Hello Wagon Masters,
I have the typical auto leveling package on my OCC. Par for the course, it is broke.
Messing with this on another car in the past, my experience in trying to fix the system is a exercise in futility.
I decided to put in some new load adjusting shocks with the coil spring. These are Monroe #58574



I measured before and after the install, no easy task I might add...
I measured at the centerof the wheel from the ground to the trim edge.
With the old shocks I measured 21 and 1/8".
After the new shocks were installed, measured 22 and 1/4".
Gained just under an inch.
Can anyone out there measure the same area especially if they have done a shock and/or spring change?

Will be doing the fronts tomorrow.
Current value is 28 and 1/4" to the center of the front wheel to the center of the wheel lip.

 

I would surmise that the coilover shocks have added spring rate to the system. It appears to have raised your car by 1 1/8 inches. If you put coilovers on the front, you will soon be replacing the lower suspension arms. The arm is not designed to have spring pressure on the lower shock mount. It will rip the metal, and ruin the arm.

 

I have coil overs on the rear of my ‘92 B body with KYB shocks on the front. The rear kind of rides like a rock, but I do appreciate the lack of roll when slaloming through traffic and negotiating clover leaves. Another option is to purchase Airlift bags for the springs. It’s inexpensive, retains ride height and smoother ride. I’ve actually entertained the idea of plumbing my level ride compressor into bags, other priorities prevail though. If your shocks are leaking down, ensure to remove the compressor fuse to prevent battery drain.

 

If you are going to put air bags on the rear, make sure they have a one way valve for each, or you will be aggravating the roll in the rear, because compressing the outside bag will pressurize the inside bag, and lift the inside even further.

 

Mike, I discovered this when I repaired the rear struts on my 96 98. It originally had rear load levelling and I replaced the rear struts with sturts that were supposed to keep that functionality. Unfortunately, it's been just over a year and it's already starting to sag in the rear again.

FWIW, I don't think you have to worry about new shocks damaging other suspension components. I did front struts and strut bearings; as well as, tie rod ends on my 98 too and had it aligned. I was concerned that the original lower control arm bushings would prevent it from being properly aligned. Thankfully, they were able to bring it into spec. I suppose ideally I would have replaced all the suspension components, but sometimes you just have to make do...

 

Great comments. I have pulled the fuse for the compressor. When I bought the wagon, that was one of several electrical drains that were occurring. It really annoys me that the OEM's don't maintain the service parts. I understand why as I've been in the Automotive supply business for my whole career. I don't have to like it... I digress.

Thanks for the input, Fred. These aren't true coil-overs, the coil spring is still used. The front version is a lighter spring than what is used on the rear. With that in mind, I agree that if more load is applied to the bottom of the shock mount(s) and is a good point. Not sure that would cause premature failure of the arm with this design but with a true coil over I could easily see that happening. The Dealer I bought the car from, well, they lied when they said they replaced the shocks and the spark plugs. When I pulled the shocks, the rust on the shocks told a different story. They may have replaced the shocks with a used pair. As far as the level goes afterward, it looks better, I think it was sagging a bit.

 

I had bags from Air Lift on my 87 Wagon race car and installed a new set on my frame off resto-mod 72 Cutlass S, In both examples I've always used separate lines for each bag with separate schrader valves. For racing , you want more pressure on the RH side than the LH side. That wagon launched so nice, straight and square. When you see that, it's not by accident! For my Cutlass S, I'm just using the bags for more of level control, I like having the control to tweak each side as needed. We plan on taking some long trips with it in retirement and loading the car may be uneven. Adjustment in small amounts, 5-10 lbs usually solve any LH to RH droop.

 

To correctly measure the ride height, you should measure from the center of the axle to the center of the wheel opening. I measured the front of my stock OCC, and the distance is about 16". You take all the tire and wheel variables out of the equation.