When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello, I’m looking at buying a 91 custom cruiser and my inspector noted the A/C is not blowing cold. I can’t seem to find out whether this particular year had switched over from R12 to R134a yet and whether I need to do a full conversion or just replace parts will be an important factor in my offer.
Does anyone know? If it’s R12 and just needs a charge can you still get Freon in a form that allows these to run properly? I’ve read poor reviews of R12 running on recycled or blends.
I Already know what I’m in for if I need a full conversion haha, I’m in Texas so I’ve had to bite the bullet before in my 91 Dodge D150, and will eventually in my 74 cutlass supreme. But this one will be a daily driver as I am a woodworker and need something that’s not a van to run errands and do most of my small project business in.
Attaching a pic of both CC and my Cutlass 91 CC 305 74 Cutlass Supreme
It was gradual over several years, but most manufacturers had converted over to R134a by 1995. If I had to guess, I'd say this car originally took R12. I don't know how easy it is to get that now.
The car (actually both cars!) looks very nice. I've rarely seen a Custom Cruiser of that last generation in that color. It seems like 9 out 10 of these you see are white, and the 10th one is blue.
It was gradual over several years, but most manufacturers had converted over to R134a by 1995. If I had to guess, I'd say this car originally took R12. I don't know how easy it is to get that now.
The car (actually both cars!) looks very nice. I've rarely seen a Custom Cruiser of that last generation in that color. It seems like 9 out 10 of these you see are white, and the 10th one is blue.
That’s what I’m assuming about the AC
Yes absolutely I think you’re right about the colors. I checked paint codes and there was a “gun metal gray metallic” available which this one claims to be. I’m sure my inspector will note it in the report if the tags have a different paint code. But door jams and everything look good.
My hotrodded 91 was originally gray with a dark maple red interior. The outside is now maroon and still has a red interior. As a long time OCC owner, check your flyaway panels on the back edge of the rear doors. They are known to get loose, and FLY AWAY when you are driving down the road. You will not notice it, and by the time you do, it, or they, will have been run over by at least 20 or 30 cars. The replacement parts are getting extremely difficult to find. They are the same as the ones on the Roadmasters. The last pair I saw for sale on ebay were about $250. The attachment method is at best crappy. I have mine glued on with body panel adhesive.
The AC has probably been switched to 134a. As stated above, the fittings for the gauges will let you know if it was changed. If it is still R12, there is a compatible refrigerant to R12, but it is not cheap. I just wrote an update on making the AC more efficient on the impalassforum. It requires placing closed cell foam around the perimeter of the condenser, and the radiator, so that air can not bypass the condenser between the condenser and radiator without passing through the condenser. It makes your radiator work a little harder, but the AC will be more efficient.
You might consider taking the car to an AC shop and get the system evaluated. They can tell you if it is leaking, or just broke. They put a vacuum on the system, and if it does not hold it, it has a leak. They can put refrigerant in it and check that the system is working. They will also tell you what refrigerant you are using. Check the aluminum line that runs just above the suspension arm to see if it has any wear spots at the suspension arm area. That line is where the most frequent leaks occur. The line is no longer available from anybody I know of. I do not know if it can be repaired if it has a hole in it. I would guess that it could be welded, or silver soldered. The only place you can get a replacement is in a junk yard. Any 91-93 B-body has the same line. If it does not have a hole in it, make sure there is some space between it and the suspension arm. Do not put any "parts store" sealant in the system. There are tiny tubes in the evaporator that will clog, and then you are replacing the evaporator, which is the hardest job of all of the components to replace. If you need to rebuild the AC system, there are only 3 parts that you need to consider: Accumulator, compressor, and orifice tube (and O-rings). The lines, evaporator, and condensor only need a thorough cleaning. The evaporator can be done in the car, and the condensor can be removed from the car, and cleaned. Rock Auto has good pricing on compressors. You can get the accumulator and orifice tubes cheaper locally. If you can turn a wrench, you can do the labor yourself, and take it to an AC shop to have it checked and filled. It will not run if it does not have refrigerant in the system. There will be instructions about putting oil in the compressor, accumulator, and condensor with the parts. If you need someone to walk you through a rebuild, let me know.
If you have the electronic climate control, it was suggested that if you want the best performance from your AC, when you first start the car on an extremely hot day, set the temperature to 60 deg. and allow it to cool the car most quickly. Setting it at 60 closes the exterior air door, and recirculates the air instead of drawing fresh air from the outside. Once it gets cool enough, put it back to whatever is comfortable to you. It will then blend the air to give you the setting temp. I would assume that manual AC would do the same at max cool position, but it will not make the fine adjustments for your comfort zone.
