jetway/hyra-matic and more
jetway/hyra-matic and more
I purchased a 56 88 last summer, and now wanting to replace gaskets so the trans does not leak and such. I have been told its a jetway if it has park on the shifter.(I have not got it on the jack stands yet to see the transmission plate yet) Is that true??? Its a Canadian car so I don't know if that makes a difference.
Also the steering is a little loose and I expect that, but how does one get it tighter.....If I take it to a shop to have it aligned can they do that???? Or do I take it to a specialty shop for this. I would also like to have the brakes adjusted, it kinds of pulls to the left when the brakes are applied. thanks
Also the steering is a little loose and I expect that, but how does one get it tighter.....If I take it to a shop to have it aligned can they do that???? Or do I take it to a specialty shop for this. I would also like to have the brakes adjusted, it kinds of pulls to the left when the brakes are applied. thanks
Rock Auto have both the jetaway and hydramatic trans pan gaskets listed
FEL-PRO Part # TOS18057 Automatic Transmission Gasket
15-bolt holes; GMC Jetaway 315; 3 Speed
Part Image
CAD$5.00
FEL-PRO Part # TOS18024 Automatic Transmission Gasket
12-bolt holes; GMC Hydramatic; 2 Speed
Part Image
CAD$6.69
Mark
P.S they also carry shop manuals that help with work to be done. Im not sure on the difference between the US and Canadian versions.
FEL-PRO Part # TOS18057 Automatic Transmission Gasket
15-bolt holes; GMC Jetaway 315; 3 Speed
Part Image
CAD$5.00
FEL-PRO Part # TOS18024 Automatic Transmission Gasket
12-bolt holes; GMC Hydramatic; 2 Speed
Part Image
CAD$6.69
Mark
P.S they also carry shop manuals that help with work to be done. Im not sure on the difference between the US and Canadian versions.
There are two adjustments that are necessary to tighten up the steering box, the worm bearing adjustment and the high spot adjustment but first the alignment should be set to specks or it's all for not.If the box is to worn this adjustment will not help and the box will need to be completely rebuilt but give it a try and see what happens.
Adjust the worm bearing first by removing(disconnecting) the pitman arm shaft. Then back the adjuster lock nut off a turn or two(this is located at the pitman end of the box) then tighten up the adjuster slightly and re check (steering wheel should move evenly with about 3/4 pound pull taken at the outer edge of the wheel) if not re adjust and try again till it does. Tighten up the lock nut and re assemble the pitman arm and remeasure the the Pull it now has, It should be about 2 lbs now all hooked up.If not the pitman shaft should be tighten up till it is in the 2 lb range.
If you can see the side of the radiator (passenger side) there should be hydraulic lines from the transmission coming out and hooking up to the radiator, that would be a Jetaway trans if not it is a Slant pan, or if you have park on the colum it's a Jetaway.
As far as brakes go first pull all the wheels(drums ) and see what going on. It maybe leaking some where and now is the time to fix what maybe a big problem later. If you are looking at old dried out brake cylinders and the lines appear original now is the time to fix/ replace them , nothing is more important than being able to stop the beast once you get it going....Just my thoughts...Tedd
Adjust the worm bearing first by removing(disconnecting) the pitman arm shaft. Then back the adjuster lock nut off a turn or two(this is located at the pitman end of the box) then tighten up the adjuster slightly and re check (steering wheel should move evenly with about 3/4 pound pull taken at the outer edge of the wheel) if not re adjust and try again till it does. Tighten up the lock nut and re assemble the pitman arm and remeasure the the Pull it now has, It should be about 2 lbs now all hooked up.If not the pitman shaft should be tighten up till it is in the 2 lb range.
If you can see the side of the radiator (passenger side) there should be hydraulic lines from the transmission coming out and hooking up to the radiator, that would be a Jetaway trans if not it is a Slant pan, or if you have park on the colum it's a Jetaway.
As far as brakes go first pull all the wheels(drums ) and see what going on. It maybe leaking some where and now is the time to fix what maybe a big problem later. If you are looking at old dried out brake cylinders and the lines appear original now is the time to fix/ replace them , nothing is more important than being able to stop the beast once you get it going....Just my thoughts...Tedd
Tedd, thanks for the help. One question about the alignment, it drives strait, and steers strait. If I was going to have it aligned before the adjustments you recommended, where does one take it to, or are most alignment shops today still able to align a classic car or do I just find a shop from the mn street rod association???
If it is pulling to the left when you apply the brakes,you need to check left front wheel for a brake fluid leak .Just a small amount of fluid leaking onto a brake lining will cause this problem. Larry
If you have a pull to the left when braking, I would be checking both sides.
Pull is caused by more friction on one side than the other.
Of course adjustment is very important with drum fronts.
Pull is caused by more friction on one side than the other.
Of course adjustment is very important with drum fronts.
I've never had a problem getting my car aligned in my area, but I also use old non corporate shops. I have never thought about it much I just drop it off and pick it up later, most have done my car before and look forward to the test drive.
...Tedd
...Tedd
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