First let me apologize, if this has been covered before I'm sorry , I searched threads and found only info on later model Oldsmobile's,
So as I acquaint myself with my new baby I am finding piddley little things to fix , all minor and just enough to keep me busy, on the list is the trunk light, it is in op at this time, the bulb is good so I started tracing the wire and found it to be cut , it started getting dark and lighting in my garage is poor so I I abandoned the project for this evening, but I did observe the assembly has only one wire indicating to me the body is the ground so I came in and found the wiring diagram in my 1956 Olds shop manual I noticed that the trunk light, tail lamps and license lamps all operate on the same circuit (feed line) in the diagram there is no switch of any kind, that would mean that that light would remain illuminated any time the tail lamps are on even when the trunk is closed is that correct ? I looked for a jamb switch or mercury switch and found none. seems strange to me but if that's the way it was ok, I can devise a work around with a switch but I'm trying to stay true to the design Any advise on this ?
THANKS

 

All you say is true, and it seems like it would be preferred not to operate when the lid is closed, especially considering that the generator has difficulty keeping up with electrical demands at night during slow speed driving. (It's even worse on A/C equipped vehicles.) I noticed that the diagram indicates a switch on the underhood lamp. Perhaps the trunk lamp could be arranged similarly.

 

If the trunk light and the underhood light are original to your '56, they both are grounded to the body and they both have little mercury switches. For either to work, the light switch must be pulled out, either parking lights or headlights, and the hood or trunk must be open.

I just googled 56 Olds trunk light and he's what yours should look like if it's original:

 

I recently added a retractable trouble light. It also only works with the lights on and it has a mercury switch as well.

 

Hello Solly:
If it's an original switch, it's probly a mercury type built in which you probly cannot take apart . To check if light shuts off, if you have a cell phone, just turn the camera on, start recording and with tail light son, set the camera in the trunk face-up and close the trunk. Give it a few seconds and open trunk and review what you recorded. Did that w/my 54.
Bythe way Mac's (Ecklers) has a replacement which looks very OEM, mercury switch in form of 'bulb' which slips in socket before you install bulb, Be careful removing bulb if trunk is open and light bulb pointing down, cause merc swich can slip out.
I'll try to find Mac's part # if you look to replace,
Best
John

 

Solly:
Macsautoparts.com #: 32-34793-1
Go to 'Search' Site will ask you to choose 'microsite' I had a 39 Ford, So I always choose 32-48 Ford car, Year 1939, Model Ford >Return
Approx $29.00 w/o shipping. Bit on pricey side. Get the feeling same company made for several auto makes. Took cover off one mounted on trunk lid of my '54 and the new one fit exactly down to 'dimples' to hold it in place.
John

 

update,
so I removed the factory assem. from the veh, brought it over ti my work bench and using my battery charger as power source clipped the neg clamp to the base and positive to the wire at socket nothing, so I removed the bulb (which the filament appeared to be good) and probed the center contact with my test light and as I rocked the assem back and forth to my delight the test light worked indicating the mercury switch is still good !! worked every time surprise !!! I tested the bulb the same way and although it appears ok it's not, then I went and checked the power source located at the driver side hinge area and no power, turned on the head lamps and hooray !! power so now with a good power source and a working assem. I'm baffled as to why the wire was cut ??? I'm on my way with the big germ mask (as my Granddaughter calls it) in hand to buy a # 89 bulb, I will re assemble it and see what happens, stay tuned , ps I guess there is no symbol for a mercury switch, maybe that's why the schematic doesn't show it ? as usual THANKS FOR THE HELP. also I will try the cell phone trick !!

 

Solly, I went through the same adventure with my mercury switches. Glad to hear you solved the problem. By the way, there are no other mercury switches on your '56.

Wait til you find out that some of the switch symbols are actually mechanical bowden cables, not electrical!

We're here to help.

 

update !! complete assem. back in vehicle and working perfectly !! again not sure why some one would cut the wire to a operating assem. probably will never know
next up clock light and glove box light ! not real concerned if clock works but would like it to illuminate all other dash lights work including the two ash tray lights and key hole light.

 

Good, good to hear Solly!

Ignachuck, like the idea of that 'retractable trouble light'. Where did you get it? I'd be interested in picking one up.

