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Thanks for having me here. I'm 40yo from northeast Indiana and purchasing a 1965 Oldsmobile 98 convertible project from my grandfather. Hoping to learn more about these "boats"
Last edited by 65vert98; January 29th, 2024 at 05:10 PM.
Reason: Pics
Welcome. That is a great thing you are doing. I know Grandpa is going to appreciate it. Did he have one in the past. It doesn't matter what the condition is, we would love to see pictures. Lots of knowledge on this site and lots of good folks.
He said it ran and drove great before being parked 30 years ago, he said that all the chrome, trim, and the handles are in the car. Both bumpers leaning against the wall behind it. Not happy about the racoon or whatever that decided to help itself through the top and tearing into the seats but stuff happens. Haven't tried to see if the motor will turn yet but fingers crossed once the temps start to climb where it's more tolerable to tinker
Before you attempt to hit the magic button (ignition switch) & in preparation for the day you do, remove all spark plugs, apply (spray preferably) ~1 teaspoon of oil into each cylinder, purchase new spark plugs, distributor rotor, distributor cap, distributor condenser, contact points, spark plug wires & ignition coil wire. You want to provide yourself w/ the best chance of success right out of the gate. Let's face it, you're going to need everyone of those items even if it starts w/o them the first time (don't count on it). During this period of time (next several months) turn the crankshaft over by hand after the oil in each cylinder has sat a couple days. Turn the crankshaft by hand on several different occasions during the next several months to get that oil coating the piston rings & cylinder walls, etc. You might also use diesel fuel instead of oil if you find it cumbersome to spray oil into each cylinder. Have ready: (1) A dwell meter; (2) Timing Light & (preferably) (3) a Vacuum Gauge (to adjust carburetor A/F mixture screws) - you'll need these items to perform an engine tune-up right out of the gate.
This is the correct time to locate grandfather's original OEM 1965 Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual (CSM). That manual is your bible for all mechanical items on your car. If you don't have one - buy one now. Buy an original OEM (used) 1965 CSM - you cannot work on the car w/o it. Don't buy a brand new one (they're crappy reprints). The original is the only way to go. They also have a Body Manual you might consider. I'll provide you w/ a starting point. Good Luck.
Before you attempt to hit the magic button (ignition switch) & in preparation for the day you do, remove all spark plugs, apply (spray preferably) ~1 teaspoon of oil into each cylinder, purchase new spark plugs, distributor rotor, distributor cap, distributor condenser, contact points, spark plug wires & ignition coil wire. You want to provide yourself w/ the best chance of success right out of the gate. Let's face it, you're going to need everyone of those items even if it starts w/o them the first time (don't count on it). During this period of time (next several months) turn the crankshaft over by hand after the oil in each cylinder has sat a couple days. Turn the crankshaft by hand on several different occasions during the next several months to get that oil coating the piston rings & cylinder walls, etc. You might also use diesel fuel instead of oil if you find it cumbersome to spray oil into each cylinder. Have ready: (1) A dwell meter; (2) Timing Light & (preferably) (3) a Vacuum Gauge (to adjust carburetor A/F mixture screws) - you'll need these items to perform an engine tune-up right out of the gate.
This is the correct time to locate grandfather's original OEM 1965 Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual (CSM). That manual is your bible for all mechanical items on your car. If you don't have one - buy one now. Buy an original OEM (used) 1965 CSM - you cannot work on the car w/o it. Don't buy a brand new one (they're crappy reprints). The original is the only way to go. They also have a Body Manual you might consider. I'll provide you w/ a starting point. Good Luck.
Thanks for the link, I had actually just ordered both from rock auto knowing I'd need them for guidance but canceled the order and bought these and saved 30 bucks to put towards parts
Thanks for the link, I had actually just ordered both from rock auto knowing I'd need them for guidance but canceled the order and bought these and saved 30 bucks to put towards parts
Additionally, RA is a good place to find, double-check parts numbers (they're not always correct BTW), anyways, once you get the part numbers from RA, use those numbers to find prices elsewhere e.g. Amazon, etc. RA shipping is atrocious.
