back is just put the stock air cleaner and hood back on.
Good "have your cake and eat it too" solution. You get whatever benefit there is to be had from OAI while avoiding butchering up a nice original car. Win-win.
There used to be a company named Ram air box. This system went through the headlights. Koda was right doesn't do much. I used it on my 1970 442 and my battery was already in the trunk. Olds was right outside air induction.
I remember those. I think they were made in Canada. Looked kinda hokey, IIRC.
About 17 or 18 years ago, Joe P, suggested I replace the power glide with a 200r4. We also installed a 2200 to 2400 RPm stall converter. It was a great suggestion and I've been happy ever since. The tranny was built to manage 350 HP and 400 lbs of torque.
In next two weeks, I'm putting in a crate 455, rated at 425 HP n 500 ft lbs of torque, 1969, 455.
I'm a Sunday driver but once in a while, lighting up the tires really helps with stress.
Any opinions on whether the 200r4 described above will be able to hold the added HP n torque or will I drop the tranny the second I punch it?
Any opinions on whether the 200r4 described above will be able to hold the added HP n torque or will I drop the tranny the second I punch it?
Depending on what you did to that transmission, maybe not the second you punch it -- it might last five or six passes. When you grenade it, plan to rebuild it to survive behind a 455.
And your original transmission was a Jetaway, not a Powerglide. There are significant differences.
I remember those. I think they were made in Canada. Looked kinda hokey, IIRC.
That's what the old school guys did was induction thru the headlights . Seen it in a Chevy and a dodge 30 years ago but they had home made stuff with hoses. That's why I bought the system and now don't use it
About 17 or 18 years ago, Joe P, suggested I replace the power glide with a 200r4. We also installed a 2200 to 2400 RPm stall converter. It was a great suggestion and I've been happy ever since. The tranny was built to manage 350 HP and 400 lbs of torque. In next two weeks, I'm putting in a crate 455, rated at 425 HP n 500 ft lbs of torque, 1969, 455. I'm a Sunday driver but once in a while, lighting up the tires really helps with stress. Any opinions on whether the 200r4 described above will be able to hold the added HP n torque or will I drop the tranny the second I punch it?
I don't think you'll kill the tranny...as long as you don't bolt on drag radials and take it to the track.
The real stress on driveline parts happens with the more traction you achieve.
I'm not a 200-4R guy (or even a 200R4) , but I don't think lighting up a pair of 235 Cooper Cobras with 500lbs of torque represents too much stress...
But I'll let the guys that know that transmission weigh in.
Without knowing exactly what was done to the transmission, it’s a roll of the dice as to how well it will hold up.
If I were building it, it would get a aftermarket forward clutch housing. The shaft on the housing is a well known weak link, and it fails without warning. You will know when it breaks because you will suddenly have 7 neutrals and park.
I would also install a Grand National servo or aftermarket equivalent, and a quality wide 2-4 band.
Assuming it has the typical street performance hydraulic upgrades, that is probably sufficient for a long life. All of this is dependent on correct TV cable geometry and adjustment of course.
I’m going to use a Ram Air box in my 67 convertible. To do this I relocated the battery to the trunk floor behind the wheel well on the driver side to maintain the spare tire location. The intake ducts are going to be mounted under the front bumper like the 68. They are going to feed the Spectre hoses that are going to be run through holes cut in front inner fender skirt shelf. Might be a little tight with the windshield washer reservoir on driver side. I got a drop base air filter plate to lower as much as possible. It’s going on a 455 and the intake is a Holley Street Dominator. Car is still under construction but I’m hoping it fits under the fiberglass 442 hood. Can’t afford a real W-30 so might as well build my own.
I’m going to use a Ram Air box in my 67 convertible. To do this I relocated the battery to the trunk floor behind the wheel well on the driver side to maintain the spare tire location. The intake ducts are going to be mounted under the front bumper like the 68. They are going to feed the Spectre hoses that are going to be run through holes cut in front inner fender skirt shelf. Might be a little tight with the windshield washer reservoir on driver side. I got a drop base air filter plate to lower as much as possible. It’s going on a 455 and the intake is a Holley Street Dominator. Car is still under construction but I’m hoping it fits under the fiberglass 442 hood. Can’t afford a real W-30 so might as well build my own.
You should probably start your own thread. Those scoops don't look like 1968 or 1969 items. What 1967 fiberglass W-30 hood are you referring to ?
You should probably start your own thread. Those scoops don't look like 1968 or 1969 items. What 1967 fiberglass W-30 hood are you referring to ?
I bought the air filter set up second hand. It came with the dual snorkel housing and two ducts. After some research found that it came from Ram Air Box. They definitely aren’t 68-69 items. I have a VFN fiberglass 1967 442 hood. That year didn’t have a W-30 hood just the air induction setup for the single Rochester Qjet. It all fit under the hood which I’m hoping my aftermarket parts will also. Now to save for the $700 red plastic front inner fender wells.
Last edited by 67CSConvert455; March 23rd, 2024 at 10:12 PM.
I was talking to a guy who put OAI on his 67 442. He had a Holley Sniper system and the air intake temp was close to 180 on hot days sitting and idling but once underway the temperature of the air going into the throttle body dropped to just a couple of degrees over ambient temp outside the car. OAI didn't ram any air but it put enough pressure inside the air cleaner hosing to upset full throttle AFRs leaning them out at high speeds with a carburator.
I have a Holley sniper on my car. I also have the under the bumper OAI setup
The only times I see elevated IAT is during heat soak. After driving it awhile and shutting it off, the IAT will be on the 150-160 range. Once you start driving the IAT cools down quickly, and within a few degrees of ambient.
March 21st, 2024, 09:19 AM
) , but I don't think lighting up a pair of 235 Cooper Cobras with 500lbs of torque represents too much stress...
