1992 cutlass wagon FWD brake question
August 25th, 2009, 12:27 AM
#1
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1992 cutlass wagon FWD brake question
hey guys i have to do the brakes on my friends cutlass wagon tomorrow, and i want to know if anyone knows what kind of bolts hold the calipers on, are they allen head or metric 6 point? my friend is very technologically dumb, so he wont know what im talking about, and i dont want to go there and look then go back and get tools
its one of these wagons...
thanks!
p.s.
i really didnt know where to put this!
its one of these wagons...
thanks!
p.s.
i really didnt know where to put this!
August 25th, 2009, 04:31 AM
#2
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Almost the same, my '99 LeSabre uses Allen bolts. Couldn't you just bring both sets of tools? A full set of Allen head socket adapters don't take up that much space, same for metric sockets. Unless you are riding a motorcycle or bike, even then....
August 25th, 2009, 01:23 PM
#3
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now all i have to bring is my ratchet, breaker bar, my 1/4 drive allens and a c clamp!
February 10th, 2010, 12:13 PM
#4
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hey guys whats up. before i go any farther the car is actually a '94 cutlass cruiser s wagon not a 92, my bad.
anyway long story short the car is mine now, and im having a bit of trouble with it. for a while before the car was mine the check engine light was on and it was the o2 sensor. now the check engine light came back on yesterday, and then later to my surprise when i turned the car on the alternator light turned on! the check engine light comes on immediately and is not intermittent, but the alternator light is, when im driving at night and the alternator light comes on the headlights get brighter... i noticed the fuel guage and the temp guage dont work so well, sadly those are the only guages
i dont even know where the diagnostic port is for this car, i know its obd 1 and getting the codes translated isnt a problem. but i was just looking at this wesite http://www.motortrend.com/cars/1994/...lls/index.html do you guys think this has anything to do with my problem? and will anyone even do this recall for me? and is it free?
anyway long story short the car is mine now, and im having a bit of trouble with it. for a while before the car was mine the check engine light was on and it was the o2 sensor. now the check engine light came back on yesterday, and then later to my surprise when i turned the car on the alternator light turned on! the check engine light comes on immediately and is not intermittent, but the alternator light is, when im driving at night and the alternator light comes on the headlights get brighter... i noticed the fuel guage and the temp guage dont work so well, sadly those are the only guages
i dont even know where the diagnostic port is for this car, i know its obd 1 and getting the codes translated isnt a problem. but i was just looking at this wesite http://www.motortrend.com/cars/1994/...lls/index.html do you guys think this has anything to do with my problem? and will anyone even do this recall for me? and is it free?
February 10th, 2010, 12:14 PM
#5
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February 10th, 2010, 12:30 PM
#6
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The diagnostic port should be under the dashboard on the driver's side. I think that's pretty universal for pre OBD2 GM.
http://chevythunder.com/aldl_terminal_location.jpg
It sounds like you have some loose wiring behind your instrument cluster, but your SES light is likely related to some other malfunction.
Also, I don't want to cause an confusion, but my 1986 FWD buick used a Torx55 head to remove the caliper bolts. I don't know if it changed back to Allen, but you never know. Let us know what they are!
http://chevythunder.com/aldl_terminal_location.jpg
It sounds like you have some loose wiring behind your instrument cluster, but your SES light is likely related to some other malfunction.
Also, I don't want to cause an confusion, but my 1986 FWD buick used a Torx55 head to remove the caliper bolts. I don't know if it changed back to Allen, but you never know. Let us know what they are!
February 10th, 2010, 01:09 PM
#7
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The data port is under the driver's side dashborad as Henry stated. If it is a GM type 1 data port you can use a paper clip to short the A and B terminals together to get the codes to flash the Check Engine Light (1995 was the first year for OBD 2 as far as I know). It will flash 1-2 three times, then it will do all of the codes three times before going back to 1-2.
You should have your alternator checked at your local auto parts store. They will do it for free.
You should have your alternator checked at your local auto parts store. They will do it for free.
February 10th, 2010, 04:24 PM
#8
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The data port is under the driver's side dashborad as Henry stated. If it is a GM type 1 data port you can use a paper clip to short the A and B terminals together to get the codes to flash the Check Engine Light (1995 was the first year for OBD 2 as far as I know). It will flash 1-2 three times, then it will do all of the codes three times before going back to 1-2.
You should have your alternator checked at your local auto parts store. They will do it for free.
You should have your alternator checked at your local auto parts store. They will do it for free.
thanks, the alternator is new, but that doesnt mean its not broken, i have a tester at my house, but its snowing so ima have to wait to test it, but if its not the alternator what would it be?
February 10th, 2010, 04:26 PM
#9
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The diagnostic port should be under the dashboard on the driver's side. I think that's pretty universal for pre OBD2 GM.
http://chevythunder.com/aldl_terminal_location.jpg
It sounds like you have some loose wiring behind your instrument cluster, but your SES light is likely related to some other malfunction.
Also, I don't want to cause an confusion, but my 1986 FWD buick used a Torx55 head to remove the caliper bolts. I don't know if it changed back to Allen, but you never know. Let us know what they are!
http://chevythunder.com/aldl_terminal_location.jpg
It sounds like you have some loose wiring behind your instrument cluster, but your SES light is likely related to some other malfunction.