It looks like they painted the cladding, and bumpers to match the body. The cladding is usually a lighter gray than the body color of that car. They came in white, black, metallic gray, sapphire blue metallic, dark maple red, and gold with gold cladding.
Last edited by Fred Kiehl; Sep 7, 2024 at 06:31 PM.
My hotrodded 91 was originally gray with a dark maple red interior. The outside is now maroon and still has a red interior. As a long time OCC owner, check your flyaway panels on the back edge of the rear doors. They are known to get loose, and FLY AWAY when you are driving down the road. You will not notice it, and by the time you do, it, or they, will have been run over by at least 20 or 30 cars. The replacement parts are getting extremely difficult to find. They are the same as the ones on the Roadmasters. The last pair I saw for sale on ebay were about $250. The attachment method is at best crappy. I have mine glued on with body panel adhesive.
The AC has probably been switched to 134a. As stated above, the fittings for the gauges will let you know if it was changed. If it is still R12, there is a compatible refrigerant to R12, but it is not cheap. I just wrote an update on making the AC more efficient on the impalassforum. It requires placing closed cell foam around the perimeter of the condenser, and the radiator, so that air can not bypass the condenser between the condenser and radiator without passing through the condenser. It makes your radiator work a little harder, but the AC will be more efficient.
You might consider taking the car to an AC shop and get the system evaluated. They can tell you if it is leaking, or just broke. They put a vacuum on the system, and if it does not hold it, it has a leak. They can put refrigerant in it and check that the system is working. They will also tell you what refrigerant you are using. Check the aluminum line that runs just above the suspension arm to see if it has any wear spots at the suspension arm area. That line is where the most frequent leaks occur. The line is no longer available from anybody I know of. I do not know if it can be repaired if it has a hole in it. I would guess that it could be welded, or silver soldered. The only place you can get a replacement is in a junk yard. Any 91-93 B-body has the same line. If it does not have a hole in it, make sure there is some space between it and the suspension arm. Do not put any "parts store" sealant in the system. There are tiny tubes in the evaporator that will clog, and then you are replacing the evaporator, which is the hardest job of all of the components to replace. If you need to rebuild the AC system, there are only 3 parts that you need to consider: Accumulator, compressor, and orifice tube (and O-rings). The lines, evaporator, and condensor only need a thorough cleaning. The evaporator can be done in the car, and the condensor can be removed from the car, and cleaned. Rock Auto has good pricing on compressors. You can get the accumulator and orifice tubes cheaper locally. If you can turn a wrench, you can do the labor yourself, and take it to an AC shop to have it checked and filled. It will not run if it does not have refrigerant in the system. There will be instructions about putting oil in the compressor, accumulator, and condensor with the parts. If you need someone to walk you through a rebuild, let me know.
If you have the electronic climate control, it was suggested that if you want the best performance from your AC, when you first start the car on an extremely hot day, set the temperature to 60 deg. and allow it to cool the car most quickly. Setting it at 60 closes the exterior air door, and recirculates the air instead of drawing fresh air from the outside. Once it gets cool enough, put it back to whatever is comfortable to you. It will then blend the air to give you the setting temp. I would assume that manual AC would do the same at max cool position, but it will not make the fine adjustments for your comfort zone.
It looks like they painted the cladding, and bumpers to match the body. The cladding is usually a lighter gray than the body color of that car. They came in white, black, metallic gray, sapphire blue metallic, dark maple red, and gold with gold cladding.
Man this amazing help!! Absolutely incredible, I truly appreciate it and I’m going to see what the dealer wants to do, if anything, while passing along your cautions about what not to do.
I’ve also already talked to my appraiser about running back to check the ac again if they charge it and have it tested for leaks so I can have him inspect that aluminum line. Without having looked yet,,do you have any suggestions/best practices for making sure it has space? Is there a place it’s best to adjust it from??
My hotrodded 91 was originally gray with a dark maple red interior. The outside is now maroon and still has a red interior. As a long time OCC owner, check your flyaway panels on the back edge of the rear doors. They are known to get loose, and FLY AWAY when you are driving down the road. You will not notice it, and by the time you do, it, or they, will have been run over by at least 20 or 30 cars. The replacement parts are getting extremely difficult to find. They are the same as the ones on the Roadmasters. The last pair I saw for sale on ebay were about $250. The attachment method is at best crappy. I have mine glued on with body panel adhesive.
The AC has probably been switched to 134a. As stated above, the fittings for the gauges will let you know if it was changed. If it is still R12, there is a compatible refrigerant to R12, but it is not cheap. I just wrote an update on making the AC more efficient on the impalassforum. It requires placing closed cell foam around the perimeter of the condenser, and the radiator, so that air can not bypass the condenser between the condenser and radiator without passing through the condenser. It makes your radiator work a little harder, but the AC will be more efficient.