And Solly, if you haven't been introduced to the bowden systems, (heater, defroster, vent systems) you probably will be. If they're not difficult to pull/push and/or housing stretched/sprung, you're lucky. But each 'project ' as it comes.and it appears, based on what you have said, you haven't run into a major one.

Best,

John

 

Dad-Par- The trouble light is really cool are not hard to find. Ebay has them. "John W Hobbs Trouble Light" Make sure there is enough wire coming out of the mercury switch. I didn't notice that the wire on the first one I bought was cut off at the switch, rendering it useless.

Speaking of bowden cables: two must haves for lubing up the cables. Liquid Wrench Chain Lube (ATF will also work) and a cable luber, like this:

 

Ingachuck,
Appreciate the info!
Getting ready for work. Try to touch base w/you all later
Have a good day All !
John

 

another update another mystery, per shop manual wiring diagram the clock light is a single gray wire in line with ashtray lights and all other cluster lights, stuffed these fat old bones under the dash and found the gray wire was simply disconnected ? I plugged it in figuring a fuse would blow , after all like the trunk light there has to be some reason why it's disconnected right ? well guess what the clock illuminates and no fuse blown all seems well, The red clock wire goes directly to the fuse block and is connected with a good fuse in place so the clock simply does not work, I'm ok with that for now (project for a later date ) I know that all these old vehicles were notorious for non working clocks, glove box light turned out to be just a bulb so all illumination on the old girl now operates !! thanks for the help gents. when it cools down may tackle the wipers they work (kind of) the wiper transmission/pulley system operates with out binding so I think the vacuum motor needs some attention ,may just go with the conversion there .

 

Solly, this all brings back memories. My 56 sat in a barn in New Hampshire for 20 years before I pulled it out. It was never a "barn find" per se, because the previous owner knew it was there. He had the engine rebuilt, new exhaust, new tires, new shocks, and then he blew the Jetaway and got so pissed he put it in his barn in 1992 and left it there until I bought it in 2012. I think it might still be sitting there if I didn't rescue it. I've gone through all the "waking up an old car" adventures that you are going through now. Wiggling wires, changing bulbs, chasing wires. Good thing you have the service manual. It is invaluable. You are doing a great job by the way. Methodical troubleshooting one thing at a time is much better than just ripping things out with hedge trimmers.

The clock. Yours is either a Westclox or a Borg. Just curious, does it have a chrome center or a black center? I've never been able to figure out what models had which center or why? In any event, there are many services out there that can repair your clock. I have had great success with The ClockWorks in Minnesota. info@clockwks.com. Jerry is excellent. It will cost you about $100. to have your clock restored, if it needs a new coil. You will want to have a working clock at some point in your restoration project.

Best of luck. We're all in this together

 

It' black face , methodical is ok with me, now that I'm retired I have the time. I'm getting a 50's car education for sure. I restored a 64 BelAir and 8 years makes a big difference in how things operate and the approach and engineering ! as for the clock removal looks like it could be interesting because of the speaker set up and trim,
the knee freezer A/C that was installed while appreciated is a bit of a hindrance, so far I've been pretty lucky,

 

Solly, removing the clock is very easy. There are two phillips head screws- one next to the 3 and one next to the 9.

 

Frank by chance have you checked to see if the make of the clocks varies with the location of manufacture / assembly. It could be a location thing, California car versus Michigan thing. I'm just curious also..... Tedd

 

Solly, I sent my clock to clockworks after Frank gave me the contact information. I was very pleased with his work. Clock is working perfectly. Also I did the Newport wiper conversion and it works great. Got caught in a downpour and it would of been a wait it out time if I had the old vacuum wipers.

Frank - Thanks for the inspiration. My passenger side air vent has been stuck shut since I got the car. I just ordered the cable luber. You got me thinking about the trunk trouble light.

