Vintage Oldsmobiles Curved Dash, Limited Touring, Models 40, 53, 66; Series 60, 70, 90

1958 Super88 questions

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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 02:43 AM
  #1  
Lichtmann's Avatar
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From: Frankfurt Germany
1958 Super88 questions

Hi everyone

It has been a while since i introduced myself in the newbie thread.

Iīm now rebuilding my 58 371 engine.
When i got the car the engine paint was in a good condition. But i wonder that there were no "oldsmobile rocket" letters on the valve covers.
The engine obviously has gone through a rebuild once, since every piston and rod has a number stamp.

Did every 58 371 had these valve cover letters by default?
The car was assembled in South Gate, CA. Does this make a difference in labeling or any other changes?
Old Feb 6, 2014 | 06:46 AM
  #2  
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I don't know about a 58 but all 54-56's had them stenciled on them from the factory. I had a 57 years ago but for the life of me can't remember if they were there or not. Some one here who has a 371 should be able to answer your question.....Tedd
Old Feb 6, 2014 | 02:08 PM
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Numbers on the bearing caps sounds familiar, don't recall pistons though. Most rebuilders are more likely to peen the numbers of dots to represent a number rather than having their own stamp number set.
Old Feb 7, 2014 | 03:53 AM
  #4  
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Tedd

I thought about getting these stickers from Dr. Decal
http://www.drdecal.com/viewitem.php?productid=606

Stenciled means it was actually paint?

If so it might be best, cause closest to original style, if i order just one sticker and make an it inverted template for painting?


Pete

I bought the car with no known history. Pistons, rods and the area of the block where the pan bolts on are stamped with cylinder NUMBERS!

The brackets oft the rocker arm shaft was marked with dots like you describe. Seems there were more people/ shops involved over the time.
Thanks for the hint.
Iīm excited of the upcoming storys the car will tell

Last edited by Lichtmann; Feb 7, 2014 at 05:47 AM.
Old Feb 7, 2014 | 06:22 AM
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Personally, I would make the effort and hand paint mine. I lucked out and had a big can of industrial yellow on the shelf(1956 letters) and with the green to fix up the mistakes later,it looked correct-would a sticker be too perfect? Picture is from the Fusick catalog....


Last edited by pete324rocket; Feb 7, 2014 at 06:27 AM.
Old Feb 7, 2014 | 08:03 AM
  #6  
Tedd Thompson's Avatar
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Ya, but his engine will be gold and he will not have anything to trace over. Mine were hand painted over the old letters also using One Shot lettering enamel #130 which is a match to the old color but I don't think that would be the color they would use on a gold engine....Just thinking....Tedd
Old Feb 7, 2014 | 08:13 AM
  #7  
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From: Rathdrum, Idano
Picture of the lettering on a 1958 371

Old Feb 8, 2014 | 08:11 AM
  #8  
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pete

"would a sticker be too perfect?"
thought about that too. But to be honest i like perfection. And i can live without paint drips and pours like it came from the factory. This grade of originality is not on my mind.
Iīm just worried that the stickers may have a gloss that i donīt like. They are made of Vinyl and you may see that. Nobody except a geek will ever care again if its painted or glued. But me.

Not sure if i like to get them from fusick. I read another thread on this board where everybody praised the quality of marks dr. decal sticker work. They are a little more expensive but maybe fusick also get them there. Who knows.


citcapp

This is how it should look like in the near future.
Exept mine is now painted with the VHT sp404 gold enamel.
The Picture above cought my attention some months ago. Here you got a "Golden Rocket".
This is just a joke cause of the nickname of the engines, right?

Last edited by Lichtmann; Feb 8, 2014 at 08:42 AM.
Old May 11, 2014 | 05:10 AM
  #9  
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Hi

Found out that the check valve located in line before the vacuum canister and the brake booster is leaking a little.
See picture.
The steel line goes to the carb and the rubber hose to the booster and canister.
When i suck at the steel end air passes trough as it should.
But when i blow in you can hear a little bit of air passing through the valve into the rubber hose.

I didnīt open it yet cause i donīt know what iīve got to expet inside. Donīt want to have springs flying trough the room.

I canīt find a nos replacement.
Is it possible to just put in another check valve in the rubber line?
So i could use the original steel line and the valve for the look and let the new valve do the job right.

Does anybody of you have experience with that?
Any recommendations for valves?

What specifications besides flange diameter do i have to pay attention?
I think it should handle a vacuum up to 25-30" hg
Anything else?
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