You might consider taking the car to an AC shop and get the system evaluated. They can tell you if it is leaking, or just broke. They put a vacuum on the system, and if it does not hold it, it has a leak. They can put refrigerant in it and check that the system is working. They will also tell you what refrigerant you are using. Check the aluminum line that runs just above the suspension arm to see if it has any wear spots at the suspension arm area. That line is where the most frequent leaks occur. The line is no longer available from anybody I know of. I do not know if it can be repaired if it has a hole in it. I would guess that it could be welded, or silver soldered. The only place you can get a replacement is in a junk yard. Any 91-93 B-body has the same line. If it does not have a hole in it, make sure there is some space between it and the suspension arm. Do not put any "parts store" sealant in the system. There are tiny tubes in the evaporator that will clog, and then you are replacing the evaporator, which is the hardest job of all of the components to replace. If you need to rebuild the AC system, there are only 3 parts that you need to consider: Accumulator, compressor, and orifice tube (and O-rings). The lines, evaporator, and condensor only need a thorough cleaning. The evaporator can be done in the car, and the condensor can be removed from the car, and cleaned. Rock Auto has good pricing on compressors. You can get the accumulator and orifice tubes cheaper locally. If you can turn a wrench, you can do the labor yourself, and take it to an AC shop to have it checked and filled. It will not run if it does not have refrigerant in the system. There will be instructions about putting oil in the compressor, accumulator, and condensor with the parts. If you need someone to walk you through a rebuild, let me know.
If you have the electronic climate control, it was suggested that if you want the best performance from your AC, when you first start the car on an extremely hot day, set the temperature to 60 deg. and allow it to cool the car most quickly. Setting it at 60 closes the exterior air door, and recirculates the air instead of drawing fresh air from the outside. Once it gets cool enough, put it back to whatever is comfortable to you. It will then blend the air to give you the setting temp. I would assume that manual AC would do the same at max cool position, but it will not make the fine adjustments for your comfort zone.
It looks like they painted the cladding, and bumpers to match the body. The cladding is usually a lighter gray than the body color of that car. They came in white, black, metallic gray, sapphire blue metallic, dark maple red, and gold with gold cladding.
Ok the dealer/seller (it’s out of state) thinks it has not been converted, he is going to check to make sure and put a vacuum on it to test for leaks as well as inspect the aluminum line. My appraiser has agreed to go back and look at anything I ask him to so that’s good.
I already know what I’m in for if I have to convert it, with your help or through a shop, I’ve done this before. But I’m wondering what I can expect from a functional R12 system? And can you still get parts for something like that if it’s just one thing? What would be a determining factor between a fixable R12 or a conversion if it were you?
But I’m wondering what I can expect from a functional R12 system? And can you still get parts for something like that if it’s just one thing? What would be a determining factor between a fixable R12 or a conversion if it were you?
1) My experiences with R-12 systems is low 30 degree vent temperatures.
2) All the parts for the original R-12 system are available. New, used, old stock, aftermarket. There's not much - compressor, drier, expansion valve, evaporator, condenser, and hoses.
3) Cost and need/desire for originality would be the only factors for me.
1) My experiences with R-12 systems is low 30 degree vent temperatures.
2) All the parts for the original R-12 system are available. New, used, old stock, aftermarket. There's not much - compressor, drier, expansion valve, evaporator, condenser, and hoses.
3) Cost and need/desire for originality would be the only factors for me.
Thanks so much man!! I’m pretty set on and excited about this car!!
1993 is when most GMs started going to 134a. Even with a pancake compressor. Biggest tell is the "stepped" type of fitting on the back of the compressors. They won't simply interchange with previous R-12 styles. Not a big deal, but you can see it from a mile away.
There's a high chance the car still has the R12. Probably the pancake compressor too. Which are known to commonly leak around the casing o-rings and/or the main shaft seal. Usually a double-lip shaft seal fixes the issue up front, and changing the o-rings to the green HNBR ones takes care of the casing part.
1993 is when most GMs started going to 134a. Even with a pancake compressor. Biggest tell is the "stepped" type of fitting on the back of the compressors. They won't simply interchange with previous R-12 styles. Not a big deal, but you can see it from a mile away.
There's a high chance the car still has the R12. Probably the pancake compressor too. Which are known to commonly leak around the casing o-rings and/or the main shaft seal. Usually a double-lip shaft seal fixes the issue up front, and changing the o-rings to the green HNBR ones takes care of the casing part.