Rick

 

my driver side vent cable operates quite freely, the pass side operates but is sticky.I did get more 50's car educated !! I noticed when pulling out the defrost button (which operates freely) the fan comes on automatically with out having to use the fan selector switch !! kinda cool, also noticed the door on heater housing with label for winter and summer use !! I'm 66 years old now and my first job as a technician was in 1973 at a American Motors dealer and I believe the oldest car I worked on there was 63 Rambler Ambassador (Ramblers were still pretty primitive in 63) , My 57 Chevy Sedan delivery was pretty much set for racing and had been stripped of almost all creature comforts by its previous owner so most efforts on that car were limited to engine and trans so now I'm getting educated on the cars my parents drove !!
and I'm enjoying it !!!!! P/S thanks for the clock tip I never saw those screws !! i was convinced it was going to be a chore ! this is why joined thanks !!!
further exploration of the old gal may have to wait a few days it's going to be 114 today and possible 116 tomorrow. Ill have to wait for the cold snap of 106-109 !!

 

That's correct as I indicated in previous post, the cluster/dash light wires are gray as is the clock illumination, the clock itself is a red wire that goes directly to the fuse block, when it's not hotter than walking on the face of the sun in PHX I will remove the clock and see whats up, thanks to Ignachuck on the heads up on the screw
positions those little dudes are hidden well !!

 

I might as well fess up now and admit that after I put the retractable trouble light in the truck I liked it so much that I also installed one under the hood..........

I need to neaten up the wiring, but the hardest part was bending the mercury switch to operate correctly.

 

Frank, do you think solly is a candidate for afterburner lights?

 

Ok you have peaked my interest , what the hell are after burner lights , you set the hook now reel me in !!

 

Here is what became the afterburner thread. It didn't start our that way so you have to read down a little way. Frank and i had fun with this.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...e-88-a-126197/

 

Glenn, thanks for digging up the thread that started all this. It was easy and that hood ornament gets a lot of comments with the afterburners. The hood ornament is pot metal so it's easy to drill, and there's a hole in the hood in just the right place to sneak the wires through. I still have it wired to the underhood light wire so it goes on with the lights. Someday I may rewire it to the directionals. Someday........

 

That is awesome !! I'd love to do that !!When I was a kid my cousin (father of the cousin that turned me on to my current Oldsmobile ) had a 1947 Indian complete with jockey shift !! the Indian head on the front fender lit up I thought that was the coolest thing ever I'll never forget that. however lookin at the prices of some of those hood ornaments I might be hesitant to start drilling, maybe down the road I'll give it a try I really do like it.

 

so while at the cruise in the other night there was a guy there with a recently purchased 1955 88, California car very nice, I overheard a conversation between the owner and a
attendee who said he had two Oldsmobiles (both at home) a 55 4 door sedan and a 56 hardtop 98 he said that he lit the globes on both the hood and rear deck emblems of the 98 I thought that's cool too , I moved on before hearing the details ( out of respect for social distancing ) I would assume it was also miniature l.e.d's

 

more for the clock crowd , this from a 1956 Olds super 88 sales brochure , It clearly shows a clock with a Chrome center.

 

One long neglected job completed. My passenger vent is now working! Thanks Frank.
Rick

 

Solly, regarding chrome center clocks, the question we can't get an answer to is why some cars got chrome center clocks and why some got black center clocks. I've seen hundreds of pictures of '56 Olds dashboards and cannot find any model or option that specifically got a chrome center clock.

Rick, I'm glad that cable luber worked out for you. With all the bowden cables in these cars (three for my factory AC alone) I cannot tell you much time and aggravation that simple little cable luber has saved me through the years.

 

Frank,
Maybe it was a mid year supplier change ? when I worked for a major retailer our private label tires were manufactured by three companies, Kelly Springfield, Cooper and General, batteries had two companies competing for contracts Gould and Exide. I'M sure the contracts went to the lowest bidder and who could produce the required units I believe I read there were two clock manufactures Borg and Westclock ? maybe a contract expired mid year for one or the other and the new suppliers clocks graced the dash boards of our Olds, who knows !! the mystery continues P.S.we also sold a air compressor that had a complete design change mid year but retained the same stock number and SKU in our inventory, the later design was a piece of crap that had triple the return rate, the fact that the stock/SKU number didn't change played havoc with our vendors,vendor charge backs now required additional info, style 1 or style 2.

 

Solly, I do believe you hit on it. It may well be that there was a mid season change to the chrome center clock. Maybe someone got the idea to match the chrome center speedometer. I know when I first saw the chrome center clock, I got one to match the speedometer. Looks much better.

Until proven otherwise, I'm going with that. Thanks!