Think it would help to pull distributor and use a long blade attachment in a drill to spin the oil pump before trying to turn it over by hand also?
Sitting at a desktop PC it's always difficult to gauge anyone's experience w/ automotive capabilities. If you feel comfortable w/ it, go for it. Obviously, both of us most likely have no idea the actual state of the engine innards - would it help? Yeah. Is it necessary - can't say.
Forget to mention this twice now; but, since you brought up spinning the oil pump, it certainly won't hurt anything to drain that 30 year old oil anytime soon - even if the engine isn't warm and you're not going to get all the engine oil to the same viscosity. If it were me, I'd remove the oil pan drain plug and let that sucker drain for a week before refilling.
Welcome fellow Hoosier! Looks like quite the project you have there. That will make an awesome cruiser for sure.
Not sure if it was mentioned somewhere else, but in addition to the wonderful advice already provided, it wouldn't hurt to drain the gas tank and put some fresh gas in it, rebuild the carb and have some starter fluid on hand for that first attempt at firing it up. If it was me, while the plugs were still out, I'd check to see if it cranks over OK (which will also let you know the condition of the fuel and oil pumps). You will likely need to remove the fuel line to the carb and the oil sender to check these. Priming the oil pump prior to a powered crank is good advice (then you can leave the sender installed for the powered-crank). IIRC, it takes a small hex socket on an extension to reach the top of the oil pump (you can see the size when the distributor is removed........don't forget to mark were the rotor is pointing first), but be sure to tape the socket to the end of the extension so it doesn't come loose and fall off inside the engine. DON"T turn the crankshaft while the distributor is out otherwise you'll have to find TDC of #1 before stabbing the distributor back in.
Last edited by JohnnyBs68S; January 30th, 2024 at 06:17 AM.
Nice. The cowl tag says that the car came with the following options:
W = tinted windshield
F = four way power seat
S = power trunk release
2T = power antenna
2R = rear speaker
5F = remote outside mirror
5W = deluxe seat belts
Be advised that parts for the 1965-70 Olds full size cars are not easy to come by. These are not A-body cars and are not well-supported in the repro aftermarket. Even normal wear items like brake drums, ball joints, and steering parts are difficult to find and are expensive when you do. No one makes repro upholstery, for example. Good luck, but jump into this project with your eyes open.
The advice given is excellent. IMO priming/oiling the engine with the distributor out is worth it if you are comfortable R & R' ing the distributor and retiming it if needed. If you aren't comfortable doing it the next best option would be AFTER cranking it by HAND several turns to crank it with the starter with the ignition disconnected. Drain the oil as suggested, get a WIX oil filter and fill it with oil before installation. A 10W-30 would be a good starting point as it is toward the lower viscosity range for getting into places.
I read through the posts pretty quick so I could have missed it but be sure to turn the oil pump counter clockwise. It is one of the idiosyncrasies of the Oldsmobile engine.
Nice. The cowl tag says that the car came with the following options:
W = tinted windshield
F = four way power seat
S = power trunk release
2T = power antenna
2R = rear speaker
5F = remote outside mirror
5W = deluxe seat belts
Be advised that parts for the 1965-70 Olds full size cars are not easy to come by. These are not A-body cars and are not well-supported in the repro aftermarket. Even normal wear items like brake drums, ball joints, and steering parts are difficult to find and are expensive when you do. No one makes repro upholstery, for example. Good luck, but jump into this project with your eyes open.
Thanks for that info, I've been trying to figure out how to get that plate decoded
04D = Build Date 04 = 4th Month (April); D = Week (4th Week) 4th week of April
LAN = Lansing (Assembly Plant Location)
3747 = Assembly Plant Sequential Number
65 = Year of production
3 = Oldsmobile division
84 = Series (98)
67 = Body Type (Convertible)
Thank you to everybody so far for the great tips and the warm welcome. Is there a way to identify if it has the high or low compression 425? It does have a 2bbl carb on it. Dunno if it's the original motor or not yet. I'm definitely excited to get it cleaned out and get a full picture of what else exactly I'm dealing with. Will also get more/ better pics of it.