Also, I don't want to cause an confusion, but my 1986 FWD buick used a Torx55 head to remove the caliper bolts. I don't know if it changed back to Allen, but you never know. Let us know what they are!
February 11th, 2010, 05:08 AM
#10
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but if its not the alternator what would it be
February 11th, 2010, 10:14 AM
#11
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hay guys, i just got back from school, and the whole drving time the battery light didnt go on, but the check engine was on, so just now i tried to check it, i jumped a to b, theres only 3 prongs, and i think the 3rd prong is for ABS, and after i had the connection jumped, i turned the key forward to run, and the check engine light did not flash... i have an 88 cadillac with obd 1 and i have had to pull numerous codes over the years, and i did it the same to my olds as i did my cadi... is there something more major wrong? i noticed the gas guage even at 3/4 lines to dip between the 1/4-3/4 range when i stop quick...
February 11th, 2010, 10:16 AM
#12
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It could be the battery as well; however, it is dangerous to speculate. Once the weather breaks check the codes and let us know what you find out. If you don't have a manual to decipher the codes you can either check on-line or go to your auto parts store and get a print out of what the codes mean.
February 11th, 2010, 10:31 AM
#13
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Even if it was older codes "stored codes" it should have flashed. Make sure your jumper wire is good and is making good contact. Just try again.
When driving the car the engine light stays on and is not flashing. Than it is an emission or "engine management" code not a mechanical fail code. More than likely a o2 sensor, TPS sensor, or purge valve. Something along those lines.
You can always disconnect the battery for a min. reconnect it than drive the car and see if the light comes back on. It could be just a stored code of something that has already been fixed.
When driving the car the engine light stays on and is not flashing. Than it is an emission or "engine management" code not a mechanical fail code. More than likely a o2 sensor, TPS sensor, or purge valve. Something along those lines.
You can always disconnect the battery for a min. reconnect it than drive the car and see if the light comes back on. It could be just a stored code of something that has already been fixed.
February 11th, 2010, 11:26 AM
#14
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Make sure it was the A & B terminals you shorted together. They are right next to each other. Sometimes it is easy to get the ALDL flipped upside down. There should be little letters in the palstic of the ALDL.
February 11th, 2010, 12:12 PM
#15
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on my cadillac they are all the way on the left next to each other, but on this one they are all the way to the right and on top of each other... i used a piece to plain wire to short them together and nuthin...
February 11th, 2010, 12:15 PM
#16
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Even if it was older codes "stored codes" it should have flashed. Make sure your jumper wire is good and is making good contact. Just try again.
When driving the car the engine light stays on and is not flashing. Than it is an emission or "engine management" code not a mechanical fail code. More than likely a o2 sensor, TPS sensor, or purge valve. Something along those lines.
You can always disconnect the battery for a min. reconnect it than drive the car and see if the light comes back on. It could be just a stored code of something that has already been fixed.
When driving the car the engine light stays on and is not flashing. Than it is an emission or "engine management" code not a mechanical fail code. More than likely a o2 sensor, TPS sensor, or purge valve. Something along those lines.
You can always disconnect the battery for a min. reconnect it than drive the car and see if the light comes back on. It could be just a stored code of something that has already been fixed.
February 11th, 2010, 04:44 PM
#17
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IDK about Pep Boys, but Autozone doesn't scan OBD1 vehicles. But, while your there, buy a book on the car.
The way I always tested alternators was to disconnect the battery while the car is running with all accessories off. Well, thats how it was done back in grandpa's day anyhow. If the car shuts off, bad alternator. Don't let it run like that for long, as it is hard on the alternator. Once the magic smoke is released, it cannot be put back in.
And x2 on disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer. My 87 Cutlass was displaying a stored code that never came back after a reset.
--Ryan
The way I always tested alternators was to disconnect the battery while the car is running with all accessories off. Well, thats how it was done back in grandpa's day anyhow. If the car shuts off, bad alternator. Don't let it run like that for long, as it is hard on the alternator. Once the magic smoke is released, it cannot be put back in.
And x2 on disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer. My 87 Cutlass was displaying a stored code that never came back after a reset.
--Ryan
February 11th, 2010, 05:35 PM
#18
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IDK about Pep Boys, but Autozone doesn't scan OBD1 vehicles. But, while your there, buy a book on the car.
The way I always tested alternators was to disconnect the battery while the car is running with all accessories off. Well, thats how it was done back in grandpa's day anyhow. If the car shuts off, bad alternator. Don't let it run like that for long, as it is hard on the alternator. Once the magic smoke is released, it cannot be put back in.
And x2 on disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer. My 87 Cutlass was displaying a stored code that never came back after a reset.
--Ryan
The way I always tested alternators was to disconnect the battery while the car is running with all accessories off. Well, thats how it was done back in grandpa's day anyhow. If the car shuts off, bad alternator. Don't let it run like that for long, as it is hard on the alternator. Once the magic smoke is released, it cannot be put back in.
And x2 on disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer. My 87 Cutlass was displaying a stored code that never came back after a reset.
--Ryan
February 13th, 2010, 12:45 PM
#23
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this car is starting to scare me, something electrical has to be bad,i was getting the morse code from the battery light again last night... and for dome reason the doors wont unlock when i put the car back into park... if it wasnt 30 degrees out id be taking a look at it...
March 10th, 2010, 05:52 PM
#27
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