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Old August 14th, 2014, 11:33 AM
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Front Wheel Fitment

Hey guys,

I got a ton of help on this forum with my last engine related question, so want to see what you can do for this one.

I am ordering a set of 18x9 front wheels, and have several offset choices. -12, 0 and +12. I will need to run a 1.25 inch wheel adapter to run these, so having a hard time determining fit. A little help here?

Thanks!
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Old August 14th, 2014, 02:38 PM
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Might help to say what vehicle you are working with. Without that info, no one will be able to answer your question.
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Old August 14th, 2014, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Gooner
Hey guys,

I got a ton of help on this forum with my last engine related question, so want to see what you can do for this one.

I am ordering a set of 18x9 front wheels, and have several offset choices. -12, 0 and +12. I will need to run a 1.25 inch wheel adapter to run these, so having a hard time determining fit. A little help here?

Thanks!
Why do you have to use a wheel adapter? Get wheels that fit your car (once you tell us what it is).
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Old August 14th, 2014, 06:00 PM
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DOH! Sorry guys, brain fart. It is a 1971 Cutlass.

I am using adapters because, while there are lots of wheels that fit, the particular ones in question are the look I am going for, but are not made in 5x4.75. They do have them in 17x9 in 5x120... so that is an option (though a bit off), though I prefer the 18s.
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Old August 15th, 2014, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Gooner
DOH! Sorry guys, brain fart. It is a 1971 Cutlass.

I am using adapters because, while there are lots of wheels that fit, the particular ones in question are the look I am going for, but are not made in 5x4.75. They do have them in 17x9 in 5x120... so that is an option (though a bit off), though I prefer the 18s.
You're telling me that an aftermarket wheel vendor doesn't make a wheel with a CHEVY bolt pattern? I find that extremely difficult to believe. If it really is true, you should consider that a sign.

Your best options would be to see if you can buy the wheels undrilled and have them custom drilled at a machine shop for your bolt pattern. Failing that, you can also have your stock hubs welded and redrilled for the 5x120mm bolt circle, but that would require you to get a spare with that pattern also.

Assuming I can't talk you out of the spacers, you have a couple of fundamental problems. First, 9" wide wheels will be VERY TIGHT on the front of a 71 A-body. You will need to do some custom measuring to figure out what offset gives you the most clearance (or, more correctly, the least rubbing). Second, your current choices of wheel offset and spacer thickness all push the wheel outboard, which definitely won't fit without major rubbing.

You need a wheel with a positive offset about equal to the thickness of the spacer. A 1.25" spacer pushes the wheels outboard about 32 mm. You would need wheels with at least +32 mm offset to have even a prayer of having them fit. Do the math.
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Old August 15th, 2014, 08:00 AM
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I am not going to use the spacers. Going to go with the 17x9. So the question is a bit more simplified now. A 17x9 wheel with +12, 0 or -12. Which one will fit. I have seen lots of people running 17x9 up front... so hopefully one of those options will work.
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Old August 15th, 2014, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Gooner
I am not going to use the spacers. Going to go with the 17x9. So the question is a bit more simplified now. A 17x9 wheel with +12, 0 or -12. Which one will fit. I have seen lots of people running 17x9 up front... so hopefully one of those options will work.
The stock wheels are about zero offset. I guess you'll need to see if the rim is centered in the wheel well or not. Given my prior experience, I'm guessing you will want to move the wheel inboard a little, so the +12mm might be a better choice than zero, but I'll defer to someone who's actually fitted this size rim.
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Old August 15th, 2014, 08:08 AM
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Thanks for the reply. I think stock is a +2 offset. My gut tells me the 0 offset will be the safest bet, that should add 1 inch on each side compared to stock, which should clear... I think. I would prefer the deeper look of a -12 (negative tend to be deeper dish correct?) but fit comes first!
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Old August 15th, 2014, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Gooner
Thanks for the reply. I think stock is a +2 offset. My gut tells me the 0 offset will be the safest bet, that should add 1 inch on each side compared to stock, which should clear... I think. I would prefer the deeper look of a -12 (negative tend to be deeper dish correct?) but fit comes first!
I agree about the "deep dish" look, but there's no way those will clear. Naturally, fitment also depends on the tires, as those will be what is rubbing.
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Old August 15th, 2014, 08:11 AM
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Fair enough. I think maybe I'll do the 0 offset in the front, and the -12 in the rear. Give the rear a wider look. I know the rear is a non issue in a 9 inch wide wheel. Lots of room back there. 17x9 with a 0 offset SHOULD fit the front, but I will see if anyone else chimes in with anything.
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Old August 15th, 2014, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Gooner
Fair enough. I think maybe I'll do the 0 offset in the front, and the -12 in the rear. Give the rear a wider look. I know the rear is a non issue in a 9 inch wide wheel. Lots of room back there. 17x9 with a 0 offset SHOULD fit the front, but I will see if anyone else chimes in with anything.
I do have experience with 15x10 wheels and 275/60-15 tires on the back of a 71. These wheels did have negative offset and the tires did rub. A lot. Yeah, not the combo you are considering, but it's a data point.
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