Regarding original Motor &/or original transmission. There exists a VIN derivative (block) stamp located on the engine just underneath (below) & slightly Left of the #1 cylinder. You'll need the VIN to associate the engine block VIN number with the VIN itself. I'm not 100% regarding the transmission VIN derivative stamp for you model year - others surely know. IIRC, there wasn't a VIN derivative stamp on the transmission until some date (model year)? I don't know, others do. I'll see if I can pass you a link and an image.
A 2bbl isn't original. That doesn't mean the engine isn't. Since the engine might not be original what are the block casting numbers above the water pump, below the intake manifold next to the oil fill tube?
HC or LC? The most definitive answer would be a picture of the piston tops via a borescope through a spark plug hole.
Last edited by Sugar Bear; January 30th, 2024 at 05:21 PM.
That car would have a TH400 "Switch Pitch" variable vane torque converter transmission from the factory. It essentially made two different converter stall speeds, a nice feature that boosted performance. It was 65-67 only, 68 kept the TH400 sans the "Switch Pitch". Its operation is controlled partly through throttle linkage that connects to black switch on the firewall, hopefully the person that installed the 2bbl made it operational.
Someone please chime in that knows for sure, IIRC the disconnected default is the lower stall speed which equals less slip/acceleration.
Sorry, but this info only applies to 1968-newer Oldsmobiles. Olds didn't use VIN derivative stamps until the Feds required it. The 1967-older cars have an engine unit number stamped on the front of the passenger side cylinder head. If one has the Protect-O-Plate it will have the engine unit number, the trans unit number, and the VIN, tying all those together. Without the P-O-P, there is no way to "match" the numbers on a 1967-older Olds.
Here's an example of a pre-68 engine unit number (the "T" suffix in this case signifies a Toronado engine).
Sorry, but this info only applies to 1968-newer Oldsmobiles. Olds didn't use VIN derivative stamps until the Feds required it. The 1967-older cars have an engine unit number stamped on the front of the passenger side cylinder head. If one has the Protect-O-Plate it will have the engine unit number, the trans unit number, and the VIN, tying all those together. Without the P-O-P, there is no way to "match" the numbers on a 1967-older Olds.
Here's an example of a pre-68 engine unit number (the "T" suffix in this case signifies a Toronado engine).
Is there a common spot where the protect o plate gets stored? He may have it I'll have to try to remember to ask him
The number on the cylinder head that Joe posted about will also tell you what compression and which carb the engine was originally equipped with.
Post it, and we can tell you more.
The info to decode these engine numbers is in the 1965 Oldsmobile Chassis Shop Manual. 1965 Oldsmobile Chassis Service Shop Repair Manual ALL MODELS ORIGINAL PRINTING | eBay
It will be the best $25 you spend on this project.
The number on the cylinder head that Joe posted about will also tell you what compression and which carb the engine was originally equipped with.
Well, in reality it will tell you about the engine that one cylinder head was bolted to when it left the factory.
I've mentioned previously that my "numbers matching" 1967 Delta 88 has a 455 in it. The one part from the original engine is the passenger side cylinder head with the engine unit number.
Sorry, but this info only applies to 1968-newer Oldsmobiles. Olds didn't use VIN derivative stamps until the Feds required it. The 1967-older cars have an engine unit number stamped on the front of the passenger side cylinder head. If one has the Protect-O-Plate it will have the engine unit number, the trans unit number, and the VIN, tying all those together. Without the P-O-P, there is no way to "match" the numbers on a 1967-older Olds.
Here's an example of a pre-68 engine unit number (the "T" suffix in this case signifies a Toronado engine).
Thanks, Joe. I wasn't sure & I suspected something might be amiss w/ my suggestions - I wasn't exactly certain. I'll do my best to tuck this one away & learn from it.
January 29th, 2024, 04:33 PM
